First time electrical with pics.

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landcrshr said:
If the reading is "all over the place", that usually means there is voltage present on that wire.

Sorry landcrshr. May you elaborate on this please. This is not good???
 
That can happen when testing a live circuit, usually a minus sign will appear on the meter's display when checking Ohms.
But it can also mean there is a poor connection if the reading is erratic.

Also, I noticed you have an auto-ranging meter. Your reading may just be at the cusp of where the meter wants to switch over to the next range. Try selecting the appropriate range manually if your meter lets you do it.
 
Ok. A few more things to throw at you fellas.

I'm wondering about a particular non OE wire going from fuse box to the radio and to the cig lighter connection I believe. Check it.



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Whom ever messed with the wiring decided to use speaker wire. Maybe it's fine but just wondering if that's the way it would be wired from factory but using OE wiring.

Also this connection was attached to the 3 extra cig lighters that came with the truck. We disconnected them. The two wires are still attached and go up to the wire loom. Any idea as to what these colored wires are all about??? Check out the funky 30 amp fuse attached.



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And lastly I checked the dome light connection again today. I inserted both probes into here.



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And the meter read 2.6 again. Good, right???

Thanks for reading fellas.

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First pics: Looks like they tapped into the heater circuit to make the cigarette lighter(s) work when the key is off. They also fed this to the radio probably because the dome circuit was messed up.

Last pic: That's 2.6 "k" Ohms, right? Was the battery disconnected when you did the test?
 
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looks like the connection for the left dash speaker.

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landcrshr said:
First pics: Looks like they tapped into the heater circuit to make the cigarette lighter(s) work when the key is off. They also fed this to the radio probably because the dome circuit was messed up. Last pic: That's 2.6 "k" Ohms, right? Was the battery disconnected when you did the test?

So should that be messed with and put back to factory specs???

Is it possible that someone would feed it to the radio so that the radio/DVD could work independently of the car being on?

The negative battery terminal has been disconnected only.

Thanks again Ron.
 
Looks like you are making good progress, I am impressed. You are certainly a brave soul to dive in to this project.

Between your questions and landcrusher's responses, it has been very educational for me.
 
Thanks man. These guys here and this forum have helped a bunch. Def a confidence boost. Makes me wanna tear the whole truck apart and document every nut and bolt with pics. I bet it would make many more guys on here dive right in.
 
Ugh seeing that makes me sick. PO was a butcher. Or had butchers work on the car :(

I'd be tempted to remove all the non-Toyota wires (except the actual speaker wires).
 
So should that be messed with and put back to factory specs???

It doesn't look bad, I'd leave it for now, but check that the connections are solid (no frayed wires under that tape).
You may want to revisit that after you're sure the dome circuit is squared away.

Code:
Is it possible that someone would feed it to the radio so that the radio/DVD could work independently of the car being on?

That is possible, but I only saw it feeding the radio's yellow wire (memory/backup circuit).

The negative battery terminal has been disconnected only.

That's good enough.


BTW, thanks for the props, the good pics (and your obvious comittment) make it easy to help out.
 
Ok fellas. I want to cruise into my local electrical shop on Friday to get that yellow gauge wire solder at the fuse block. At the moment it's wrapped with electrical tape.

I'll be honest in saying that I'm a bit scared to connect my negative battery terminal. Should I be concerned??? Or any safety ideas that I should double check before I head in???

Also I have the 10 amp dome fuse out at the fuse box in engine bay. I bought some new fuses, but haven't put one in.

Anything to consider when I put it back in besides the obvious blowing of the fuse???

Also I will be disconnecting the factory amp and the sub woofer.

What do you say fellas????

Thanks again and stay tuned.
 
As long as you've got the right size fuses in this time I'd say there's nothing to be concerned about.

I would do one last Ohm-test of the DOME circuit. This time, instead of testing at the domelight connector, test it at the fuse location. Test continuity between the fuse terminal (load side) and the (disconnected) negative battery wire. Have someone open and close the doors (with the bulbs installed) and make sure there are no shorts.

I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.
 
Funny you should say that. When at the radio installer, a few weeks back, the only reason why all this started was because I opened up the rear DS door. And the radio failed. I tried to turn on the dome lights over drivers seat. Stereo failed.

Thanks crshr for keeping fingers crossed.

Yo! I texted you. I'm in San Fran right now!!!
Cable car craziness!!!!!
 
landcrshr said:
As long as you've got the right size fuses in this time I'd say there's nothing to be concerned about. I would do one last Ohm-test of the DOME circuit. This time, instead of testing at the domelight connector, test it at the fuse location. Test continuity between the fuse terminal (load side) and the (disconnected) negative battery wire. Have someone open and close the doors (with the bulbs installed) and make sure there are no shorts. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.

Thanks for the suggestions on the next steps.
Just to make sure:

1. When I'm testing for continuity I place red probe on fuse link and black probe on a ground?

2. When testing load side, I'm assuming you are talking about the positive battery connection, and once again I'm placing red probe on battery connection and black probe on ground?

3. Disconnected battery wire? Same as #2 with red probe on negative wire connector and black on ground?
 
Sorry for the confusion. Maybe some pics will help.

The load side of the fuse is the side that goes to the domelight (the load).

Start with your meter's black lead connected to the negative batttery wire (that should still be disconnected from the battery).
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This is the battery side of the fuse:
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And this is the "load" side:
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Your meter should read open/infinity Ohms on the load side of the fuse (with the doors closed):
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Here are some numbers read with multimeter.

Red probe on the load side and touching the right hand side of the fuse and black probe on disconnected batt wire.



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Red probe on the load side and touching the left hand side of fuse and black probe on disconnected batt wire.



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What do you guys think????

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Ok fellas. Here's the latest.



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Spliced wire and connected back to the fuse block.

All my gauges are working.

I have noticed that my turn signals do not work.

I check turn fuse. Looks fine.

I have a green wire hanging. It lolls like it's hanging from behind gauge panel.



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Any way to test whether that wire is the turn signal wire??? I believe it was some how connected to all that mess of wires from before.

Thanks fellas.

Stay tuned.

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the ohm readings for the battery wires look like either you are reading the wrong thing or the terminals need cleaning, like with a wire brush.

dunno about the green wire. refer to electrical wire diagram PDF.

as for the turn signals, have you checked the blinker relay?
 
Slim. If you can elaborate and direct me to the blinker relay I will.
 
Green wire is typically the "TAIL" fuse circuit and not related to the turn signals.

Did you remember to plug the HAZARD switch back in before you buttoned up?
 
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