FJ60 / 62 bumper removal tips

[jonnyd42]

I'm replacing my front & rear bumpers with new OEM parts. The originals were on there and have not been off the car ever. The car has lived in CA & TX its whole life, so there is minor corrosion on the hardware. Documenting what I've learned here for folks, starting with the rear bumper:

1. Spray the nuts with penetrating oil, I did this 2x over a couple days. When you crawl under the car you can see all the hardware from the inside. There are:
   1. 6x chrome tipped bolts that thread into 17mm nuts from the top down
   2. 6x bolts that thread into 17mm nuts from the bottom up
   3. 3x 12mm nuts per end cap that hold the end caps on
2. Remove the end caps - I should have done this to start, since it allows you easier access to the outer bolts
3. Remove the 4x (2x on each side) 17mm bolts that are on the bottom of the bumper, closest to the end caps. I used an impact wrench for this. I've added a picture that points these out with red arrows.
4. Once the bolts in #3 are out, you can thread a socket extension through those holes.
   1. First, put the extension up through the bottom holes, then while it's already in the bumper, put the 17mm socket on. Pic attached.
   2. Used an impact wrench for this too.
   3. 2x of the chrome bolts came out just fine but the other two just started spinning. The trick I used to get those out is to attach a set of vice-grip style pliers to the top of the chromed bolt, have someone else hold that, and then loosen the nut by hand from underneath. Took a lot of strength & went slowly but got them all out.
5. The chromed bolts in the middle at the top are impossible to reach. The bumper is bolted with 4x bolts (2x bottom, 2x top chromed) to a metal mounting plate that then mounts to the frame above where the hitch is. This mounting plate is bolted to the frame with 2x 17mm bolts.
   1. Lower the spare
   2. Unbolt the 2x bolts, have someone lean against the bumper so it doesn't fall off

You're done with the rear!

Will update this thread with any tips on the front

 

[dmjay]

I think the most pertinent question is, where the hell did you get new bumpers from?
#envy

 

[Jamieson22]

I think the most pertinent question is, where the hell did you get new bumpers from?
#envy

Guessing you being in Australia may be the joke here but for in the US these can still be purchased from Toyota. I like World Toyota in ATL site as their prices are the cheapest I have found and they have 25% off sales often (current one runs 3 more days). With the free shipping on $75 you can get the front and rear bumper bars for $660 delivered. I know when I bought mine a couple years back could also still get all the hardware and the end caps/extensions so that may still be the case.

Some of my rear bolts were complete seized so a breaker bar and a wrench wedged up on the other end against the frame gave me the leverage to snap them.

For those middle top ones in your #5 I was able to reach them without dropping spare and leaving bracket intact by using an extension and a swivel:

While I was under it I also removed my tow hitch and had it blasted and powder coated. Also wire-wheeled the rear frame when bumper was off and hit it with some rust converting spray paint.

 

[jonnyd42]

@Jamieson22 beautiful truck! Original paint? I'm planning to wire-wheel the rear frame area too and spray it. What paint did you use, and did you prime it first?

Where do you recommend I look for a place to do the tow hitch blasting and coating? Just an auto body shop?

 

[Jamieson22]

It seems truck was resprayed at some point (is original colors though) but but not by person I bought it from nor the person they did. So if it had has been 13+ years.

I can't recall which paint for sure but think it was just Rustoleum Rust Reformer. Mine was in good shape so just cleaned the Fluid-film off it, wire wheeled and painted. Don't think you want to prime when using rust reformer type paints.

I reached out to a local powdercoating place that is luckily a few miles away. Paid $160 to have the tow hitch done. Also did my air cleaner housing and later my FJ40 wheels.

This is how both were before:

 

[SteveH]

Another method to prevent the bumper bolts (Carriage bolts, really) from spinning in their holes (after you start to loosen the nuts): clamp the bolt heads down with a c-clamp against the bumper top (protecting the finish with cloth/leather/whatever). You take a giant C clamp and hold the heads down firmly while you remove the nuts with an impact wrench. You have to offset the C-clamp so that you still have access to the nuts. It's awkward, but it works. I was able to remove the nuts and bolts with no damage to any parts. I was amazed it worked as well as it did.

Glad you got yours off and replaced, no matter the method!

 

[pdavis49]

Any interest in selling the bumpers you are taking off? I'm in Denver too.

 

[toy_tek]

Another method to prevent the bumper bolts (Carriage bolts, really) from spinning in their holes (after you start to loosen the nuts): clamp the bolt heads down with a c-clamp against the bumper top (protecting the finish with cloth/leather/whatever). You take a giant C clamp and hold the heads down firmly while you remove the nuts with an impact wrench. You have to offset the C-clamp so that you still have access to the nuts. It's awkward, but it works.

Good tip. You could probably use a block of wood on top of the bolt head so you can offset the C clamp a little bit.

 

[jonnyd42]

Any interest in selling the bumpers you are taking off? I'm in Denver too.

I actually gave away the rear one to someone today. No longer in CO, moved away this fall. My fiancee passed away (bike accident right in front of me) and I had to get out of there.

 

[jonnyd42]

Another method to prevent the bumper bolts (Carriage bolts, really) from spinning in their holes (after you start to loosen the nuts): clamp the bolt heads down with a c-clamp against the bumper top (protecting the finish with cloth/leather/whatever). You take a giant C clamp and hold the heads down firmly while you remove the nuts with an impact wrench. You have to offset the C-clamp so that you still have access to the nuts. It's awkward, but it works. I was able to remove the nuts and bolts with no damage to any parts. I was amazed it worked as well as it did.

Glad you got yours off and replaced, no matter the method!

Yup this works too, have done this on another project but didn't have big enough C clamps!