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- #41
Builds Fix'n up the Land Cruiser..... (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter TYM4FUN
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- Thread starter
- #42
- Thread starter
- #44
Thursday and Friday I spent time spraying all my nuts and bolts with penetrating fluid to help with removal. Then I crossed my fingers and said a prayer because you just never know...
Saturday during work I was able to get started installing and removing a few items. First I removed the rear shocks and sway bar with all nuts and bolts coming off easily. I dropped the sway bar for two reasons...One I will be installing the new drop brackets when they come in. Two, it will be easier to remove and install the spring just to be sure the drive line does not get stopped by the sway bar being so close on the front one.
Saturday during work I was able to get started installing and removing a few items. First I removed the rear shocks and sway bar with all nuts and bolts coming off easily. I dropped the sway bar for two reasons...One I will be installing the new drop brackets when they come in. Two, it will be easier to remove and install the spring just to be sure the drive line does not get stopped by the sway bar being so close on the front one.
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- Thread starter
- #45
Then I dropped the front sway bar and front steering damper. The front steering damper comes with new hardware. However I only used the new locking nuts and washers because I didn't have the tools at the time to remove the press fit bolt, in my opinion not a big deal...
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- Thread starter
- #46
Today (Monday) after looking at my install of the steering damper, I realized that whole assembly is in the way of the two bolts holding on the front panhard bar.
I also brought to work some more tools from home to help me out..So I decided to remove the R/F ball joint and drop the steering damper assembly to make room for extraction....
I also brought to work some more tools from home to help me out..So I decided to remove the R/F ball joint and drop the steering damper assembly to make room for extraction....
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- Thread starter
- #47
I removed the driver side bolt for the panhard bar with no problem once I got it broke lose...That bad boy was on there for keeps. A little over two feet of breaker bar made the persuasion. Then I moved over to the passenger side. This guy decided he wanted to stay!!
I was able to break it and get it started, but it started to come off a little tough. So I stopped and sprayed it with some more fluid and let it sit for a couple of hours.....Come back and it still is getting harder to undo. The bolt came out slow but stopped and would not retract anymore, even though it was spinning. We all know what that is.....BAD news. I gave up put the impact gun on it to get it out and this is what I have.
I was able to break it and get it started, but it started to come off a little tough. So I stopped and sprayed it with some more fluid and let it sit for a couple of hours.....Come back and it still is getting harder to undo. The bolt came out slow but stopped and would not retract anymore, even though it was spinning. We all know what that is.....BAD news. I gave up put the impact gun on it to get it out and this is what I have.
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inkpot
SILVER Star
I think there is quite a bit of room behind that bracket with the weld nut in it. Just drill it out and buy a 1/14-1/2" longer bolt and lock nut.
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- #53
Also over the weekend I did get the rear panhard rod installed with success! Both bolts came out with no problem. I adjusted the new bar to be 3/8" longer than the stock rod and set the lock nut. The panhard has a much bigger bushing installed than oem so installing it is a really tight fit. The passenger side I was a able to force it in with some effort. however the drivers side was a bit harder, as the bar is now longer and has the bigger bushing......
Some say to strap the axle and body and ratchet them closer together to make room installing the longer bar. I was able to get it started in place with a mallet, then lined up the bolt hole with a big ass punch.
I also put ample amounts of anti-seize compound on the threads before installing.
Both bolts came out with no problem. I adjusted the new bar to be 3/8" longer than the stock rod and set the lock nut. The panhard has a much bigger bushing installed than oem so installing it is a really tight fit. The passenger side I was a able to force it in with some effort. however the drivers side was a bit harder, as the bar is now longer and has the bigger bushing......Some say to strap the axle and body and ratchet them closer together to make room installing the longer bar. I was able to get it started in place with a mallet, then lined up the bolt hole with a big ass punch.
I also put ample amounts of anti-seize compound on the threads before installing.
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- Thread starter
- #54
Before I removed the ball joint I did notice that most of my ball joints were cracked and leaking....when I removed the R/F ball joint it was floppy like and elephants ear. Same goes for the condition of the joints for the front sway bar.
Looks like I will be replacing all four of the front ball joints and the two for the front sway bar.
Looks like I will be replacing all four of the front ball joints and the two for the front sway bar.
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- Thread starter
- #55
Got some more parts in....one part was different from the list I made previously in the thread, and it was the brake rotors. I had ordered Brembo, but they were out so they sent the ATE power slotted rotors. I did not want them, but I have had them before and they performed well. I will change the part number in the list...
I had a chance to install the pads and the rotors for the rear and looking much better now.
I had a chance to install the pads and the rotors for the rear and looking much better now.
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Had time to get the brakes done today....
Serious eye candy
