Hi Fellas,
I'm troubleshooting an electrical issue that I could use some guidance on - figured this is the best place to get some direction.
My rig - LS swapped 40 being managed by Holley Terminator X(running great since 2020).
Issue #1:
The switched power at the ignition suddenly stopped working. When I cycle the key through the ACC and ON positions, the dash panel that normally comes online is completely dead. That switched power also controls the Holley ECU.
Battery has a full charge - brake lights, marker lights and turn signals work fine. I've replaced the ignition switch and key cylinder with new ones, and checked and replaced all fuses and relays, which hasn't solved the issue. As a test to rule out the Holley ECU as the issue, I ran a positive lead directly from the battery to the soldered pin on the ignition switch at about the 1 o'clock position, and it powers the Holley ECU, primes the fuel pump and I can start the truck - as long as I hold that wire in place.
Issue #2:
When performing the workaround start as I just explained, the truck actually cranks when the key reaches the ON position, vs. the usual method of rolling it all the way forward to crank, then releasing it as it springs back into the ON position.
I'm wondering if my ignition was the initial cause, and that I wired it incorrectly when installing the new one(previous owner did not have the original 4 PIN connector in place for plug-n-play replacement), OR whether the actual cause is something else entirely.
I appreciate any insights and experience driven recommendations you guys may have. Also, I'm located in S. FL in case anyone in the area is interested in taking a look.
Thanks guys!
I'm troubleshooting an electrical issue that I could use some guidance on - figured this is the best place to get some direction.
My rig - LS swapped 40 being managed by Holley Terminator X(running great since 2020).
Issue #1:
The switched power at the ignition suddenly stopped working. When I cycle the key through the ACC and ON positions, the dash panel that normally comes online is completely dead. That switched power also controls the Holley ECU.
Battery has a full charge - brake lights, marker lights and turn signals work fine. I've replaced the ignition switch and key cylinder with new ones, and checked and replaced all fuses and relays, which hasn't solved the issue. As a test to rule out the Holley ECU as the issue, I ran a positive lead directly from the battery to the soldered pin on the ignition switch at about the 1 o'clock position, and it powers the Holley ECU, primes the fuel pump and I can start the truck - as long as I hold that wire in place.
Issue #2:
When performing the workaround start as I just explained, the truck actually cranks when the key reaches the ON position, vs. the usual method of rolling it all the way forward to crank, then releasing it as it springs back into the ON position.
I'm wondering if my ignition was the initial cause, and that I wired it incorrectly when installing the new one(previous owner did not have the original 4 PIN connector in place for plug-n-play replacement), OR whether the actual cause is something else entirely.
I appreciate any insights and experience driven recommendations you guys may have. Also, I'm located in S. FL in case anyone in the area is interested in taking a look.
Thanks guys!
