Fj40 wiper motor rebuild

[Cruiserookie]

Hey everyone. Just joined this site. I have a ‘78 land cruiser that I’m slowly working on. I drove 14 hrs and bought it from a mining camp 5 years ago. I have limited time and space to work on it unfortunately.
I took apart the wiper motor at the beginning of summer hoping to fix it, didn’t get around to it and now I’m trying to put it back together but can’t Remember how to do it LOL.
Does anyone have pictures or could help me with what goes where.... I will upload a pic of the parts.
Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Bear]

Waiting for photos to help guide you.

 

[Cruiserookie]

Waiting for photos to help guide you.[/

Waiting for photos to help guide you.

Sorry thought I had put the photo with it.

 

[Bear]

Here's some basic help to get you started:

The rotor/shaft needs to go back into the round sheetmetal case that's lined with powerful magnets.

There's a BB at both tips of this shaft--large BB on the stubby end of the shaft that goes into the case.

The ring with the 3 brushes and wires slides into the side of the cast aluminum gear housing.

You will need to fiddle with sliding the long end of the rotor shaft into the housing, thru the brushes, and lift the brushes to fit over the wound rotor as you mate the rotor casing and shaft to the aluminum housing.

Remember that there is a tiny BB at the tip of the shaft that fits into the aluminum housing.

The cutout slots in the rotor casing each allow a square nut to be slipped into the slot to accept the two hold-down screws.

Once this part of the assembly is done, the large gear fits into its spot inside the aluminum housing and meshes with the shaft's worm gear, the rotating park plate(with the segmented brass contacts) sits atop the gear, and the steel cover plate with the copper wipers is added to close the aluminum casing.

I cannot see all your screws, nuts, BBs, and fasteners--you will need to test-fit and sort thru these before assembly.

Some advice: thoroughly clean all your parts carefully and with the proper solvents. Apply non-melting grease to the gear faces and teeth; clean all electrical contacts, check brushes look good, and everything rotates smoothly without wobbling.

Next time, spend some time drawing/photographing everything as you disassemble an item, being careful to watch for unexpected teeny parts like BBs and springs. The more time you spend beforehand documenting your disassembly, will ultimately boost your knowledge and confidence doing the re-assembly.

 

[Charlie Hoch]

View attachment 1804909 Hey everyone. Just joined this site. I have a ‘78 land cruiser that I’m slowly working on. I drove 14 hrs and bought it from a mining camp 5 years ago. I have limited time and space to work on it unfortunately.
I took apart the wiper motor at the beginning of summer hoping to fix it, didn’t get around to it and now I’m trying to put it back together but can’t Remember how to do it LOL.
Does anyone have pictures or could help me with what goes where.... I will upload a pic of the parts.
Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!

I have a 78 FJ as well and my wiper motor is running real slow. Thinking about rebuilding. Was yours slow or did it not work at all? If you have rebuilt it, did you see improvement on speed?

 

[Cruiserookie]

omg sorry I checked back and didn't see these answers/questions...
it was running slow, slower and then stopped
I took it apart and of course didn't document anything, learned my lesson the hardway for sure!!
still havent gotten to it gonna work on it now with the above instructions

 

[thebigredrocker]

In case your brushes are too worn down, here's a thread where a few people like @spotcruiser chime in with info.

windshield wiper motor rebuild?

forum.ih8mud.com

I tore my 76 small wiper motor apart. Unfortunately I only have 1 photo left. It can be a bit frustrating to depress all 3 brushes so they slide into place over the armature. Just gotta hold your mouth right. Right or wrong, I oiled the felt pad in the magnetic cover. The trickiest part for me was bending the 3 tabs in the magnetic cover so that the short side of the armature shaft slides in, but is held in place by the tabs, with no wobble.

Below is the old dried out grease. Pretty sure you want to repack the gear housing shown below with a high quality dielectric grease. From the reading I did, not all dielectrics are created equal. I think you want a high silicone content

 

[Cruiserookie]

Here's some basic help to get you started:

The rotor/shaft needs to go back into the round sheetmetal case that's lined with powerful magnets.

There's a BB at both tips of this shaft--large BB on the stubby end of the shaft that goes into the case.

The ring with the 3 brushes and wires slides into the side of the cast aluminum gear housing.

