1976 FJ40 South American Spec “Restored” in Colombia, fixed in USA. (1 Viewer)

[78Cruzr]

Awesome! Glad all that worked out for you! This is exactly how I test harnesses...

Great idea drawing the wire routing on to the board!

 

[Coolerman]

I have a 4x8 board for each year range up to 1980. That way I can have several projects going on at once... Drawing the circuits on the board itself makes building and troubleshooting so much easier than trying to read the schematics.

 

[Ackcruisers]

Thanks @Coolerman and glad this thread has been useful to some. I’m still challenged by the parking brake switch.

1/Checked the switch for continuity using multimeter set to ohms and it works as it should. (The switch is NOS).

2/Checked the wires; 2 RW wires at switch connector and they are good.

3/The bulb in socket was tested and it works

4/Bulb socket was tested and it works. The LR wire is the power the RW goes to switch.

I attached alligator clips to the socket for power and a test light with ground to the switch and the light goes off as it should when switch is activated.

Any suggestions? I must be missing something...images 1,2 and 3 below.


IMAGE 1

IMAGE 2

IMAGE 3

 

[Ackcruisers]

Thought it would be helpful to post images of all the OEM wiring clamps I’m using to install the harness. These are still available from Toyota and also SOR.

Here is link

 

[Ackcruisers]

I was missing something....After tracing the RW wires to the Parking Brake Switch and out towards the drivers side cowl. The RW wire goes all the way to a 3 pin latching green connector (Image below). When I grounded the RW wire from the connector, the light and switch worked perfectly. The FSM wiring diagram did not show this as my harness is specific to CA. The green 3 pin latching connects to a sub harness that includes a R wire that connects to the two low fluid/pressure sensors located on bottom of the dual reservoir master cylinder. The other wires, GW and G on the three pin latching connector, go to the fuel cut solenoid and the thermo sensor.

 

[Coolerman]

I see you figured it out. The low brake pressure system and the park brake on circuit, share the same bulb. The low brake sensors themselves provide the ground to one side of the bulb, and the other side of the bulb is connected to +12V. If the park brake switch is on, the bulb lights. So when testing, you have to physically ground the low brake sensor connector. Once in the truck and these connectors are connected they will be grounded through the brake master cylinder.

 

[Ackcruisers]

That explains it. Thanks for the details. It all makes sense now. Today, I needed to remove the Vintage Air heater/AC unit to access the old fire hazard and make way for my restored harness. The old wiring is a classic example of a hacked up harness. In the removal process most wires were just twisted together.

If anyone is interested in buying a hacked up wiring harness from Colombia let me know.

 

[Ackcruisers]

It’s nice to have all the old wiring out of the truck. Was able to build an entirely new rear harness. My OEM harness used colors that did not correspond with any diagrams. Using wire from @Coolerman, made a new harness images below. There were not many images of rear harness for 1976 so posting it here.

 

[Ackcruisers]

Full electrical system install tomorrow of my restored 1975 cowl harness (images below) #82210-90344, rear harness #82420-90315-R, all sub harnesses, regulator, switches, relays, cables, grounds, 60180 cluster, coil, alternator, electronic igniter etc... Will be posting details of the install process. If anyone has any images of where the plastic clamps are oriented ( #90463-10336 and #90463-10335) that would be helpful.

While the harness restoration process is 95% OEM, I did make a few modifications, including: ground wire for tail lights as noted in prior post, vintage air tied into heater blower LR wire , moved oil pressure sensor wire from drivers side to passenger side and finally the wiper washer reservoir/motor to passenger side.

The main battery B+ cable to starter motor needed to be upgraded. I chose a beefy modern cable from VintageTeqParts (here is link) For me, this was so much more heavy duty than what was included OEM with the truck. Because this was connecting to a gear reduction starter #28100-60070 I thought it would be better. I’m really happy with how well it is made and how it looks installed. It’s a little longer than stock and it was offset perfectly to bend and connect to starter motor bolt. Well done @ToyotaMatt...here it is in the truck...

Here is image of wiring harness - front, rear and wiper sub harness.

