FJ to BJ mutation? (1 Viewer)

[Otterav]

Hey,
Yesterday the engine was installed! It went in like buttah, the hardest part was dragging the engine lift across the ground with a 4000lb come-along to the cruiser. I actually had to chain the come along to the shop to change the angle for the pull! The process of measuring and remeasuring the engine mount positions paid off. I placed the radiator shell and fan shroud for location and position check, all is well there. Gonna be hooking up systems and reinstalling stuff today. Here are some linkys for the install flicks:

eric

 

[Otterav]

WhooooHooooo,
Got the fuel lines finished, radiator installed, filled up and leak checked. All good! Took 5 gals of diesel from my 2 1/2 ton truck, and filled the tank 1/4 of the way, pumped the primer, and started it up, took a bit of cranking, before it started and set to idling nicely. Gonna figger out the alternator wiring tomorrow and start bolting all the junk back together!
Ola
eric

 

[Otterav]

Hey,
Back from the Big annual camping trip. It was great, woulda been better if the Cruizer was there! Been dinking around with the alternator wiring. I have a internal regulator alt wiring is giving me some pause for thought. I need a wiring diagram for the alt P/N# 27040-57011, if you have a pic of the wiring diagram and wanna email me a copy send to: otterav@earthlink.net , I think that the alternator came from a early 80s BJ6X?
Thanks
eric

 

[rutbeer]

What color are the wires on the Alt? Do you have a three wire connector that has a red, blue, and white wire in it?

 

[Otterav]

What color are the wires on the Alt? Do you have a three wire connector that has a red, blue, and white wire in it?

Hey,
The wires are black/yellow, yellow/white and white, with the yellow/white and the white are large gauge and the black/yellow is smaller.
eric

 

[Otterav]

Hey,
Got the drive lines in, it seems like the original FJ driveshaft was short after the 5 1/2" lift. The BJ rear driveshaft was a bit longer, now the driveshaft has about the same extension of the slip joint as when it was on the unlifted BJ. So for once I got lucky without having to fab everything. I reinstalled the trans tunnel, seats, gauges, and a bunch of misc parts in the cabin. I will be fabbing a semi-temp exhaust system('till the turbo install).
Ola
eric

 

[rutbeer]

Hey,
The wires are black/yellow, yellow/white and white, with the yellow/white and the white are large gauge and the black/yellow is smaller.
eric

Hmmm...those aren't like mine at all. In my 78, I had to remove the regulator from the firewall, and connect two of the wires together (one was a small gauge white w/blue stripe and I think the other was black w/yellow stripe).
The other end of that wire then becomes a 12v power on (small white w/blue stripe I think) with key that is run to the power lead for the alt. I ran another wire from my charcoal canister wire that was used as the "sense", then hooked up the large white wire w/blue stripe as normal to the B terminal on the alt. There is usually a third wire on the plug of the alt that is used for a charge light, but I didn't hook that up.
IIRC, I also had a white w/black stripe that was a ground that ran to the ground terminal of the alt. You should be able to use a meter to figure out which of the original alt wires are ground, and which one becomes a 12v power on. I don't know what model of alt you have, so the wires or positions may be different from mine.

 

[Otterav]

Hey,
Rut, thanks for the input! Your info got me thinking, when I hooked 12V to the white/yellow I got 17.2V, when I hooked up 12V to the white I got nothing. The key was to hook up 12V to the yellow/white(excite), and hook 12V to the white(sense), when I did this I got about 14.2V which was within spec for the 3B manual!
WhoooHooo, lectricity! I ordered some exhaust tubing and 90's along with a muffler and flex joint, gonna stick 'em together with the MIG for a temp exhaust system today.
OLA
eric

 

[Otterav]

Hello,
I finished the temp muffler install, see pic links below. I haven't used the MIG for more than tacking, finally got serious about welding with the 'ole MIG. Twisted some knobs and got it figgered out. I reinstalled the fenders and the grill stuff. Hooking up wires and stuff to get the electrics online, gonna stick some more wires together and get more systems online tomorrow.

Ola
eric

 

[Otterav]

Well,
I finished installing the last of the bits and chunks. I had to graft my wiring harness from behind the door aft to the BJ wiring harness that I transferred over. I still have to hook up the heater, and finish uo some small details. This swap was relatively simple, lots of grafting, but satisfying after it is all said and done. Cruiser drives like I expected, blazingly slow, smoky and noisy, just what I was looking for. Will be changing the hoses to viton, for the biodiesel burning! Turbo is on the bench as well as the 13BT manifold, collecting the bits and chunks for that swap soon!
Ola
eric
P.S. I did go for a 45 minute cruise to check the handi-work out. Drives nice, a true cruiser experience!

 

[MadmanCruiser]

Great work. I like what you've done.

I have been thinking about doing the exact same thing with my FJ45 with an engine from a BJ60.

Would be interested in chatting with you online or offline about what if any electrical difficulties you ran into. I have no idea how to go about this and any info or advice and or photos that you could pass along would be great. I know i want to do it, but as i mentioned above i have zero idea how to go about it.

