First LC

[clandestinecruz]

Hey Guys,
In the process of acquiring my first Land Cruiser this month. I am buying it from my Aunt and it has been sitting for over 6 years. Luckily she has taken good care of it and kept it covered, even had it waxed and polished while it was stored. What are some must replace items that I should add into my budget to restore this beauty?

 

[sogafarm]

Welcome! Why has it been sitting for so long?

 

[LandLocked93]

What are some must replace items that I should add into my budget to restore this beauty?

Welcome!
What is the intended use and do you wrench?
Check out the baseline threads here for a comprehensive list of items to check.
If the fluids were changed as the polishing may suggest, you may be good to start driving and take note of the condition of the rig and go from there.

 

[clandestinecruz]

I think its use will be light offroading and going out in the sonoran desert to go shooting. maybe take my boys camping eventually.
I was in the Navy as an electronic technician and currently work as an Engineer.
I can wrench well but my lack of equipment would be my biggest limiting factor. I have a jack/stands, basic mechanics tool set, and some power tools.
I have found a specialty LC shop in PHX that im thinking of having do an initial inspection to give me a starting point.

 

[clandestinecruz]

Welcome! Why has it been sitting for so long?

It was my Uncles and he ended up parking it while sick with cancer. He eventually passed away and my aunt was finally willing to sell it after about 6 years.

 

[Comet]

Welcome to the sickness. This vehicle will get into your soul and stay there for a long time. I do love the family connection but I am very sorry for your loss-my condolences.

Sitting is most time worse than driving. All the fluids have time to absorb moisture and create havoc on the vehicle. I would first focus on the vehicle being able to stop. Flush the brake system in the order recommended by the FSM (factory service manual). The gas in the tank is likely turned to something resembling varnish. Open up the top of the tank (accessible from inside the truck in the back) and get the nasty out. Change the oil, swap out the antifreeze (red vs green really doesn’t matter at this point for your purpose but I would match what was in there when you change it out), get the cobwebs and mouse droppings away from the truck. Fire it up and enjoy.

 

[clandestinecruz]

Welcome to the sickness. This vehicle will get into your soul and stay there for a long time. I do love the family connection but I am very sorry for your loss-my condolences.

Sitting is most time worse than driving. All the fluids have time to absorb moisture and create havoc on the vehicle. I would first focus on the vehicle being able to stop. Flush the brake system in the order recommended by the FSM (factory service manual). The gas in the tank is likely turned to something resembling varnish. Open up the top of the tank (accessible from inside the truck in the back) and get the nasty out. Change the oil, swap out the antifreeze (red vs green really doesn’t matter at this point for your purpose but I would match what was in there when you change it out), get the cobwebs and mouse droppings away from the truck. Fire it up and enjoy.

where can I get a good copy(hard or digital) of the FSM? also i was thinking of removing the spark plugs and boroscoping the top of the cylinders to make sure the rings havent rusted in case of any H2O that got into the cylinders (maybe head gasket went bad while sitting)

 

[clandestinecruz]

 

[ToothDr]

Dusty but very clean/intact engine bay. You still have the red cooling fan sticker on the fan duct, nice. Lots of info on mud about baselining your truck. 91 or 92?.

congrats!

 

[Road Apple]

Welcome to MUD !!
Looks like a nice truck. Great to keep it in the family. You’re aunt will likely enjoy you and your kids using it.

Baselining your truck is the place to start. You can save some money by doing the inspection yourself. There are lots of threads here on what to inspect, replace, and monitor, but here’s a list of things to consider. Baseline means different things. Some people do the minimum to get running and others do a complete restoration. Somewhere in the middle is where I’d aim for. These are general notes I’ve taken over the years. Take what you like and leave the rest.

Change all fluids so you know when they need to be changed in the future
Do front axle/knuckle rebuild/service if you don’t know its been done in less than 40K miles or you see sludge on the balls.
Potentially rear axle job
Change spark plugs and toyota wires
PCV valve and hose, vac hoses, radiator hoses, hose clamps.
PHH - Pesky Heater Hose
Check brake pads, air filter etc.
Brake lines, new calipers and rotors,
Fuel filter
Cooling system flush
Heater control valve on the firewall
Once you feel it is fully caught up, you can consider it baselined and then can schedule PM when its needed knowing its the right.

