Gm saginaw if you have the V8. Cheap, easy, strong, been done thousands of times, lots of parts and adapters around. Scout works best for the FJ55. Mini truck set up is easy and almoist painless but weaker. Good if you have a stock motor. No welding. Drawback is that it retains all of that sloppy stock linkage. Fj60 set up requires expensive parts and the same sort of tie rod/steering shaft issues as the Scout or GM Saginaw. I'd go GM Saginaw.
FJ40 power steering options?
- Thread starter eelson
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
The older 4-turn boxes are getting pretty hard to find out here :-[
Saw the later fj40 power steering set up on ebay and am one of the bidders on it.
Dumb question-----what models was the 4 turn gm box used on. Have to go hunting for some. Some were 4 bolt mount and some 3 bolt mount werent they?
Dumb question-----what models was the 4 turn gm box used on. Have to go hunting for some. Some were 4 bolt mount and some 3 bolt mount werent they?
The only valuable part of the factory setup on ebay is the steering box. The pump isn't that special and I'm pretty sure the bracket shown is an alternator bracket - not the PS pump bracket.
In order to retrofit factory 79+ FJ40 power steering you'll need: the pump bracket (and smog pump bracket if you retain your smog), the steering box, the pump, the lines, the cooler, and the steering column. The column for the factory power steering setup is about an inch shorter than the manual steering column since the power steering box is about an inch longer than the manual box.
This is all assuming you have a 1/79 or later engine so you can mount the pump bracket.
In order to retrofit factory 79+ FJ40 power steering you'll need: the pump bracket (and smog pump bracket if you retain your smog), the steering box, the pump, the lines, the cooler, and the steering column. The column for the factory power steering setup is about an inch shorter than the manual steering column since the power steering box is about an inch longer than the manual box.
This is all assuming you have a 1/79 or later engine so you can mount the pump bracket.
Most sags are the 3 1/8" piston variety. The 3 1/2" piston unit is even stronger. Something like 12% more effective pressure at the same hydraulic pressure. I got mine from a J20 pick-up. With the dual pulley GM pump I have a very strong, quick reacting steering setup that is outperforming everything but the ram assist type. Best of all it was cheap. Good manors on the road and great performance off road.
All the tech articles say to put your alternator on the passenger side to make room for the ps pump on the drivers side. The alternator brackets I have found to do this only work with the long water pump, and I have the short pump. Where can I find the right bracket without changing out water pumps? Or, can I just keep my alternator where it is and use longer hoses to my ps pump on the passenger side?
[quote author=fj40mayo link=board=1;threadid=6523;start=msg53789#msg53789 date=1066847176]
All the tech articles say to put your alternator on the passenger side to make room for the ps pump on the drivers side. The alternator brackets I have found to do this only work with the long water pump, and I have the short pump. Where can I find the right bracket without changing out water pumps? Or, can I just keep my alternator where it is and use longer hoses to my ps pump on the passenger side?
[/quote]
The TBI I bought came out of a '93 Caprice that had about 6' of metal tubing for the steering line. (Not sure if it was pressure or return line.) It ran back and forth across the front just below the radiator, I assume for cooling. You could incorporate that.
All the tech articles say to put your alternator on the passenger side to make room for the ps pump on the drivers side. The alternator brackets I have found to do this only work with the long water pump, and I have the short pump. Where can I find the right bracket without changing out water pumps? Or, can I just keep my alternator where it is and use longer hoses to my ps pump on the passenger side?
[/quote]
The TBI I bought came out of a '93 Caprice that had about 6' of metal tubing for the steering line. (Not sure if it was pressure or return line.) It ran back and forth across the front just below the radiator, I assume for cooling. You could incorporate that.
Screw everything and go full hydro 
. But seriously go Sag. For the tie rod use some hefty DOM tubing. That's what I have. If you want heims and adjustibility, just weld a jam nut on the end of the DOM tubing. Then place another jam nut on your heim. Make sure you get both a right hand thread heim and a left hand thread heim, this will allow for any adjustments.
. But seriously go Sag. For the tie rod use some hefty DOM tubing. That's what I have. If you want heims and adjustibility, just weld a jam nut on the end of the DOM tubing. Then place another jam nut on your heim. Make sure you get both a right hand thread heim and a left hand thread heim, this will allow for any adjustments.
[quote author=dingo link=board=1;threadid=6523;start=msg53969#msg53969 date=1066866398]
ya i want to do the mini conversion but dont feel like moving the alt, why cant i leave it and mount my pump on the passenger side off of the engine hook bolts? Or is it better to move the alt?
[/quote]
How are you going to get PS fluid all the way over to the pump?