Cheers,

Adam

 

[Otterav]

Hello,
I have been driving the FJ/BJ mutant, amazing, 120 miles on a third of a tank of Bio. I am working the final bugs out, need to figger out the water temp meter sensor, and wire up the 12V glow plug setup. Will follow up with details later! Flicks of the Cruizer put back together:

Ola
eric

 

[Otterav]

Great work. I like what you've done.

I have been thinking about doing the exact same thing with my FJ45 with an engine from a BJ60.

Would be interested in chatting with you online or offline about what if any electrical difficulties you ran into. I have no idea how to go about this and any info or advice and or photos that you could pass along would be great. I know i want to do it, but as i mentioned above i have zero idea how to go about it.

Cheers,

Adam

Adam,
PM me and we can chat, or email me and we can e-mail back and forth.
eric

 

[Otterav]

Well,
Figgered the mileage on the first tank of bio, 24mpg. With lots of idling and low speed along with some freeway running at high speed.
Ola
eric

 

[Durock]

good work

That is some mighty fine swapping !
If you happen to have a pic of the tranny mounts and crossmember installation. I would be very interested in seeing it.

 

[Otterav]

That is some mighty fine swapping !
If you happen to have a pic of the tranny mounts and crossmember installation. I would be very interested in seeing it.

Hey,
What sort of details are you looking for, the trans mount and crossmember are stockers from the BJ, If you want some pics I will crawl under and shoot them if you like!
eric

 

[Durock]

Well you said earlier in your thread that "If one bought an engine (which I did) and was gonna mount it up without another car to measure (also my case) it would be tough, if not impossible." So I'm kinda scared.
Right Now I'm trying to figure out the trans cross member angles and measurements (not present on my fj) so I thought a picture of the stock one could be helpful even if it's just to give me a better idea of the way Toyota originally planed things.

 

[Otterav]

Well you said earlier in your thread that "If one bought an engine (which I did) and was gonna mount it up without another car to measure (also my case) it would be tough, if not impossible." So I'm kinda scared.
Right Now I'm trying to figure out the trans cross member angles and measurements (not present on my fj) so I thought a picture of the stock one could be helpful even if it's just to give me a better idea of the way Toyota originally planed things.

'Nuff said, not trying to scare you, just being practical. The Toyota engines are mounted with a offset, I think someone said 7 degrees or so. Here are a couple of links to show the cant to the side:

Here is my suggestion, find someone in Canada who for a price would go to a wrecking yard and remove the mounts and ship them to you. There are lots of guys on these forums who live in Canada. Second choice spend a large amount of locating the engine in the frame after you have your choice of radiator mounted with its shroud. My install took 4-5 weeks from start to finish working around work and vacation. The engine mounts are a multi angle and asymmetric design, this give the cant to the side. The trans mount is a stamped, complex and unique design. The trans to rubber mounts are arrainged in a semi-circular pattern. I really like to fabricate and have done a lot of it, I also want a driving car without a lot of unnecessary work, that is why I chose to buy the whole rusted enchilada! That being said, a working trip to a wrecking yard to collect all the bits and chunks would be far cheaper, with less headache than trying to fabricate the stuff that the Toyota guys already figgered out for you. If you were to buy all the parts necessary for the conversion from $pecter and the internet, it would be cheaper to buy a running BJ, without the rust, and drive it home. I have always told my customers, "If you can buy it off the shelf, buy it, its cheaper than me designing, cutting, welding it together". I have finished up many a home started project for a customer, and it was not cheap(for them). If I can help in any way lemme know!
Ola
eric

 

[Otterav]

hey,
Here are some trans pics I went out and snapped:

I also took measurements these are referenced from the front cross member top corner positions, these measurements are critical only in reference to each other. Just use the same datum(position) for all measurments and you will be ok! From an e-mail I sent to someone else:
The measurements that I used are taken from the top of the front crossmember rear surface, topmost position(tuck that tape right up to the top innermost position). The front motor mount is 24 5/16" from the above measurment position. The front motor mounts are orientated at a 90 degree angle, to the top surface of the frame. The rear trans mount is mounted 50 5/16" from the original measurement position, The tricky part is the rear trans mount is canted, and the cant is built into the frame mounts, due to the hole locations being orientated differently from the top surface of the mount.
Ola
eric

 

[rutbeer]

Well you said earlier in your thread that "If one bought an engine (which I did) and was gonna mount it up without another car to measure (also my case) it would be tough, if not impossible." So I'm kinda scared.
Right Now I'm trying to figure out the trans cross member angles and measurements (not present on my fj) so I thought a picture of the stock one could be helpful even if it's just to give me a better idea of the way Toyota originally planed things.

Sorry for a hijack....
Aligning the engine is not too bad. I suggest you have an engine hoist, floor jack, two jack stands and some large C clamps. I got the engine close to where I wanted it with the hoist and floor jack, then clamped the frame mounts into position. It took some readjusting here and there, but once you have one or two mounts clamped where you want them, you can ajust the angles easily. I even moved mine backwards about two inches from where I had it clamped orginally.
Once you have things where you want them, or have fabricated what you need. Take a sharpie and outline the holes and mounts. I wound up pulling the motor twice during this process.