BASELINE LIST:
Change oil/filter.
Change diff/transfer oil.
Swap coolant...use the same coolant color.
Flush ATF.
Front-axle rebuild.
Rear-axle rebuild.
Differential breather relocation.
Brakes rebuilt/bled.
New rotors/pads.
Kickdown/Throttle cable adjuste
Change the fuel filter.
Universal joints change
Driveline grease
bushings change
Timing tensioner
All cooling hoses, PHH in silicone
Trans cooler lines..rubber part
New intake tube
O2 sensors
Fuel filter(it's a PITA)
Front end checkout/rebuild at least repack the wheel bearings and grease spindle shafts..
u-joints and prop shafts greased properly! and checked for wear..
Brakes service with 100 series toyota
Transmission filter ( not a flush just filter and new fluid..)
Power steering high pressure hose..
Lube window channels so power windows work well

Fluids

Motor Oil – Synthetic / Chevron Delo


Number of questions starting with an oil change - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/242258-number-questions-starting-oil-change.html

Motor Oil Guide
Oil Recommendations and Discussion Thread for FAQ - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/79305-oil-recommendations-discussion-thread-faq.html

Oil Filter – Toyota OEM 90915-20004


Differential Oil – Synthetic 80w-90 / Name brand dino


Transfer Case Oil – Synthetic 80w-90 / Name brand dino

Transmission Oil – Synthetic ATF / Name brand Dex IV
Transmission Fluid Exchange Writeup - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/19299-transmission-fluid-exchange-writeup.html

Power Steering Fluid – Mobil DTE 24 (highly recommended)
How to change Power Steering Fluid - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/78646-how-change-power-steering-fluid.html

Coolant Flush – Toyota Red
Coolant Flush Process Verification - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/107438-coolant-flush-process-verification.html


Cleaned my cooling system: the full scoop... - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/14891-cleaned-my-cooling-system-full-scoop.html

Brake fluid
Brake fluid replacement - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/14685-brake-fluid-replacement.html

Lube
Grease Knuckles – Any Moly fortified grease
Grease Zerks – Any Lithium name brand grease
grease fittings on 97 lx450 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/201098-grease-fittings-97-lx450.html

Typical Wear Items
Pesky Heater Hose (PHH) - Silicone (good one @ index)
Slee - PHH (Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser)
OEM fuel filter
OEM in-tank fuel filter "sock" (mine was NASTY)
3FE valve adjustment
Vacuum hoses
Large hoses from intake to throttle body (like to crack where you can't see them)
Air Filter - Washable OEM
3x Drive Belts – OEM
Changing your belts in 25 minutes - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/185209-changing-your-belts-25-minutes.html

PCV Hose – OEM
PCV Valve replacement - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/122133-pcv-valve-replacement.html

PCV Valve & Grommet – OEM
PCV Valve replacement - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/122133-pcv-valve-replacement.html

Spark Plugs (copper is fine) – OEM
Spark Plug Wires – OEM
Spark Plug Gaskets – OEM
Cap & Rotor – OEM

Valve Cover Gasket – OEM
valve cover+throttle body PM w/pics - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/225855-valve-cover-throttle-body-pm-w-pics.html

Pesky Heater Hose – OEM or Silicone (permanent fix)
PHH - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/6994-phh.html

Common "when time allows / as necessary / makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside" items

Brake Pads (80 or 100 series up front, 80 in back) – OEM

Clean Throttle Body
How To Take the Throttle Body Off For Cleaning - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/220474-how-take-throttle-body-off-cleaning.html
Throttle Body Gasket – OEM
Coolant hoses – OEM
Vacuum hoses - OEM

Thermostat & Gasket - OEM
Replacing Thermostat - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/2164-replacing-thermostat.html

Service fan clutch (replace silicone oil w/ 6k or 10k CST)
Fan Clutch Service - https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/167678-fan-clutch-service.html

Starter contacts & Plunger – OEM
Starter Motor Contacts

New battery (27F stock, 31M fits)
Install Success - Sears Diehard Platinum Group 31M - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/287241-install-success-sears-diehard-platinum-group-31m.html
First my thoughts on the coolant flush/fill:


There is no way I thought using the radiator plug was going to give me a good result. It is in a difficult location with plastic and foam packed all around it. Turning it without breaking the plastic plug did not seem likely. I switched to using the output hose on the bottom passenger side of the radiator. The OEM hose clamps really make life hard. Plan on replacing the OEM clamp with a screw type hose clamp after it is removed. You will be much happier especially if you are doing a flush and therefore removing it over and over.

