FJ40 power steering options?

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Apr 14, 2003
A frequently talked about subject I know, however I'm trying to figure out the pro's and con's of the various types of power steering conversions for an FJ40 with a Chevy V8. I know it's going to be a pain no matter which way I go, but it's a little confusing with the options that are available. The following is a list of boxes that I've heard can be used:

- Saginaw
- Scout (mid 70's)
- Toyota (4x4 truck '79-'85)

Does anyone have opinions of these based on price, difficulty, and/or function?

toyota minitruck, cheapest and easiest, but retains the center arm and additional links, and is a poor choice for anything over 33's

Scout and GM are tossups (Scout is a Saginaw box too). Fab is a tad easier with the Scout, boxes are harder to find.
I'm running mini truck PS on my 40, clean and easy to install, Wdoory, on this list fabricates the brackets, they are beefy as hell. There was an article on the FJ60 PS conversion in a fairly recent issue of Toyota Trails, from what I understand, it's quite similar to the Scout PS conversion and uses mostly Toyota parts.
I went scout on mine. I liked the clean look of keeping the box inside the engin compartment.
It all depends on what you are doing.
For a daily driver/light trail rig Minitruck is the way to go IMHO.
For a heavy use trail rig its all about the Scout/GM.
For a daily driven/moderate use trail rig/if you have the time, skills and money, the FJ60 is the cream of the crop. I can scan the Toyota Trails writeup if needed.
I am personally going Minitruck for the temporary because of its simplicity and inexpense, I am planning on staying SUA and at 33/34" tires for about another year. When I spring over and go to 35" plus I will go to the FJ60 PS. All Toyota, looks nearly stock, and performs with the best of both worlds (near strength of Saginaw, eliminates center arm, has feel of an FJ60)
What do you guys recomend for me?

35" SOA and Summer cruiser/ Trail Rig..
I also would like to do some sort of Hy-steer with some Hyme joints or somthing.. i want to do it right the first time!!
If I was you I'd go hysteer with FJ60.
If you want absolute bomproofness you can do what a buddy did- fj60 with Hysteer, all heim joints and and .25" wall tubing for tie rods. But there is no adjustability, its all welded and this is a 80% trail truck only.
i made similar tie rod w/ hiems and used the threaded shoulder that the hiem can screw into. that makes it adjustable. found everything at a local race shop. steel part is 1/8th tubing 1" ID with 3/16" tubing 1" OD slid inside. hiem shoulder is 1" OD. i have rock scratches but no dents or bends yet.

i have also pulled the minitruck PS for a saginaw. 8" of play in the steering w/ that centerarm/draglink and not strong enough for the 36x14.5's. still putting it together so no personal comparisons yet. but figure it won't be too hard to add hydro assist if needed. HTH
[quote author=eelson link=board=1;threadid=6523;start=msg52873#msg52873 date=1066670083]
...I'm trying to figure out the pro's and con's of the various types of power steering conversions for an FJ40 with a Chevy V8.
Does anyone have opinions .... based on price, difficulty, and/or function?
[/quote]You already have the Chev motor so use the stock Chev pump and brackets. Saginaw box is easiest to find. Can be purchased almost anywhere. Get the 3 1/2" bore if you have the choice. Also easily modified for ram assist if needed.
on the rods, .250 is not thick enuf...I bent mine nicely this past weekend. It's getting sleeved now with .120 and will be kept for a backup, the new one will be ~3/8" wall.
I'm in the saginaw camp. Parts are easy to find and fairly cheap, even for brand new fancy stuff like AGR pumps and boxes. The FJ60 steering while pretty nice locks you into some expensive and harder to find toyota parts. If you have easy access to used toyota parts all the better.
[quote author=woody link=board=1;threadid=6523;start=msg53264#msg53264 date=1066750013]
on the rods, .250 is not thick enuf...I bent mine nicely this past weekend. It's getting sleeved now with .120 and will be kept for a backup, the new one will be ~3/8" wall.
I seem to remember catching flack over bending tie-rods :slap:
Crap occurs doesn't it woody? ;)

Seriously though I haven't had so much as a scratch since I went high steer behind the axle. Reccomend it to anyone who gets in the wash bottoms and boulders. 8)
Thanks a lot for the input guys. Since I only have 32's, and if I can make room with that 350 in there then I might go with the mini truck option to save some time and money.
Manifold to box clearances can be a problem with the sbc. The adjustment screws on the box usually hit the down flange on a ramshorn manifold. If you have over the frame headers, the number 5 exhaust pipe passes directly over the return fitting. You can't get the hose attached. The pipe is within 1/2". You need the manifold that routes under the plug and exhausts between the 5 and 7 cylinder.
I don't know about the block headers. They would have to turn inward right at the plugs to fit, at least on my V-8. I used a 305/350 header from a pu. Looks like a rams horn, however it drops between the 5 and 7.
Had that hassle. Got away from it by switching to Saginaw. Install was easier than I was lead to believe. Has more power than mini. IMHO, if you are a toyota purist with a stock motor and little tires the only options are the mini or 60. If you have the chev motor and big tires better go with one of the saginaws.

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