Hi Serentiy I thinking doing the same thing as you do can you post more photo of your build nice job
Thanks
Thanks
Builds Fj40+hj60 = hj46
- Thread starter serenity
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
serenity
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #42
Progress!
got something done today. I've been preping parts for the last little while. been on holidays the last 2 weeks and now im refreshed im getting it all together as quick as possible.
the por15 on the knuckles has come up really well, the seals work perfectly, just enough grease is left behind to lubricate the seals.
lsd is in the front end.
i tried the zip tie method to get the new cv's on but failed 4 times, then my dad suggested i try making something similar to a piston ring clamp. we used a tin can and a hose clamp and it worked perfectly on the first go. typical.
the only other changes in this area from stock are the allen bolts for the felt rings and hubs, the cut dust covers and the replacement of the king pin studs with bolts. nothing too extreme.
cant wait to get this thing back on its wheels.
got something done today. I've been preping parts for the last little while. been on holidays the last 2 weeks and now im refreshed im getting it all together as quick as possible.
the por15 on the knuckles has come up really well, the seals work perfectly, just enough grease is left behind to lubricate the seals.
lsd is in the front end.
i tried the zip tie method to get the new cv's on but failed 4 times, then my dad suggested i try making something similar to a piston ring clamp. we used a tin can and a hose clamp and it worked perfectly on the first go. typical.
the only other changes in this area from stock are the allen bolts for the felt rings and hubs, the cut dust covers and the replacement of the king pin studs with bolts. nothing too extreme.
cant wait to get this thing back on its wheels.
hey mate, im pretty sure you know who this is lol, well looks like it is coming along heaps good now, cant wait to come over again and do more work on it, give us a call at some point, organize a drive, i got a few friends who want people to go bush bashing with, anyways looking good, keep up the hard work, it will all be worth it in the end
Excellent work! Looking forward to more progress
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
you like allen bolts .. don't you .? ( I 8 'em .. )
Did you keep the split washers for the trunnion bolts?
serenity
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #47
The mountain biker in me loves Allen bolts, they just look so much cleaner than hex heads. I got new spring washers for the bolts, even the studs for the free wheeling hub are all brand new.
Had a hiccup the other day, found out after it was all built that I need to clearance the housing on the right hand side to fit the new birf, the left side is fine though.
More to come after the weekend hopefully. I might get a start on cleaning up the motor in the next week!
Had a hiccup the other day, found out after it was all built that I need to clearance the housing on the right hand side to fit the new birf, the left side is fine though.
More to come after the weekend hopefully. I might get a start on cleaning up the motor in the next week!
serenity
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #48
i finally won that battle!
front axle is built and wheels are on, and its starting to look a bit more like a cruiser once again. wish i could get things moving a bit quicker than they are but thats life.
my friendly parts supplier has a line on a 12HT possibly mated to an A440 auto box, so i'm hoping i can pick that up for a good price.
gonna start on the bodywork and body mounts now. just bought a lincoln redimig 255c welder for my workshop so it should make the process easier.
this picture makes me think that i may need to move the front axle forward or the body and engine back so that the wheels are better centered in the fenders.
whats the easiest way to move an axle forward, i know i can get around an inch and a half by drilling the perches, and going back to standard height shackles would cause the axle to swing slightly further forward. dont know how much flipping the springs will give but i dont like swapping the mil wrap to the forward side.
front axle is built and wheels are on, and its starting to look a bit more like a cruiser once again. wish i could get things moving a bit quicker than they are but thats life.
my friendly parts supplier has a line on a 12HT possibly mated to an A440 auto box, so i'm hoping i can pick that up for a good price.
gonna start on the bodywork and body mounts now. just bought a lincoln redimig 255c welder for my workshop so it should make the process easier.
this picture makes me think that i may need to move the front axle forward or the body and engine back so that the wheels are better centered in the fenders.
whats the easiest way to move an axle forward, i know i can get around an inch and a half by drilling the perches, and going back to standard height shackles would cause the axle to swing slightly further forward. dont know how much flipping the springs will give but i dont like swapping the mil wrap to the forward side.