The tip on this site to get a 2’ socket extension for the block plug was brilliant. Do not think about the fact you cannot think where you will use this 2’ extension again. I spent around 6 bucks on it and it is a no brainer. It does line up perfectly in the DS wheel well.

The draining process is messy. No other way to say that, especially from the block. I used a large plastic tub used to mix concrete and I still could not get all the fluids dripping off the block. Have plenty of shop towels handy. The good news is the more you flush, the more the mess is getting “washed” with hopefully hot water.

I was a little surprised that Mr.T’s black coolant bottles do not have a clear sight line down the bottle. That would make the measurement much easier.

Total elapsed time = 8 hours. I did the initial drain, 5 flushes and the final re-fill. Drove the truck with heaters on high for a good chunk of time then let her cool for ~ 20 minutes before each flush. Managing all the liquid involved is a large part of the process. I had to re-use all the gallon jugs from the distilled water.

Thoughts on the tune-up:
98% of this job is simple and straightforward. I started with the distributor. It is easy to reach and a very simple swap. I changed the rotor also, but my original looked perfect. The rotor pulls straight out, but I had to give it a couple gentle taps to move it. The cap looked pretty good too. My wires were stamped 1997 – so they were original. Now they say 2010.

To work on the plugs I used two 2’x4’s strapped together. I was on my knees a long time on these boards. At the end I put on my knee pads, probably should have had them on the whole time.

I removed the entire air intake from the cleaner over to the intake manifold. I also removed No.2 PCV hose and the cruise control actuator cable. Obviously the 2 covers over the plug wires, but that was it.

Removing plugs 1-5 were easy. 4 was a mild PITA because of the cables I did not remove, but not bad. The OEM spark plug tool is really the greatest thing.
#6 is as bad as everyone says. Take your time and keep your cool. Have plenty of beer on hand to give you a reason to stop and think. The heater valve hoses mounted on the firewall are the biggest PITA. I ended up squeezing the hoses toward the firewall with my right hand while I extracted the tool with my left hand.

I could use some help on this explanation. I took it out for a drive after finishing. I believe the acceleration is much snappier – more responsive. I also used to run at 2200 RPM when doing a solid 55 mph. Now it seems to be down around 1900 RPM again at 55 mph. All my plugs looked normal, in fact 1, 5 and 6 I thought looked great after comparing to other pictures I have seen. I am overinflating the benefit of the tune-up because #6 was such a PITA or is this actual?

 

[ppc]

That list of items is good but is including items like the PHH and 100 series brake pads that is applicable only to the 93-97 1FZ-FE models. The OP"s vehicle is a 91-92 with the 3FE.

 

[Azca]

If that engine has not turned over in 6 years I would not try to start it now. Pull the plugs and squirt a small amount of thin synthetic oil in each cylinder and let it sit a week or so to soak/free the rings. Then, after a week or so, with the plugs out, take a breaker bar and turn the crankshaft by hand a few revolutions to make sure it will rotate freely and easily. After that, install plugs and REMOVE the coil wire and crank it a few times (after the oil change). If it sounds good, crank it so it rotates the crank a dozen times or so. You are trying to pre-lubricate everything you can before allowing it to run. I would do that two or three times with a minute or two between cranks then let it sit overnight. Do this one more time and only then would I re-install the coil wire and allow it to run for a minute or so and then shut it down; allow it to sit and let the oil do its stuff overnight. Then I would run it no more than 500 miles and change the oil and filter, just like breaking in a newly rebuilt engine.

I would also review information online about starting any motor that has not operated for a few years before starting and alter the above accordingly.

 

[ToothDr]

You don’t have a PHH or pesky heater hose. That being said I’ll replace as much old rubber under the hood as possible. Starting with anything that has coolant on the inside.

 

[LandLocked93]

Welcome to MUD !!
Looks like a nice truck. Great to keep it in the family. You’re aunt will likely enjoy you and your kids using it.

Baselining your truck is the place to start. You can save some money by doing the inspection yourself. There are lots of threads here on what to inspect, replace, and monitor, but here’s a list of things to consider. Baseline means different things. Some people do the minimum to get running and other do a complete restoration. Somewhere in the middle is where I’d aim for. These are general notes I’ve taken over the years. Take what you like and leave the rest.