All you need is a alternator bracket off a 2f with the PS side alternator, or you can install a york on board air at the same time, bracket costs $70 from www.kccruisers.com, and Yorks are cheap at junkyards or Napa.
ya i want to do the mini conversion but dont feel like moving the alt, why cant i leave it and mount my pump on the passenger side off of the engine hook bolts? Or is it better to move the alt?
[/quote]
How are you going to get PS fluid all the way over to the pump?
All you need is a alternator bracket off a 2f with the PS side alternator, or you can install a york on board air at the same time, bracket costs $70 from www.kccruisers.com, and Yorks are cheap at junkyards or Napa.
I've had GM saginaw on my 40 for over 14 years without problems. Only thing that ever failed was a belt. Every other problem was carnage related not design.
JasonH---Thanks for the info; dont think I will bid again and the price was $400 + last night. Had it planned for an early truck---either 67 or 72.
Would like the details on spotting the more desired sag boxes. Have several small yards that are very reasonable on parts, really cheap for cash. Picked up a mini set up couple of weeks ago for $40 for the box, pump and whatever I wanted of the system. How do I spot the 3 1/2 vs 3 1/8; and the 4 turn other than turning it from lock to lock?
Part numbers useful? Any info would be a help.
Would like the details on spotting the more desired sag boxes. Have several small yards that are very reasonable on parts, really cheap for cash. Picked up a mini set up couple of weeks ago for $40 for the box, pump and whatever I wanted of the system. How do I spot the 3 1/2 vs 3 1/8; and the 4 turn other than turning it from lock to lock?
Part numbers useful? Any info would be a help.
[quote author=CruisinGA link=board=1;threadid=6523;start=msg54006#msg54006 date=1066870488]
How are you going to get PS fluid all the way over to the pump?
All you need is a alternator bracket off a 2f with the PS side alternator, or you can install a york on board air at the same time, bracket costs $70 from www.kccruisers.com, and Yorks are cheap at junkyards or Napa.
[/quote]
why can't you run longer lines
How are you going to get PS fluid all the way over to the pump?
All you need is a alternator bracket off a 2f with the PS side alternator, or you can install a york on board air at the same time, bracket costs $70 from www.kccruisers.com, and Yorks are cheap at junkyards or Napa.
[/quote]
why can't you run longer lines
I would suggest welded on inserts from Spidertrax over welding on jam nuts. In fact they also have heims and tube and will even give you a good price on making up you links for you.
No affiliation, happy customer.
www.spidertrax.com
No affiliation, happy customer.
www.spidertrax.com
[quote author=dingo link=board=1;threadid=6523;start=msg55144#msg55144 date=1067039832]
why can't you run longer lines
[/quote]
You could. The JTO bracket won't work on the PS AFAIK, and its very easy/inexpensive to move the stock alternator over to make room for the PS pump.
why can't you run longer lines
[/quote]
You could. The JTO bracket won't work on the PS AFAIK, and its very easy/inexpensive to move the stock alternator over to make room for the PS pump.
[quote author=darren link=board=1;threadid=6523;start=msg56470#msg56470 date=1067428720]
I am in the process of using fj60 steering box and would be grateful for any advice on how to connect the steering column. I noticed that fj60 setup has been mentioned on various occasions above.
[/quote]
There was a writeup in the Toyota Trails issue before last, bimonthly magazine of the TLCA. I think you can order backissues. www.tlca.org
I am in the process of using fj60 steering box and would be grateful for any advice on how to connect the steering column. I noticed that fj60 setup has been mentioned on various occasions above.
[/quote]
There was a writeup in the Toyota Trails issue before last, bimonthly magazine of the TLCA. I think you can order backissues. www.tlca.org
[quote author=kstatecruiser link=board=1;threadid=6523;start=msg53981#msg53981 date=1066867259]
Screw everything and go full hydro. But seriously go Sag. For the tie rod use some hefty DOM tubing. That's what I have. If you want heims and adjustibility, just weld a jam nut on the end of the DOM tubing. Then place another jam nut on your heim. Make sure you get both a right hand thread heim and a left hand thread heim, this will allow for any adjustments.
[/quote]
Couldn't you just drill and tap the DOM, instead of welding a nut to the end of it?
Screw everything and go full hydro
. But seriously go Sag. For the tie rod use some hefty DOM tubing. That's what I have. If you want heims and adjustibility, just weld a jam nut on the end of the DOM tubing. Then place another jam nut on your heim. Make sure you get both a right hand thread heim and a left hand thread heim, this will allow for any adjustments.[/quote]
Couldn't you just drill and tap the DOM, instead of welding a nut to the end of it?
You could if you have a big engine lathe. I do, and I still opted for inserts. I'm sure the drill press wouldn't have handled it without putting something under the base to jack it up. Then you need a LH thread 3/4-fine tap. Findable, but not at the local hardware. I kicked it around for a while and then just ordered the inserts. They look nice, they are strong, and really not very expensive.