You could.....
1. spend the coin and link the whole front and rear end and locate the axles where ever you wanted to
2. do a shackle reversal and flip your springs around as well. I think that would gain you 2 or 3 inches.
3. or lastly you could extend your frame horns on the front of the rig and push it out that way a couple of inches.
How far are you looking to move that forward?
serenity
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #50
I just want the wheel to be centered in the arch, if I put a rear spring pack up front would that move the axle in the right direction? Will check tonight after work. Or is there another spring from a different model cruiser which is longer that will push everything forward?
I don't have the coin for links,and they are beyond my fabrication abilities at this point. I'll stick with the simplicity of leaves for the moment.
I don't have the coin for links,and they are beyond my fabrication abilities at this point. I'll stick with the simplicity of leaves for the moment.
Last edited:
serenity
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #51
been getting into the bodywork a bit this weekend. started cutting out patches of rust and panels i dont need, nothing terribly exciting. although it looks like i need rims with more backspacing or some wheels spacers.
i also did some more measurements up front with the axle. drilling the spring perches will net me about 1.5" of movement forwards, and i have enough room with the radiator to move the body back almost 2" so between those two movements i should be able to give this thing the stance i want.
got plenty more cutting to do before its off to a body shop so i can sandblast it. after that i'll weld in new steel and give it paint.
i also did some more measurements up front with the axle. drilling the spring perches will net me about 1.5" of movement forwards, and i have enough room with the radiator to move the body back almost 2" so between those two movements i should be able to give this thing the stance i want.
got plenty more cutting to do before its off to a body shop so i can sandblast it. after that i'll weld in new steel and give it paint.
serenity
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #53
Got more done! rear x-member is welded in, as are the new shackle mounts. body is back off so i can clean it up. this build is actually fun at the moment although my neighbours are probably sick of hearing the grinder. also found a high mount winch for the front end. anyway here's the pics.
kling-on
Kool Arrow
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2003
- Threads
- 255
- Messages
- 5,503
- Location
- Pimpin part in SanAntonio TX
- Website
- www.texas4x4.org
Extend the body and move the wheel well back to match.... On the front I think extending the frame would be less work ... But you could also move the drive train back .. Think that's what D-animal did on his. Either way will be alot of work. Keep it up lookin great so far
serenity
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #55
i photoshopped extending the body but i didnt like the look of it, i'm drawing inspiration from this unimog for what i'm doing with the body and tray. i will be using a set of rear springs up front which will move the front axle 4" forward, just have to move the shackle mounts to the very end of the frame which is no big deal. my only concern will be the steering box position. i will probably need to move it forward to suit.
Or you can put in 2 more doors.
serenity
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #58
Been doing bits and pieces here and there over the last few weeks, in between being sick. Did a 1400km round trip to collect my winch. did some machining at work in my spare time, machined new hinge bushings for the doors and a sleeve which fits standard suspension bushings, i'll use this when i'm building the new transfer case x-member.
other work ive been doing includes stripping down the steering box so it can be tapped for hydro assist, also finished cleaning up the front of the frame, gonna start welding in the bumper after i finish typing this.
sent an email off to metal tech about a cage but no reply, looks like it's time for an expensive phone call.
Back to it!
other work ive been doing includes stripping down the steering box so it can be tapped for hydro assist, also finished cleaning up the front of the frame, gonna start welding in the bumper after i finish typing this.
sent an email off to metal tech about a cage but no reply, looks like it's time for an expensive phone call.
Back to it!
serenity
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #60
almost got it finished. couple more bits to be added, a hole for the fairlead roller needs to be cut then the new shackle mounts need to be welded on and its good to go. i'm thinking i might put a tube bent around the front of the winch to give some more protection.