Plastic Clamps

 

[Ackcruisers]

I’ve got the harness in truck but trying to line up everything correctly. Is it just me, or are the welded pliable metal brackets attached to the firewall frustrating to work with?... I think I’m close to the correct orientation but had question about the flasher #8190-30040. The mounting location is on firewall inside by left foot. It requires two 6MM x 1.0 bolts. In order to connect it to where I have the harness, I needed to make a 6” pigtail. Makes me think I do not have harness positioned correctly. Can anyone verify on a 1975 or 1976?

 

[Dizzy]

I’ve got the harness in truck but trying to line up everything correctly. Is it just me, or are the welded pliable metal brackets attached to the firewall frustrating to work with?... I think I’m close to the correct orientation but had question about the flasher #8190-30040. The mounting location is on firewall inside by left foot. It requires two 6MM x 1.0 bolts. In order to connect it to where I have the harness, I needed to make a 6” pigtail. Makes me think I do not have harness positioned correctly. Can anyone verify on a 1975 or 1976?
View attachment 2278559

It goes above the computer on my February '75 Federal Spec. It doesn't mount on the tub, but rather that black bracket for the clutch master.

 

[Ackcruisers]

View attachment 2278973

It goes above the computer on my February '75 Federal Spec. It doesn't mount on the tub, but rather that black bracket for the clutch master.

Thank you very much for posting the image. Very helpful. That explains why I needed to add the pigtail. On my 1976 Colombian truck, the pedal bucket is different from US spec trucks. My bucket does not have a flush surface or bolt holes to mount the flasher to.

 

[Ackcruisers]

Made progress this weekend but still have a way to go...For those looking to install the OEM blue and white plastic clips. They are super simple to install. You just need to loosen the fender bolts and tuck the clip tab under the seam then tighten to hold clip and thus the harness in place.

Connected the Temp Sensor and Fuel Solenoid and used FlexoPET fire retardant high heat braided sleeving shield and heat shrink tubing to protect both the YG and B wires. Have no idea what Toyota did in 1976 but it only made sense to use modern sleeving In this area.

Cut out inspection lamp socket.

 

[Ackcruisers]

Installed Voltage Regulator purchased from VintageTEQParts. Thanks @ToyotaMatt.

The choke, hazard, brake warning indicator light and wiper switch Installed.

 

[lelandEOD]

I love a happy ending!

 

[Ackcruisers]

Installed cowl drain hoses and grommets purchase from City Racer. The hose used was water/heater hose 1/2”. Needed that size to fit over the cowl drain. This made it difficult to get through the grommets. @Racer65 sells cowl drain hoses for earlier trucks made out of silicone but not for my ‘76 FJ40. What was the OEM hose size and material? Boiling the grommets made it easier to work with as the rubber grommets are rigid.

 

[Ackcruisers]

Routed rear harness in truck. Happy to report it fit exactly as the one Toyota made. When making your own, do not omit the split plastic loom in specific sections around the rear section of rear harness. They add durability.

Installed OEM L and R tail light assembly. #81560-60110 and #81550-60190.

OEM clip for rear section of rear harness to frame.

Used marine grade (Ancor Marine) clamps on front section of rear harness to secure harness to inside frame rail. Used 8MM x 1.25 bolts from Overland Metric. The powder coating required re tapping frame screw holes.

 

[Ackcruisers]

My truck had zero grommets. While installing harness took time to install all grommets. Also installed the OEM pedal boot purchased from VintageTEQParts. There are clips on the assembly rod that you just pry/push down and off to install boot.

 

[Ackcruisers]

Installed new OEM front turn signal assembly #81520-69035 (LH) and #81510-69035 ((RH). These are very well built compared to the aftermarket ones that came with my truck. Be sure to buy the rubber grommets that the base of lamp assembly sits on. City Racer sells them. Thanks @BeerM3 for suggestion of using paint on tabs to mark hole location. For those drilling new holes to accomodate plastic tabs, be sure to set starter hole bit to the outside of the mark. Also, when drilling, do so at same angle as tabs as they go into fender. Last, use hole punch for grommet as they are not pre cut.

 

[Dizzy]

I ran mine with an extra ground from the lamp's internal chassis screw to the firewall (driver's), or passenger fender, then to firewall.