Starter was $237 and $479 for the install.
I was having intermittent starting issues every so often and it started getting worse. It would barely start before taking it to the dealer the day of the install. No problems since.
fix for immobilizer issue? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter aedavis
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I was having intermittent starting issues every so often and it started getting worse. It would barely start before taking it to the dealer the day of the install. No problems since.
Ok, try this, out of curiosity. you have everything back together, you go to turn it over and it doesnt do anything. Tap/hit the starter with a hammer. If it turns over, its prolly the starter. I would bet 100 bucks, its just dirty contacts w/in the fuseblock.
benc
Supporting Vendor
Good luck tapping it with a hammer under the intake[emoji1]
If it's the starter it will just click when you turn the key, Does it click? If it's a key/immobilizer issue it will crank but not start.
Good luck.
Sent from my iPhone
If it's the starter it will just click when you turn the key, Does it click? If it's a key/immobilizer issue it will crank but not start.
Good luck.
Sent from my iPhone
Last edited:
derp!
Not recalling a click, but will take notice next time. At the moment, I wouldn't even know where the starter is to tap it - but I'll find a picture.
As was stated above, the starter is underneath the intake manifold on the rear of the engine. pretty hard to get to. My bad on that advice. Just clean the contacts w/in the fuse block first. From my knowledge of working on vehicles most of my life, its always something completely stupid and easy that fixes everything.
This is my first post on this forum. I just bought my '01 100 two weeks ago and have been lurking on here learning what I can. After reading this thread I looked under my hood to check it out. Whoever had this vehicle before me has run a wire, with an inline fuse, from the positive terminal of the battery, into the fuse box, and into the side of the EFI fuse socket that is closest to the engine. The other half of the fuse socket is open. Looks like it has been there for a good while. I haven't run across this fix yet on the forums but that is what I got. Before buying my 100, I had no idea this was an issue.
Sounds like a interesting way of addressing the weak circuit involving the engine immobilizer.
- Thread starter
- #109
I am planning to do the same 'fix' in my 2001 that I've had jumpered for 2.5 years.
You are the one I learned about the jumper from. There are a few threads dealing with this issue, quite a few owners struggling with this problem. This seems like a much more cost affective way of dealing with the problem than replacing the fuse box.
I currently have a paper clip jumpering the fuse contacts. It has been starting reliably, but I can't stand the idea of leaving a paper clip in place long term. Does anyone have any ideas on how to disable the engine immobilizer system? Or is it yet another nanny system that I can't turn off?
I am looking for a work around like the Daytime Running Light over-ride that I found here on Mud and absolutely love. I'm a big boy, I prefer to make decisions about what systems are operational by myself. Am I alone?
I am looking for a work around like the Daytime Running Light over-ride that I found here on Mud and absolutely love. I'm a big boy, I prefer to make decisions about what systems are operational by myself. Am I alone?
After a no more symptoms until we had a cold snap (no clicks, just accessories turning on but it wouldn't start) I had the battery checked. Battery was the culprit - only putting out 480 cold cranking amps when it should have been 700.
I had attempted to remove some of the relays to clean the connections, but they are not easily removed. What's the trick ?
I had attempted to remove some of the relays to clean the connections, but they are not easily removed. What's the trick ?
timmbuck2
SILVER Star
If you turn the key and it tries to start but won't fire up, and your security light is still on, insert the key and leave it in the on position, listen to the radio for 5-10 minutes, and the light will turn off and you can start the truck. Happened to me 3 times so far, finally figured it out the last time...no idea why, but it works.
One of the first times I had this issue, after several 'crank-no start' attempts, for some reason now unkown to me, I turned the headlights on, and it started. I haven't tried this since that first time, but perhaps the electrical load of the headlights changes something. I still have the paperclip in place and it hasn't acted up again, but I am still looking for a permanent solution.
I HATE this feeling. This is why I drive Toyota's so I don't have these kind of issues!
I HATE this feeling. This is why I drive Toyota's so I don't have these kind of issues!
