FJ40 Upgrade: Offset Teraflex High Pinion D60, 14 Bolt Hybrid Rear Axle
- Thread starter Rock40
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- Thread starter
- #22
Thx, going to run 14B hubs in a 6 lug configuration. Since the Dynatrac 60 is currently 6 lug and I’ve got the beadlocks already.
Do you have reverse cut gears to go in the High pinion rear so that you drive on the drive side of the gears? I would thing the r&p would be weaker running it in the rear. Most will not run a normal 60 in the rear due to strength.
- Thread starter
- #24
Yep. Actually had to call Teraflex about that. They use HP Ford ring and pinion sets. Apparently with good success. Usually it’s a pinion oiling issue too, however Teraflex made some internal casting changes to essentially “push” oil up to the pinion, even at lower speeds.
- Thread starter
- #25
Got the main truss bits and the coil mounts sheared out today while I was doing skid plates on the M715 project
Little bit here, little bit there
Little bit here, little bit there
- Thread starter
- #26
Ugh, I friggin’ HATE mill scale and it’s a chore removing it. Spent most of the morning blasting roughly 2 dozen plates clean
Truss is taking shape…
Not the right brackets here but for reference, they are directly over the axle centerline. Definitely a goofy offset axle
Truss is taking shape…
Not the right brackets here but for reference, they are directly over the axle centerline. Definitely a goofy offset axle
- Thread starter
- #27
A little more on this.
Mocked the coil spring plates in and determined where I’ll need to notch the rear of the truss a bit. This is the passenger side mount which is actually over onto the differential casting by about 1”
The Currie TJ coils I’ve been running are about 6.5” diameter
The brackets are also centered up/down on the centerline of the axle tube. I could not find an aftermarket mount that wasn’t designed for the spring to mount at or above the upper part of the axle tube. I don’t want or need more lift, hence making this all from scratch
Mocked the coil spring plates in and determined where I’ll need to notch the rear of the truss a bit. This is the passenger side mount which is actually over onto the differential casting by about 1”
The Currie TJ coils I’ve been running are about 6.5” diameter
The brackets are also centered up/down on the centerline of the axle tube. I could not find an aftermarket mount that wasn’t designed for the spring to mount at or above the upper part of the axle tube. I don’t want or need more lift, hence making this all from scratch
- Thread starter
- #28
Tech time with TOYOTA parts:
I’m using 14 Bolt, 6 lug conversion hubs from Solid Axle Engineering. Based on my searches, there is crap for info on what to do for brakes
Most guys are modifying stock 14 bolts hubs and converting them to 6 lug. Requires a lot of machine work, plugging holes, etc. You CAN buy conversion rotors from Poly Performance but they are $200 for a set and I’ve no idea what they are actually for
So after several days of looking at rotors, I settled on rotors for a 2003-2023 4Runner. Summit had a drilled and slotted set for $125 I think. They ran absolutely true on the lathe, outside diameter is 12.56”. A common 14 Bolt disc brakes conversion rotor is 12.5” diameter. P/N: SUM-BRC-44129L and SUM-BRC-44129R
Machine notes: The center bore was 4.25” and that needed to be opened up to 4.3” to fit over the back of the Solid Axle Engineering hub. 50 thousandths isn’t bad
Rotor lug stud holes were about 5/8” and they were bored to 11/16” for the GM D60 studs I’m going to use. Not sure what lug studs Solid Axle actually drilled these for. A stock 14 Bolt stud was only going to be several thousandths press fit and would likely spin when you least wanted it to. GM D60 studs: P/N: Dorman 610-283
The Solid Axle Engineering hubs had been drilled to about .615”-.620”. Holes were also a bit out of round but not bad.
Those had to get bored out slightly to .640” to work with the knurled GM studs which are .650”, a 10 thousandths press fit is about right, last thing you want is for one to spin while torquing a lug nut.
Here it is, rotor and hub mocked up together. Studs are on order
They look like they were meant for each other
Brake calipers: I want to use GM stuff to work with standard 14 Bolt caliper brackets from RuffStuff.
Elected to bite the bullet and bought Wilwood D52 2 piston calipers, which come with semi-metallic pads. BUT, the rotor thickness is 1.110” on the Toyota rotors, a bit thin for the GM calipers which are designed for a 1.28” wide rotor. Wilwood caliper P/N: WIL-140-11290R
Discovered that Allstar Performance actually makes a caliper spacer which is .190” thick. P/N: AAF-ALL42041
So with the spacer, that effectively makes the rotor 1.3” thick which is extremely close to a stock GM 8 lug rotor commonly used on 14 Bolt disc brake swaps.
It looks like it’s going to work fantastic. Hopefully this info is helpful for someone else looking to go 6 lug with a 14 Bolt or D60. I also suspect, but haven’t taken measurements, that this setup is a HUGE brake upgrade over the stock 80 series disc brakes. Just by eying the two, the GM/Toyota blend above is going to have a much larger pad to rotor contact area.
I’m using 14 Bolt, 6 lug conversion hubs from Solid Axle Engineering. Based on my searches, there is crap for info on what to do for brakes
Most guys are modifying stock 14 bolts hubs and converting them to 6 lug. Requires a lot of machine work, plugging holes, etc. You CAN buy conversion rotors from Poly Performance but they are $200 for a set and I’ve no idea what they are actually for
So after several days of looking at rotors, I settled on rotors for a 2003-2023 4Runner. Summit had a drilled and slotted set for $125 I think. They ran absolutely true on the lathe, outside diameter is 12.56”. A common 14 Bolt disc brakes conversion rotor is 12.5” diameter. P/N: SUM-BRC-44129L and SUM-BRC-44129R
Machine notes: The center bore was 4.25” and that needed to be opened up to 4.3” to fit over the back of the Solid Axle Engineering hub. 50 thousandths isn’t bad
Rotor lug stud holes were about 5/8” and they were bored to 11/16” for the GM D60 studs I’m going to use. Not sure what lug studs Solid Axle actually drilled these for. A stock 14 Bolt stud was only going to be several thousandths press fit and would likely spin when you least wanted it to. GM D60 studs: P/N: Dorman 610-283
The Solid Axle Engineering hubs had been drilled to about .615”-.620”. Holes were also a bit out of round but not bad.