You will need to fiddle with sliding the long end of the rotor shaft into the housing, thru the brushes, and lift the brushes to fit over the wound rotor as you mate the rotor casing and shaft to the aluminum housing.

Remember that there is a tiny BB at the tip of the shaft that fits into the aluminum housing.

The cutout slots in the rotor casing each allow a square nut to be slipped into the slot to accept the two hold-down screws.

Once this part of the assembly is done, the large gear fits into its spot inside the aluminum housing and meshes with the shaft's worm gear, the rotating park plate(with the segmented brass contacts) sits atop the gear, and the steel cover plate with the copper wipers is added to close the aluminum casing.

I cannot see all your screws, nuts, BBs, and fasteners--you will need to test-fit and sort thru these before assembly.

Some advice: thoroughly clean all your parts carefully and with the proper solvents. Apply non-melting grease to the gear faces and teeth; clean all electrical contacts, check brushes look good, and everything rotates smoothly without wobbling.

Next time, spend some time drawing/photographing everything as you disassemble an item, being careful to watch for unexpected teeny parts like BBs and springs. The more time you spend beforehand documenting your disassembly, will ultimately boost your knowledge and confidence doing the re-assembly.

Hey. Quick question, what does BB stand for?
Sorry newbie here

 

[thebigredrocker]

bb=ball bearing, sorta like what you'd shoot out of a Red Ryder. The shaft end is hollowed out so it can rest and rotate on a round metal ball.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Small BB on the red arrowed shaft end.
Hopefully the BB is still in the other red arrowed spot.

 

[Cruiserookie]

Small BB on the red arrowed shaft end.
Hopefully the BB is still in the other red arrowed spot.
View attachment 2005182

I have one BB. If there is supposed to be 2 then I lost one dammit. It’s fits in the red arrow shaft end but the second red arrow the screw is just a flat end. Is there supposed to be another BB at the fat end of the shaft that fits into the metal casing?
Also I have 4 washers, where do each of them go?
Thanks again.

 

[thebigredrocker]

You know, I don't think the fat end gets a bb. Pretty sure the small bb is pressed in between the adjustment screw and the drive shaft tip. Use a dab of grease to hold the bb during assembly.

If the washers are thin "wave type washers", I think they go on either side of the plastic gear. Maybe two behind and two on top, I can't recall Wish my memory was better.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Do your soldered connections look solid? I had to redo mine.

 

[Cruiserookie]

So I’m almost ready to put it all back together. It’s been a year maybe longer lol. I really don’t have the time or expertise for these kinda things but I think I might have got this one!
I tested it with the battery and by god it worked!
Just one more question. Do I fill the gear area up with dielectric grease, covering the metal ring that the two copper things slide on?
Thanks for all the help!

 

[Cruiserookie]

When I took the thing off of the cruiser all the bolts snapped, of course, so I still have to drill out the remaining bolt from the hole. Fun times!

 

[Cruiserookie]

Also should I put grease on the wiper arms inside the windshield? Is so what kind?

 

[Bluegrass40]

@Cruiserookie hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I just did some work on my wiper motor from a ‘78 (one of the magnets broke free. The motor was super slow and squeaking was it turned) and there were two BB’s. One in each end of the rotor.. if you only have one, you are missing one. The one in the gear housing end is the small one and the one at the stator end is the big one.

 

[Bluegrass40]

One question for anyone out there. How do you properly set the adjustment screw that adjusts the compression of the stator? I just snugged it up and locked the nut. I’m assuming it keeps the stator from tilting as it loads up (keeping it centered between the stator magnets).

Now that my motor is fixed I have to actually get wiper blades that are not rotten. I’m going with 12”. Seems like I could do 13 but I have seen a lot of people go with 12.....

 

[Cruiserookie]

@Cruiserookie hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I just did some work on my wiper motor from a ‘78 (one of the magnets broke free. The motor was super slow and squeaking was it turned) and there were two BB’s. One in each end of the rotor.. if you only have one, you are missing one. The one in the gear housing end is the small one and the one at the stator end is the big one.

Ah damn. That figures. I guess I could just go get another BB from a store and use that?
Any pictures you have would be great!
I’m still working on it and the tail light wiring. Not sure if it’s ever gonna get finished. Lol