FJ40 Heater Question - Real Time (2 Viewers)

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Hi All -

Had sort of a strange question in real time.

Painting my 1970 FJ40 and had to pull the interior including the gas tank, front heater and rear heater. I pushed it back down a slight decline into my inflatable paint booth.
Finished painting but don’t think I can push it back up so I think I have to put into the gas tank.

My question is do I need to reconnect the heaters? I have the coolant lines clamped off. Don’t really want to start it up and have coolant spray out. There is a valve on the engine (driver side by firewall) to shut off coolant to the heaters, correct?

Just driving it up the 15 feet to the garage.

Thanks for any thoughts,
Matt
 
Should be no problem with the coolant lines clamped.
15 feet, you could probably just crank the starter to move it that far, with coil wire pulled if you were afraid of it starting it.
 
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Here you go…
 
If you pull the spark plugs and use low range, you can easily make the 15' just running the starter. Maybe 2 pulls with a coffee break in between if there is a big grade.
Won't removing the plugs like that pump some gas down the exhaust? Wondering because I've avoided doing compression tests too long (running without a plug) out of fear of pumping some gas into the catalytic converter and starting a fire. In this case he wouldn't start a fire immediately because the cats not hot.

Well...i guess we're saying he doesn't even have the gas hooked up.....so forget that.. But is pumping gas down the exhaust plausible and concerning or is this an old wives tale I made up?
 
Won't removing the plugs like that pump some gas down the exhaust? Wondering because I've avoided doing compression tests too long (running without a plug) out of fear of pumping some gas into the catalytic converter and starting a fire. In this case he wouldn't start a fire immediately because the cats not hot.

Well...i guess we're saying he doesn't even have the gas hooked up.....so forget that.. But is pumping gas down the exhaust plausible and concerning or is this an old wives tale I made up?
Compression tests are done wide-open-throttle. At least with a carb, vacuum is too low to fuel-up the intake charge, in theory.
 
Your not pumping raw gas into the cylders, the floats needle and seat stops the flow of raw gas. Maybe there will be a small amount air that goes thru the idle circuit. If the plugs are removed the air fuel mix would be blown out of the cylinders thru the spark plug hole. Any residual fuel in the exhaust would be small and probably evaporate over time. If the throttle plates were open like doing a compression test the air/fuel mix would be minimal by rotating the engine at such a low rpm and lack of vacuum. The plugs would've been removed anyways. If you were driving at maybe 40 mph, turn off the key and allow the engine to continue to rotate and fill the exhaust with air and fuel then turn the key back on, will cause a backfire and maybe blow a muffler apart. It used to be a thing back in the day. Kids would laugh at the loud backfire, until the muffler blows up. Then the kids would have to explain to their parents how they blew the muffler up.
 
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