I meant rear axle mounted. Shoulda been more clear.
FJ40 Rear Axle Research
- Thread starter Mr. Notorious
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I meant rear axle mounted. Shoulda been more clear.
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Hmm looks like I'm going to be starting a spreadsheet and calling some places for different axle choices. Right now I need to figure out going centered or offset rear.
For a centered Minitruvk-hybrid axle, how much wider than a FJ40 axle is a minitruck axle? If I was to go this route I wouldn't want to go as far as makeing the tubes longer and getting custom shafts...
Speaking of offset. Which is closer to stock FJ40 offset, 60 or 80? The above wordage was a little confusing. Can one or the other possibly work with a centered rear transfercase?
So I take it there's no easy way to ditch the big ol' drum on the back of the t-case for the ebrake...
I assume a front 80 series is the same width as a rear? I kinda like the idea of 80 series front and rear. Full float rear, stronger frontbirfs, etc. I figure after I sell my FJ40 front and rear's, I can afford to match my gears and dump in another ARB for the front. Are the 93+ front's still lock out hubs?
60 series never came with discs or full floaters?
I appriciate all the help and input. Thank you guys.
For a centered Minitruvk-hybrid axle, how much wider than a FJ40 axle is a minitruck axle? If I was to go this route I wouldn't want to go as far as makeing the tubes longer and getting custom shafts...
Speaking of offset. Which is closer to stock FJ40 offset, 60 or 80? The above wordage was a little confusing. Can one or the other possibly work with a centered rear transfercase?
So I take it there's no easy way to ditch the big ol' drum on the back of the t-case for the ebrake...
I assume a front 80 series is the same width as a rear? I kinda like the idea of 80 series front and rear. Full float rear, stronger frontbirfs, etc. I figure after I sell my FJ40 front and rear's, I can afford to match my gears and dump in another ARB for the front. Are the 93+ front's still lock out hubs?
60 series never came with discs or full floaters?
I appriciate all the help and input. Thank you guys.
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Hmm looks like I'm going to be starting a spreadsheet and calling some places for different axle choices. Right now I need to figure out going centered or offset rear.
Speaking of offset. Which is closer to stock FJ40 offset, 60 or 80? The above wordage was a little confusing. Can one or the other possibly work with a centered rear transfercase?
So I take it there's no easy way to ditch the big ol' drum on the back of the t-case for the ebrake...
I assume a front 80 series is the same width as a rear? I kinda like the idea of 80 series front and rear. Full float rear, stronger frontbirfs, etc. I figure after I sell my FJ40 front and rear's, I can afford to match my gears and dump in another ARB for the front. Are the 93+ front's still lock out hubs?
60 series never came with discs or full floaters?
I appriciate all the help and input. Thank you guys.
I guess there isn't an easy way to get rid of the drum other than having it machined off.
91+ 80 series have drive plates. It is possible to install lock outs on them, from what I understand.
80 fronts, especially with e-lockers are spendy.
The front axle on an 80 is the same width as the rear.
I'll get a pic up showing the tires sticking out tomorrow.
manafre disc e brake conversion
specter off road sells non usa fj60 full floaters for around 500$ when they have em.
no disc that I know on the fj60's though Downey sells ffloater bracket kits for the mid 80's chevy disc conversion
no disc that I know on the fj60's though Downey sells ffloater bracket kits for the mid 80's chevy disc conversion
Eskimo
SILVER Star
Again.. if you use <'86 parts, it's the same width. >'86, it's 3" wider.
The 80 axle is nearest to being centered in the rear.
Width is similar, but that's where the similarities end. smaller R&P. Birfs are no stronger once you get some cromo stuff into either, and the selection of steering parts sucks.
I'd agree with the strength after mods. Stock the 80 is considerably bigger.
You also get the high pinion with the 80. steering stuff might be an issue. It's got pretty good stuff on it stock.
That being said I kept the stock front under mine. The cost of an 80 front can buy a lot of mods. If you plan on putting an ARB in it, then the cost of keeping an e-locker vs the cost of an ARB starts getting a lot closer.
The 80 axle is about 2 inches closer to center than the 55 axle was. On a 40 it might make a difference.
Stick out and 74 birf vs. 94 birf
You also get the high pinion with the 80. steering stuff might be an issue. It's got pretty good stuff on it stock.
That being said I kept the stock front under mine. The cost of an 80 front can buy a lot of mods. If you plan on putting an ARB in it, then the cost of keeping an e-locker vs the cost of an ARB starts getting a lot closer.
The 80 axle is about 2 inches closer to center than the 55 axle was. On a 40 it might make a difference.
Stick out and 74 birf vs. 94 birf
Eskimo
SILVER Star
IMO, the high pinion on the 80 is a liability. Because of weight transfer, you need the strength most in reverse, and that's where a reverse cut gearset is weaker.
Want pinion clearance? Do a cut & turn... gave me a 6" clearance gain under the pinion flange.