Change all fluids so you know when they need to be changed in the future
Do front axle/knuckle rebuild/service if you don’t know its been done in less than 40K miles or you see sludge on the balls.
Potentially rear axle job
Change spark plugs and toyota wires
PCV valve and hose, vac hoses, radiator hoses, hose clamps.
PHH - Pesky Heater Hose
Check brake pads, air filter etc.
Brake lines, new calipers and rotors,
Fuel filter
Cooling system flush
Heater control valve on the firewall
Once you feel it is fully caught up, you can consider it baselined and then can schedule PM when its needed knowing its the right.

BASELINE LIST:
Change oil/filter.
Change diff/transfer oil.
Swap coolant...use the same coolant color.
Flush ATF.
Front-axle rebuild.
Rear-axle rebuild.
Differential breather relocation.
Brakes rebuilt/bled.
New rotors/pads.
Kickdown/Throttle cable adjuste
Change the fuel filter.
Universal joints change
Driveline grease
bushings change
Timing tensioner
All cooling hoses, PHH in silicone
Trans cooler lines..rubber part
New intake tube
O2 sensors
Fuel filter(it's a PITA)
Front end checkout/rebuild at least repack the wheel bearings and grease spindle shafts..
u-joints and prop shafts greased properly! and checked for wear..
Brakes service with 100 series toyota
Transmission filter ( not a flush just filter and new fluid..)
Power steering high pressure hose..
Lube window channels so power windows work well

Fluids

Motor Oil – Synthetic / Chevron Delo


Number of questions starting with an oil change - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/242258-number-questions-starting-oil-change.html

Motor Oil Guide
Oil Recommendations and Discussion Thread for FAQ - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/79305-oil-recommendations-discussion-thread-faq.html

Oil Filter – Toyota OEM 90915-20004


Differential Oil – Synthetic 80w-90 / Name brand dino


Transfer Case Oil – Synthetic 80w-90 / Name brand dino

Transmission Oil – Synthetic ATF / Name brand Dex IV
Transmission Fluid Exchange Writeup - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/19299-transmission-fluid-exchange-writeup.html

Power Steering Fluid – Mobil DTE 24 (highly recommended)
How to change Power Steering Fluid - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/78646-how-change-power-steering-fluid.html

Coolant Flush – Toyota Red
Coolant Flush Process Verification - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/107438-coolant-flush-process-verification.html


Cleaned my cooling system: the full scoop... - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/14891-cleaned-my-cooling-system-full-scoop.html

Brake fluid
Brake fluid replacement - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/14685-brake-fluid-replacement.html

Lube
Grease Knuckles – Any Moly fortified grease
Grease Zerks – Any Lithium name brand grease
grease fittings on 97 lx450 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/201098-grease-fittings-97-lx450.html

Typical Wear Items
Pesky Heater Hose (PHH) - Silicone (good one @ index)
Slee - PHH (Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser)
OEM fuel filter
OEM in-tank fuel filter "sock" (mine was NASTY)
3FE valve adjustment
Vacuum hoses
Large hoses from intake to throttle body (like to crack where you can't see them)
Air Filter - Washable OEM
3x Drive Belts – OEM
Changing your belts in 25 minutes - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/185209-changing-your-belts-25-minutes.html

PCV Hose – OEM
PCV Valve replacement - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/122133-pcv-valve-replacement.html

PCV Valve & Grommet – OEM
PCV Valve replacement - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/122133-pcv-valve-replacement.html

Spark Plugs (copper is fine) – OEM
Spark Plug Wires – OEM
Spark Plug Gaskets – OEM
Cap & Rotor – OEM

Valve Cover Gasket – OEM
valve cover+throttle body PM w/pics - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/225855-valve-cover-throttle-body-pm-w-pics.html

Pesky Heater Hose – OEM or Silicone (permanent fix)
PHH - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/6994-phh.html

Common "when time allows / as necessary / makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside" items

Brake Pads (80 or 100 series up front, 80 in back) – OEM

Clean Throttle Body
How To Take the Throttle Body Off For Cleaning - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/220474-how-take-throttle-body-off-cleaning.html
Throttle Body Gasket – OEM
Coolant hoses – OEM
Vacuum hoses - OEM

Thermostat & Gasket - OEM
Replacing Thermostat - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/2164-replacing-thermostat.html

Service fan clutch (replace silicone oil w/ 6k or 10k CST)
Fan Clutch Service - https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/167678-fan-clutch-service.html

Starter contacts & Plunger – OEM
Starter Motor Contacts

New battery (27F stock, 31M fits)
Install Success - Sears Diehard Platinum Group 31M - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/287241-install-success-sears-diehard-platinum-group-31m.html
First my thoughts on the coolant flush/fill:


There is no way I thought using the radiator plug was going to give me a good result. It is in a difficult location with plastic and foam packed all around it. Turning it without breaking the plastic plug did not seem likely. I switched to using the output hose on the bottom passenger side of the radiator. The OEM hose clamps really make life hard. Plan on replacing the OEM clamp with a screw type hose clamp after it is removed. You will be much happier especially if you are doing a flush and therefore removing it over and over.