Just adding to this thread.
'98 100 LC. Started having intermittent non starting issues. Appeared to have good battery power (lights, horn, etc.) but would not crank, just nothing. On putting a jump on it, it would start right up.
I thought maybe the battery was shot so got a new battery. This morning it would crank strong but wouldn't start. I am aware of the EFI/fuse box issue and replaced the sound looking 20a efi fuse with a 30 amp and started right up.
I'll keep an eye out for symptoms to reappear and then I guess go after the fuse box?
Truck has 173K on it and got a new starter probably 7-8 years ago. It did this turn over with out starting about 3 years ago and cleaning the efi relay connections and fuses took care of it until recently.
Hope this helps someone.
'98 100 LC. Started having intermittent non starting issues. Appeared to have good battery power (lights, horn, etc.) but would not crank, just nothing. On putting a jump on it, it would start right up.
I thought maybe the battery was shot so got a new battery. This morning it would crank strong but wouldn't start. I am aware of the EFI/fuse box issue and replaced the sound looking 20a efi fuse with a 30 amp and started right up.
I'll keep an eye out for symptoms to reappear and then I guess go after the fuse box?
Truck has 173K on it and got a new starter probably 7-8 years ago. It did this turn over with out starting about 3 years ago and cleaning the efi relay connections and fuses took care of it until recently.
Hope this helps someone.
Wondering if I can pick anyone's brain as well. I have a 2004 and it will crank and start for about 3 seconds. Does anyone think that may be an immobilizer issue or does the immobilizer inhibit cranking?
I think that it is not your immobilizer.
I know of two variants in other vehicles with immobilizers in that in one the engine won't crank and in the other it will crank and not start. But not both as you say.
I am not 100% sure about LC immobilizers and which they are but I doubt it would do what you are experiencing.
Typically it would shut off the power to the starter or shut of the power to the ignition coils. One would not allow the starter to turn the other would allow the starter to turn but no ignition.
What you are describing would be some sort of delayed cut off. I don't think that's how it works on these cars.
I know of two variants in other vehicles with immobilizers in that in one the engine won't crank and in the other it will crank and not start. But not both as you say.
I am not 100% sure about LC immobilizers and which they are but I doubt it would do what you are experiencing.
Typically it would shut off the power to the starter or shut of the power to the ignition coils. One would not allow the starter to turn the other would allow the starter to turn but no ignition.
What you are describing would be some sort of delayed cut off. I don't think that's how it works on these cars.
benc
Supporting Vendor
Here is what I have found with issues I have had myself, hope this helps.
#1. If the vehicle turns over but does not start it is most likely the imobalizer or EFI fuse. (Replaced my fuse even though it looked good and no more issue.)
#2. If vehicle does not turn over and just clicks and the battery is good it is most likely the starter.
Most of the time the starter will start giving you warnings before it goes out completely. If you have had these symptoms and the battery is good it's time to replace the starter or starter contacts.
#3. Bad battery.
This will have similar symptoms as above but the vehicle will not start without a jump or charge.
These are 3 most common issues with the 100 series and I have had all 3 issues with mine. Hope this helps.
#1. If the vehicle turns over but does not start it is most likely the imobalizer or EFI fuse. (Replaced my fuse even though it looked good and no more issue.)
#2. If vehicle does not turn over and just clicks and the battery is good it is most likely the starter.
Most of the time the starter will start giving you warnings before it goes out completely. If you have had these symptoms and the battery is good it's time to replace the starter or starter contacts.
#3. Bad battery.
This will have similar symptoms as above but the vehicle will not start without a jump or charge.
These are 3 most common issues with the 100 series and I have had all 3 issues with mine. Hope this helps.
benc
Supporting Vendor
Mine just had a similar issue. It would crank over for several seconds then start but run rough for a bit. I shut it off and tried again, same thing, I then replaced the EFI fuse and it fired right up and ran fine, my old fuse looked fine but replacing it fixed my issue for now. This happened about 2-3 months ago and hasn't happened since.
Good luck.
