FJ60 "Classic Stumbling Issue" - EGR Valve?

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scottcb said:
After some other posts regarding the classic FJ60 stumbling issue that is referenced on this forum - The Classic FJ60 "Stumbling/Hesitating Acceleration/Running Problem, I pulled out my EGR valve today to clean it out and inspect it. After the very slow removal (tight area) I looked it over and cleaned it out with some spray. I am no mechanic (but play one on my landcruiser) and the valve seemed to be working fine when some vacum was applied, the diaphram seems to be working properfly and the "pin"? insides moves up and down freely with vacum.

Some background - I corrected to stumbling issue by unhooking the 2 hoses that come from the EGR, plugged them with golf tees (as recommended) and the issue was "fixed" no more stumbling issues. That is why I pulled out the EGR to see if that is the issue.

I put it all back together and hooked connected all vacum hoses as they should be. THE ISSUE RETURNED. Unhooked the 2 hoses from the EGR, plugged them and I'm running good again (except I know golf tees are not a good long term fix).

My question for anyone with experience chasing this issue down - Even though the EGR looked good, could it be bad still? Or is the EGR MOD my new suspect since the hoses that are plugged normally run to the MOD?

Thanks for the help in advance. You guys have been great in helping me run this down. I was laughing today thinking about how much I am able to do on my cruiser with no skills, just lots of reading on this forum. This addiction is great.
Click to expand...


Could you let us know what two hoses from the EGR you unhooked? Could you post a couple of pictures? Please. Thank you.
 
robd1 said:
Could you let us know what two hoses from the EGR...
Click to expand...

Only one hose needs to be tampered with. To disable the EGR system, (for testing) pull the red hose shown in the drawing below from the EGR valve only and plug the end of the hose. Leave the EGR nipple open

image.webp
 
Thanks. Lots of stumbling in 1st and 2nd gear on occasion. I’ll have to read up on the egr valve
 
Ive disabled my EGR for the stumbling and its night and day!!

Any tuning issues that need to be addressed? I thought I read that the timing needs adjusted.

I want to leave mine disabled and only enable for smog.
 
If the nipple on any vacuum diaphragm (not just EGR) is sealed off, pressure differences between the vacuum chamber and actuator might be able to move the valve a bit. Whether that air expansion/contraction is caused by cold and hot differences or changes in altitude.
It's best to leave the vacuum chamber open to atmosphere so the diaphragm is always at equilibrium.
But after saying all that, I admit I've never tested the validity of that advice in actual use (since I couldn't be bothered- easier to just yank the hose).
 
My egr valve is having the same issue as above. Capped the red hose and night and day difference. Removed the egr valve and cleaned it out. The issue is better but not gone.
has anyone tried an egr valve from say a truck or 4runner from the same period? Just a thought. I’m sure it wouldn’t bolt straight up.
 
Jasonredwood said:
My egr valve is having the same issue as above. Capped the red hose and night and day difference. Removed the egr valve and cleaned it out. The issue is better but not gone.
has anyone tried an egr valve from say a truck or 4runner from the same period? Just a thought. I’m sure it wouldn’t bolt straight up.
Click to expand...


I got good results by both replacing my EGR Vacuum Modulator with a good used one from SOR ($$), plus pulling and cleaning the actual valve.

I pulled the whole EGR assembly off and soaked the moving valve part in Seafoam (not the baffle part with the diaphragm in it) for a couple days. Others have used oven cleaner. It was a pain to get the valve and hard line off, but I was replacing my intake and exhaust manifold at the time so I would have been stupid not to take advantage of the working space.

Replacing the VM is a little pricey but easy, cleaning the valve is free but a bit of pain in the arse. You could do one or the other first and see what happens.

With the stumble, I couldn't smog it because the smog tech couldn't hold steady rpms on the dyno for long enough (90 secs?).

Also, some people who have run with their EGR bypassed for a long time will also swap the vac lines at the distributor vacuum advance - @FJ40Jim, does this make sense?
 
I put a vacuum on the egr valve and it killed the engine. I pulled the modulator and checked the filter. Doesn’t seem all that dirty but I blew out the element anyways. The modulator holds a vacuum.
maybe the egr valve is opening up too early?
there’s still a noticeable difference with a hesitation when the modulator and valve are connected.
I might just plug it when not in the smog station.
im open to other ideas though.
buying a used modulator for $70-130 to throw at the issue seems silly at the moment. Might see if I can borrow one from a local cruiser friend for a test run

9CF99928-93FC-4E95-9226-C77DEDAE0E2A.jpeg
 
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Pulling a vacuum on the EGR valve at idle will kill the engine every time. The EGR valve is never supposed to be open at idle. It is Only open during part throttle with a warm to normal operating temperature engine.
 
fjc-man said:
Pulling a vacuum on the EGR valve at idle will kill the engine every time. The EGR valve is never supposed to be open at idle. It is Only open during part throttle with a warm to normal operating temperature engine.
Click to expand...
Pulling a vacuum at idle, engine dies, does tell me that its functioning though yeah?
 
Yes, if it will kill the idle by applying vacuum, but comes back to a good idle with no vac, then the EGRV is working. The problem is the cheapo plastic EGRVM that drifts out of calibration after 30 years of living in the hot & nasty underhood environment.
It applies too much vacuum, which opens the valve too much, which causes the engine to stumble and lose vacuum, which reduces the valve opening so the engine runs a little better & vac comes back, which opens the valve too much, which cause the engine to stumble and....
 
I like the idea of using the Tee mod trick and switching the distributor vacuum lines. I think just because some of us can't hear the pinging with the T mod, there still the potential of damage occurring.
I definitely hear pinging with the Tee mod at 7* timing. Curious what the timing difference would be with switching the distributor cap lines?
 
The inside ( nearest to the distributor housing ) provides approx 15 - 16 degrees of advance and the outer diaphragm is like 6 degrees. Maybe the best thing to do before moving things around would be to take a hand held vacuum tester ( mitivac) and see if either one holds vacuum. With the dist cap off so you can see if the point plate actually moves.
 
@Jasonredwood
@FJ40Jim

The FZJ80 EGR vacuum modulator works perfectly on the FJ60 2F. It snaps right into the little spring bracket too. The only difference is the vacuum pipes are pointing at a different angle - but no biggie, just add a slightly longer piece of vacuum hose.

LUCKY for anyone who might be interested... It'still is available new from Toyota or on eBay.

Below shows a picture of it in the 60. Passed smog test fine. My EGR valve was working normally (but I went through a few to find a good used one)

Drum roll ..... PN: 25870-66011

image.webp
 
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