The tip on this site to get a 2’ socket extension for the block plug was brilliant. Do not think about the fact you cannot think where you will use this 2’ extension again. I spent around 6 bucks on it and it is a no brainer. It does line up perfectly in the DS wheel well.

The draining process is messy. No other way to say that, especially from the block. I used a large plastic tub used to mix concrete and I still could not get all the fluids dripping off the block. Have plenty of shop towels handy. The good news is the more you flush, the more the mess is getting “washed” with hopefully hot water.

I was a little surprised that Mr.T’s black coolant bottles do not have a clear sight line down the bottle. That would make the measurement much easier.

Total elapsed time = 8 hours. I did the initial drain, 5 flushes and the final re-fill. Drove the truck with heaters on high for a good chunk of time then let her cool for ~ 20 minutes before each flush. Managing all the liquid involved is a large part of the process. I had to re-use all the gallon jugs from the distilled water.

Thoughts on the tune-up:
98% of this job is simple and straightforward. I started with the distributor. It is easy to reach and a very simple swap. I changed the rotor also, but my original looked perfect. The rotor pulls straight out, but I had to give it a couple gentle taps to move it. The cap looked pretty good too. My wires were stamped 1997 – so they were original. Now they say 2010.

To work on the plugs I used two 2’x4’s strapped together. I was on my knees a long time on these boards. At the end I put on my knee pads, probably should have had them on the whole time.

I removed the entire air intake from the cleaner over to the intake manifold. I also removed No.2 PCV hose and the cruise control actuator cable. Obviously the 2 covers over the plug wires, but that was it.

Removing plugs 1-5 were easy. 4 was a mild PITA because of the cables I did not remove, but not bad. The OEM spark plug tool is really the greatest thing.
#6 is as bad as everyone says. Take your time and keep your cool. Have plenty of beer on hand to give you a reason to stop and think. The heater valve hoses mounted on the firewall are the biggest PITA. I ended up squeezing the hoses toward the firewall with my right hand while I extracted the tool with my left hand.

I could use some help on this explanation. I took it out for a drive after finishing. I believe the acceleration is much snappier – more responsive. I also used to run at 2200 RPM when doing a solid 55 mph. Now it seems to be down around 1900 RPM again at 55 mph. All my plugs looked normal, in fact 1, 5 and 6 I thought looked great after comparing to other pictures I have seen. I am overinflating the benefit of the tune-up because #6 was such a PITA or is this actual?

Forgot step 6

 

[UsedLuxury]

Check out Copper State Cruisers. Lot of 80 owners in the area. Nice rig. Welcome to mud.

 

[Fairgame]

If that engine has not turned over in 6 years I would not try to start it now. Pull the plugs and squirt a small amount of thin synthetic oil in each cylinder and let it sit a week or so to soak/free the rings. Then, after a week or so, with the plugs out, take a breaker bar and turn the crankshaft by hand a few revolutions to make sure it will rotate freely and easily. After that, install plugs and REMOVE the coil wire and crank it a few times (after the oil change). If it sounds good, crank it so it rotates the crank a dozen times or so. You are trying to pre-lubricate everything you can before allowing it to run. I would do that two or three times with a minute or two between cranks then let it sit overnight. Do this one more time and only then would I re-install the coil wire and allow it to run for a minute or so and then shut it down; allow it to sit and let the oil do its stuff overnight. Then I would run it no more than 500 miles and change the oil and filter, just like breaking in a newly rebuilt engine.

I would also review information online about starting any motor that has not operated for a few years before starting and alter the above accordingly.

Excellent advice. Change all oils, new fuel and take her for a ride. Make sure the brakes are functioning.

 

[Comet]

FSM hard copy on Amazon or EBay. Digital copy is floating around MUD. A must read is the FAQ section in the 80 section. It will summarize and organize a lot of the process used by others before you. Any, and I mean any, procedure has been discussed in great detail on this forum. Best of luck on this adventure and post more pictures. Ha ha!!