Fj60 BRAKE Light

[Hojack]

I've recently had my dash BRAKE light come on and stay brightly lit all the time after service to my land-cruiser. I got in at the shop and took off the e-brake and the light stayed on brightly. The carb float had a crack and filled with gas so I had the carb worked on at the shop. They also changed the fluid in the rear diff. Other than that they said nothing else was done. The brake fluid level is full. The brake fluid sensor shorted out last August which I removed after getting the BRAKE light last time. I removed the harness to the brake handle and it still is lit. I thought the BRAKE light comes on when the circuit is closed? With the e-brake off I can roll the rig with ease. I've read the light can indicate also worm brakes but how other than from low brake fluid? Also I read a bad alternator could be the cause but I'm running between 14-12 volts. A little help here would be great.

 

[Output Shaft]

If you haven't done so already, unplug the wire going to the brake master cylinder cap. See if the light turns off.

 

[Hojack]

I see the harness for the brake fluid sensor I removed in august. Is that the white vase looking container to the back right?

 

[Hojack]

 

[Output Shaft]

The little white reservoir on the right that's half full is the clutch master cylinder. That's not the issue (put some brake fluid in it).

The brake master cylinder reservoir normally has two wires connected to the cap that connects to the wiring harness. I think if they are shorted together, the brake light will go on. Make sure that isn't the case.

 

[Hojack]

If I recall when it happened in August I thought it was the brake lever but as I moved the lever the light would change intensity. With it set it would be bright red but the get half bright when releasing the e-brake. I removed the brake fluid sensor and that took care of the light. It did still work when applying the e-brake. Now it is bright red all the time. I disconnected the harness under the seat to the e-brake switch, light stays bright red.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

sounds like a wiring issue- like a back-fed ground, or a straight short to ground going to the lamp...if you can remove the lamp and ohm the 2 wires of the harness-end of the master-cap-switch and still have continuity, then your chassis or dash harness is shorted. does that make sense? With the switches removed and OPEN, and the lamp(resistor) removed and the socket OPEN, you should have NO continuity in that circuit. anything short of OL on the ohm-meter and you need to start chasing harness. they can rub on parts, clips, body seams, and when guys in shops are working on carbs and such, they might push or pull on the harness here and there. It could also just be wear from age and miles. if your circuit reads as OPEN then we'll move on...

 

[Hojack]

That's what I've been chasing most of the day. However I've been able to get my washer fluid pump working today and installed 2 rear speakers so it's not all a headache.

 

[4runner2FJ60]

I know its been a long time, but did you ever get this resolved? I am having the same issue, but switched from the cap style original to an 80 series master with Tundra brake mod, and modern style side plug for the float switch. Both ends unplugged, light stays on. I've jumped wires together on both ends as well, no change.

 

[Hojack]

I know its been a long time, but did you ever get this resolved? I am having the same issue, but switched from the cap style original to an 80 series master with Tundra brake mod, and modern style side plug for the float switch. Both ends unplugged, light stays on. I've jumped wires together on both ends as well, no change.

I never followed up on this thread. It ended up being a bad alternator.

 

[4runner2FJ60]

I never followed up on this thread. It ended up being a bad alternator.

Hey thanks, Hopefully not, but after reading more threads and the fact that mine has never worked since purchase it sounds like I have to actually start the engine to really test it, that it may turn off after 10 seconds or so. Still thinking ebrake switch is bad as there is no continuity in either position.

 

[Hojack]

Hey thanks, Hopefully not, but after reading more threads and the fact that mine has never worked since purchase it sounds like I have to actually start the engine to really test it, that it may turn off after 10 seconds or so. Still thinking ebrake switch is bad as there is no continuity in either position.

Is the BRAKE light illuminated dimly or brightly?

 

[4runner2FJ60]

Is the BRAKE light illuminated dimly or brightly?

It would go dimmish then bright when I had jumped wires together. I drove her this morning and felt stupid....the light turns off as soon as the engine starts up. I can jump both ends, MC and E-brake and light comes on. Ordered a new switch for the ebrake handle. Thanks!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

It would go dimmish then bright when I had jumped wires together. I drove her this morning and felt stupid....the light turns off as soon as the engine starts up. I can jump both ends, MC and E-brake and light comes on. Ordered a new switch for the ebrake handle. Thanks!

I never followed up on this thread. It ended up being a bad alternator.

the period correct OEM Made in Japan Spec. Part 84460-22010 lives once again , i have morphed it a bit into a Refresh and Repair kit form type thingy including the female harness side OEM connector plug , its seal and extra terminals too //


- i Swear by any TOYOTA Lubrication product or fluid being fully Synthetic , the ROCKET SCIENCE is dam real and so is the fact TOYOTA has been filling all fresh off the assembly line Vehicles Globally for many years now , simply Fully Synthetic everything .....

- its 2023 and conventual fluids and greases are WWI technology , minus the MOLY EP inner Bierfelds grease of course

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OEM TOYOTA CAP ASSY. RESERVOIR Brake Master Cylinder FJ40 BJ42 BJ60 FJ60 HJ60 BJ70 FJ62 8/80-1990 ( Includes OEM Harness Side Connector Plug & Extra Terminals ) - VintageTEqParts.com

- NOS OEM TOYOTA CAP ASSY. RESERVOIR Brake Master Cylinder - Part # 84460-22010 - FJ40 BJ42 BJ60 FJ60 HJ60 BJ70...

vintageteqparts.com

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[4runner2FJ60]

This is what I used......

Brought me to another question: is there a thread comparing old OEM parts to the new replacements? The old markings are super cool IMO. New switch is much tighter to install.