Builds FJ-60 LQ4/NV4500 swap

[AggiePE]

Shroud halves.

 

[AggiePE]

I was originally going to sink the ring 1" into the box but it working out to need to sit on the front of the box in order to have the blades 1/2 way inside the shroud/ring.

 

[Elbert]

I have a different engine (5.7) but have a similar cooling setup that you are moving too. (GM OEM Radiator fan and GM fan clutch). I moved the lower radiator hose outlet to the far passenger side of the radiator to help clear the fan. Had the radiator shop do that...only real solution I came up with that did not require fan modifications.

Revised:

So as noted I had the lower water neck on the radiator moved to the far side (passenger) side of the radiator to help clear the GM radiator fan. I also had the top water neck on the radiator re-sized so I could run the stock top radiator hose from a GM 5.7 (pickup/suv). Tired to make sourcing parts easy or eaiser. GM mechanical fan and matching fan clutch ...plus shroud is the answer.

 

[AggiePE]

I talked to a local shop about it and they said they could do it for $150-200! After that I decided to try a cheaper solution. The hoses I think are going to work great. Time will tell! I got the rig welded back together and test for the shroud and hose. I got the plates cut to fill the gaps in the box where the rig was originally going to go.

 

[AggiePE]

I also added some 1" guides on the inside of the top of the shroud to aid in alignment and sealing the gap where the shroud was cut in half.

 

[AggiePE]

1" pieces welded in top shroud.

 

[AggiePE]

I got the shroud painted and installed after work today. Runs nice and cool down the road but seemed to get hotter than I like (215-220*) at idle. Rev the engine up to about 1100 rpm and it cools it right down to 198-200. Anyone had this phenomenon on an LS swap with a mechanical fan? I attemped to purge the air out but I guess there could be some left in the system??? Thoughts from other LS swap guys?

 

[MANUCHAO]

Is that plastic conduit under the rad hose part of the steam port? If so where does it dump into?
That temp is high for idle... did you installed a new thermostat?

Make sure to seal all around that fan shroud.... for optimal performance......

Does it continue to climb if you let it idle or does it stay at the temp?

 

[Elbert]

PM FJ60cam , he did a engine swap similar to this, or go check out his swap thread over on the MS club area. in regard to your engine temp question.
Cam's FJ60 is Gittin' a Heart Transplant

 

[AggiePE]

MANUCHAU: The plastic covering is just to protect the rubber steam vent hose on the top of the metal shroud. The factory steam port tubes tie into the 1/4" rubber hose and go into the upper radiator hose. I got the upper radiator hose vent/bleeder/sight glass from JTR. It appeared to want to keep climbing, I didn't let it go past 218. The shroud is pretty well sealed all the way around. I drove it a good bit last night and when I checked the reservoir this morning, most of the excess in the reservoir was sucked back into the cooling system. Maybe some air escaped as it cooled down last night. I topped off the reservoir this morning and it ran great on the way to work never saw over 198 on the scan gauge - Catch it was only 80* outside. This afternoon on the way home from work will tell the story....

 

[YotaJosh]

It appeared to want to keep climbing, I didn't let it go past 218. The shroud is pretty well sealed all the way around. I drove it a good bit last night and when I checked the reservoir this morning, most of the excess in the reservoir was sucked back into the cooling system. Maybe some air escaped as it cooled down last night. I topped off the reservoir this morning and it ran great on the way to work never saw over 198 on the scan gauge - Catch it was only 80* outside. This afternoon on the way home from work will tell the story....

How did you route your heater lines? Did you just connect them straight from the water pump to the FJ60 pipes on the firewall? Meaning that having the heater off is blocking water flow.

LS motors need a constant flow between the heater inlet and outlet on the water pump. More info and a nifty (but expensive) solution: LS Swap Heater Bypass Block

For my swap, I plan on creating my own "H pipe" using a 3/4 3 way tee and a 5/8 3 way tee. The short hose in the middle will just have to stretch over the 3/4 side.

 

[AggiePE]

I read a previous thread: Post # 13 - 1985 FJ60 -> 6.0 Liter LS Swap Build Thread

He mentioned having a valve that he installed as well to circulate coolant when the heater is turned off. THis is the first thread I read that dealt with this issue. I assume the below valve only opens when there is pressure appleid across is i.e. the OEM heater valve on the FJ60 is closed causing pressure to build up behind it.

Amazon.com: ACDelco 15-5675 GM Original Equipment Heater Bypass Valve: Automotive

Good call, I had forgotten about reading this. Thanks!

 

[MANUCHAO]

Here is the cheap version.......

Heater Valve 74781 | O’Reilly Auto Parts

Edit: in addition.... my experience last time i did a rad flush... initially engine was overheating... i think it was due to a temp stuck thermostat.... i usually turn on and run the heater to get rid off as much air out of the cooling system as possible....

 

[AggiePE]

I just ordered this: No cables or vacuum activation needed!

Amazon.com: ACDelco 15-5675 GM Original Equipment Heater Bypass Valve: Automotive

 

[YotaJosh]

I just ordered this: No cables or vacuum activation needed!

Amazon.com: ACDelco 15-5675 GM Original Equipment Heater Bypass Valve: Automotive

Good find!

 

[NCFJ]

The photo is of that valve installed. Remove the Vac housing and it's a breeze to move the lever from Summer to Winter. Lever is on the bottom of the valve.

 

[AggiePE]

Got the bypass valve installed and the heat on the hoses before the thermostat opened told me the bypass was working as it should. Couldn't tell much from idling in the driveway if it's going to help but I'm going to drive it out to the field tomorrrow so that should be a good test to see if it helps.

 

[AggiePE]

Cruiser seems to be running in the temp ranges as it should. I have not seen over 220* idling. I did however spring a leak in the rear heater core and found it after it had leaked out through the floor onto the garage concrete. Bypassed the rear heater this evening. Anyone else had this problem? Do the rear heaters leak often?

 

[AggiePE]

Finally broke down and ordered an ARB locker for the rear and a high output compressor a few weeks back. Got them in and decided to mount the compressor under the hood. Didn't have an ample amount of room on the fender so I fabricated a bracket this evening that bolts to the frame.

 

[gregnash]

Nifty little bracket and cool that you mounted to the frame rail.