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How much of this wire will I have to go further back and check????
Which areas???
So am I looking for a place down that wire where the wire seems to be fine???? That way I may splice and get it to connect back to the fuse block????
I have yet to look for the black/black white wire down DS A pillar.
Any of you know where that connection leads to down the A pillar/knee/kick panel????
Going back to second row dome light. When I first bought the truck it was running a DVD system that had been taken out and only dome light connection was left ( maybe. Go back to pics above).
I decided to cut this cable because we ( my cousin) and I felt it wasn't factory and we thought it was running all the wiring for DVD system.
86tuning said:The diagnostic process is to usually remove the fuse for the circuit and replace it with a test light. This is any light bulb with a pair of wires on it that can be plugged into the fuse holder to substitute the fuse. At that point, when the key is turned on, the light will usually glow brightly. Start unplugging stuff and disconnecting stuff until the light goes out in order to find the circuit or area that's shorted. In your case, I would start with the obvious aftermarket accessory wiring.
How does this event along a 10 amp circuit that is in conjunction with radio, cig lighter, and dome lights cause a wire at the fuse box that is connected to a diff 10 amp fuse to get hot and burn???
Are they connected in some way that I don't know????
Also, could this exposed (gauge) wire, when it was still connected and touching some neighboring wires, cause disruption or some sort of interference? Or do wires that are exposed, like the (gauge) yellow wire, and touching neighboring insulated wires not an issue?