Those had to get bored out slightly to .640” to work with the knurled GM studs which are .650”, a 10 thousandths press fit is about right, last thing you want is for one to spin while torquing a lug nut.
Here it is, rotor and hub mocked up together. Studs are on order
They look like they were meant for each other
Brake calipers: I want to use GM stuff to work with standard 14 Bolt caliper brackets from RuffStuff.
Elected to bite the bullet and bought Wilwood D52 2 piston calipers, which come with semi-metallic pads. BUT, the rotor thickness is 1.110” on the Toyota rotors, a bit thin for the GM calipers which are designed for a 1.28” wide rotor. Wilwood caliper P/N: WIL-140-11290R
Discovered that Allstar Performance actually makes a caliper spacer which is .190” thick. P/N: AAF-ALL42041
So with the spacer, that effectively makes the rotor 1.3” thick which is extremely close to a stock GM 8 lug rotor commonly used on 14 Bolt disc brake swaps.
It looks like it’s going to work fantastic. Hopefully this info is helpful for someone else looking to go 6 lug with a 14 Bolt or D60. I also suspect, but haven’t taken measurements, that this setup is a HUGE brake upgrade over the stock 80 series disc brakes. Just by eying the two, the GM/Toyota blend above is going to have a much larger pad to rotor contact area.
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Well then, I need 2 of those. I just let the pistons come out that 3/16" which has worked although if you see alot of water they will rust up and freeze due to the exposed sidewall of piston. Does Allstar have a site or are they sold thru vendors ?
- Thread starter
- #30
I bought all the parts on Summit, I think the spacers were about $11 per. I also considered letting the pistons travel outwards to make up the difference, once I found the spacers I figured that was even better
IIRC it's the width difference in the rotor. I use the bolt on GM calipers ( not metric ) which are supposed to have a thicker rotor, I use a mid 80's full size blazer disc which is alomst a 1/4 " thinner. I believe there are rotors out there that would work better but thats what I had, alot of years on these brakes, no issues except the occasional froze caliper after sitting all winter. My fronts the dics are pinned to back of rotors but the rears slide over and I made centering spacers for rotors, 4 pieces of SS pipe sliced to 1/4 " then slide over wheel stud, the pipe thickness was perfect fit.
axles come in yet ?
axles come in yet ?
- Thread starter
- #32
Yeah, it’s definitely the thinner rotor width that the spacer is making up for. I don’t know exactly WHY those spacers exist but they are just what I needed for this.
My guess is there are probably quite a few rotors a guy could make work with this. I just went for the 4Runner option because they were overall the closest to what I needed and required the least amount of machine work. Plus, I needed a LITTLE Toyota on this axle build
No axles yet. Haven’t decided on whether I want to do one piece flanged axles like factory or run drive flanges.
Anyone have any input on that? Busted Knuckle Off-Road makes a nice flange and I’ve got experience with their ported hydro boost stuff but not axle parts
- Thread starter
- #33
Added some suspension link reinforcements, these are from TMR. Likely unnecessary, and fun
These are the 14B caliper brackets. Could have gone with just weld on 14B disc brake brackets but I don’t love the inability to clock the calipers later on
These were set up for 3.5” axle tubes, mine are 3.125” with a .375” wall. Hence the roughly 3/16” thick rings that needed to be added to get the ID right
Tacked both outer link brackets in. Currently my lower links are set at 8.5° With that in mind I set the link brackets at 10° which provides a bit more of a ramp for sliding over stuff. The Johnny Joints won’t care
These are the 14B caliper brackets. Could have gone with just weld on 14B disc brake brackets but I don’t love the inability to clock the calipers later on
These were set up for 3.5” axle tubes, mine are 3.125” with a .375” wall. Hence the roughly 3/16” thick rings that needed to be added to get the ID right
Tacked both outer link brackets in. Currently my lower links are set at 8.5° With that in mind I set the link brackets at 10° which provides a bit more of a ramp for sliding over stuff. The Johnny Joints won’t care
- Thread starter
- #35
Much appreciated, sure makes for slow going tho
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one issue. Not sure if you ever have ever tried to use a rotor to press lug studs into, but I have and I had VERY bad luck with it. With the softer metal vs the hub. They all spun and I had to stick the mig welder back there to tack them to the rotor so I could get the wheel off - it's the #1 reason why I abandoned my FZJ80 / FJ60 hybrid brake setup
- Thread starter
- #37
I haven’t, no. But the lug studs I’m using have a non-knurled shoulder where they pass through the rotor. The knurled part will have the 10 thousandth press fit and that is JUST in the 14B hub. What I’ve got designed will (hopefully) work just like an OEM setup
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Ok awesome, just like the front of +8/80 Cruisers. That will be great. Sorry I misunderstood.
- Thread starter
- #39
Yes, exactly. That’s the hope at least. And having to tack weld the lug studs to the rotor to get the tire off sounds UGLY. Yikes
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
This thread and your other one are inspiration for me to make better welds, and to try to tig what I would normally mig.
Beautiful welds, man.
Beautiful welds, man.
