Builds FJ-60 LQ4/NV4500 swap

[AggiePE]

Hey guys, I've built several cruisers and never done a thread on any of my work (not proud of that). I want to start the new trend with the motor swap I am currently doing on my 1983 FJ-60. I bought this cruiser 4 years ago and got it back to running/driving/cosmetic shape. I'll post a few photos of what it was and what it currently is to start out with.

 

[AggiePE]

Before:

After:

Had to do typical rust repair in fenders, fix several dents and repainted the factory desert beige. I installd a new headliner and a dash cap, other than that the interior is all original (Aside from the tuffy console). I installed an HFS lift and 33x10.5 BFG A/T's on factory wheels. Added the ARB front bumper and winch with lights for a little front end protection.

 

[AggiePE]

This past week a few buddies from work came over for "wrench night" and we pulled the motor/tans and exhaust from the cruiser. I had all of the bolts and hoses disconnected before hand so all we did was chop the exhaust and use the engine hoist to pull it out. Hardest parts was getting it into the back of my F-250 after we pulled the motor assembly.

 

[NCFJ]

Looking forward to seeing your progress

 

[AggiePE]

Spent all day Saturday with a power washer, simple green, and a scrub brush. Got the engine bay cleaned up good and cut the factory motor mounts out and cleaned up the welds.

 

[AggiePE]

Worked on the twin stick kit I got from George at Valley Hybrids - Had to fab a custom bracket for the shifters, but it should work out well and put the shifters close to the factory hole. A little bending with a torch should get them where they need to be.

 

[AggiePE]

Got the motor mounts tacked in and test fit the good to make sure it would close with the plastic intake manifold cover on! Looks good! Pulled the motor out this evening to finish welding up the motor mounts and clean up the engine mount brackets where I had to trim them to fit between the frame rails. Also got some goodies while I was out of town this past weekend. Stainless battery tray tol hold a new optima after assembly, steam vent fitting and bleeder port from JTR, and the adapter to run the FJ60 temp sender for the gauges to work properly. Found out that I'm going to have to modify the 2wd/4wd linkage under the cruiser to clean the transmission tunnel. Anyone had this issue? The 90 comes out too far from the transmission and hits the tunnel. I guess I'll find some bar stock and make one with 2 x 45° bends in it instead of one sharp 90° bend....

 

[AggiePE]

ended up having +/- 3/4" clearance between the head and the firewall. This will require me to modify the floor shifter plate and remove the defrost duct work in the truck to make everything clear. I was hoping that the engine would move back far enough to avoid this but it didn't....

 

[Str8Razor]

Your gonna love it when your done, I did the same swap in mine and it's incredible to drive!!!

 

[AggiePE]

Update: 'ads some progress over the holidays. Got the fuel pump and filter mounted under the truck and the fuel line run to the engine bay. Got a temp ground wire and rested the pump, worked like a charm! Installed the throttle cable I got from Lokar. I bought the 48" not knowing the exact length. It was long, a 36" would have worked great. Also did some plumbing on the heater hoses.

 

[Shes Mad]

What did you use for a fuel filter

 

[gregnash]

So looks like your LQ4 is out of an older vehicle? Is it drive by cable or am I imagining things.

 

[AggiePE]

Used a fuel filter from summit. Not sure of the exact fitment, it has 3/8" hose barbs in and out. I am running it upstream of the pump. It's an 05 lq4 that had the drive by cable throttle body/etc put on it.

 

[AggiePE]

Made some more progress today. Re-made a fuel return line that runs along the firewall. Got the crossmember fabbed up and tacked together. Also, had to modify/fab a 4wd selector arm because the original was hitting the trans tunnel under the cruiser when it was put up into the correct position. The large aluminum piece on the back of the transfer case is the reluctor ring kit from JTR to make the vehicle speed read correctly for the ecm.

 

[Well Sorted]

So that JTR kit worked with the AA adapter kit for the NV4500? I read in a few places on here that the spud shaft length is shorter and may cause issues with having enough thread on the output side. See threads below:

V8 conversation help

Getting ready to order parts this week for my own LS swap, appreciate your thread and any insights you can share.

 

[AggiePE]

I replied to your V-8 conversion thread. The JTR kit worked great with the AA kit. the reluctor ring gear is threaded just like a nut so you use that instead of the factory nut and just thread lock it because you cannot stake the JTR gear.

 

[AggiePE]

Photos

 

[gregnash]

Wow you are moving along quick!!!.. So you converted your throttle body over to an older DBC one instead of the Drive By Wire (DBW)? Any particular reason, or did you just want to keep the stock gas pedal.

 

[AggiePE]

I purchased the motor and trans from a guy in Dallas and it was already converted to DBC. Not sure why he converted it, I never asked honestly. He was running in for a short time in a 4runner project and decoded to go a different direction (Diesel IRRC).

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

K,

Its coming along nicely.

J