Finishes used for Cargo Storage Boxes (1 Viewer)

[CharlieS]

I'm trying to decide how I want to finish my Reef drawers and am looking for ideas.

I've considered paint, stain, truck bed liner, and carpet.

Any recommendations (ideally with photos)?

I came across a rubberized textured coating called Tuff Coat that looks promising. Tuff Coat | Worlds #1 Rubberized Non-Skid

 

[shelby95]

Raptorliner? Land shark once had a section with customers’ different finishes, handles, modifications, etc. I haven’t been able to locate it after the move from KISS to REEF.

 

[619TOY]

Two votes for Line-X. Am I allowed two votes? I’ve done both of my drawer/rear storage build outs in Line-X it’s super industrial, non-snag and super low maintenance. I prefer to pay to have it applied as I really love the genuine Line-X texture.

 

[KLF]

I think Line-X (or a similar DIY product) is a great solution.

I made a "deck" insert for my truck that replaces the 2nd row seats, for a big road trip I took back in January. It basically extended my ARB drawers all the way to just behind the back of the front seats, gave me a 6' flat area. I found some pre-cut carpet at Home Depot, I think it was 6x8 or so, in a nice dark gray. I used some Gorilla spray adhesive to stick it down, and it really worked out much better than I expected, for not much $$. It's thin enough that you can wrap it round edges and curves, but enough nap that you can hide seams and joints. I like how it keeps stuff from sliding around, just like the carpet on the ARBs. Best picture I have (it's not currently installed):

 

[Markuson]

I'm trying to decide how I want to finish my Reef drawers and am looking for ideas.

I've considered paint, stain, truck bed liner, and carpet.

Any recommendations (ideally with photos)?

I came across a rubberized textured coating called Tuff Coat that looks promising. Tuff Coat | Worlds #1 Rubberized Non-Skid

I like carpet because things are less inclined to freely slide around if not secured...screws are less likely to roll off if using as a hatch work surface...plus velcro attaches to it. Carpet FTW!

 

[Bendcruiser]

I know Dave @landsharkoutfitters and the Reef drawers are superb. If I hadn't built mine before he had the 200 series ready I'd be an owner. That said I covered mine with heavy-duty felt. I like the look and it was EZ to do.

 

[CharlieS]

I like the idea of a painted on covering. Carpet may be easier and more practical?

Line-X looks sweet. Unfortunately, we don't have a local (like anywhere within hours) Line-X franchise. The former Line-X dealer is now a local franchise for Rhinoliner or something like that, which is thicker, and they wanted like $300+ to do a pair of sliders, so I'm sure a cargo area box would be similarly expensive. I think the thickness would create clearance issues for the drawer fronts. And to be completely honest, that's more money than I want to spend. I went with the Reef drawers as a low cost alternative. I love the high end stuff, but can't justify spending on it.

I have some black automotive carpet (I bought a big roll when I did my Trail Tailor decklid) that I can try out. But, I have some hesitation because I don't know:

• Do I do the top and wings as one piece? Or do the wings separately... I worry about the wing to case gap/clearance if I do them separately (trim the inside edge of the wings on the table saw to create clearance? No fun.).
• If I use 3M contact cement on it, will it mess up the wood surface so I can't use a painted coating in the future (is there any way to mitigate this, or is it a stupid concern?)
• How do I wrap it around corners neatly (maybe there is help on Youtube)
• Clearance at the drawer fronts... won't there be two layers of carpet where it would need to wrap into the drawer opening - the drawer face and the cabinet (I suppose I could trim the perimeter of the drawer faces down with the table saw if I had to... but, again, no fun.)
• If I do the top as one piece, how to deal with the hinged area (when open, the gap is quite large, so maybe I would need to mask off a wide band when applying contact cement and remove it before applying the carpet, allowing that part to float

 

[grinchy]

I would suggest a floor covering. Linoleum, wood planking, glue down vinyl, astroturf, carpet etc. For the sq ft needed this is begging for a remnant or half box of something.

I think the best would be glue down cork. Light, silent and sound absorbing, hard wearing, and it looks amazing.

 

[Mawgie]

For a DIY alternative to Line-X or RhinoLiner, you might consider Herculiner. It is available at big box autopart stores or online. Roll on/brush on application. I believe the texture is by way of ground up rubber in the mix. I have done two full size pickup beds with it and, as long as you do good prep work and put on multiple layers, it is plenty thick, very durable. Mine seemed every bit as durable as Line-X and RhinoLiner, but I did put it on thicker than the instructions said. I have also owned a Rhino-lined truck and buddies have Line-X. The Herculiner is harder and the texture is more coarse. Overall, though, a very good product. About $100 for more than enough to do drawers inside and out. (To get it on nice and even requires a bit of finesse with the rollers, but multiple lighter layers allows you to fill in thin spots so it looks pro grade when finished. Comes in black, red, grey and white.

Raptorliner is also supposed to be great, and goes on similar to Herculiner. I haven't used it.

 

[619TOY]

I have some black automotive carpet. But, I have some hesitation because I don't know:

There are a ton of "automotive" type carpets available. The stuff I prefer has little to no actual backing (hard, rubber, etc.) It's a little more prone to fraying, but easier to work with on corners and seams.

Do I do the top and wings as one piece? Or do the wings separately... I worry about the wing to case gap/clearance if I do them separately (trim the inside edge of the wings on the table saw to create clearance? No fun.).

I would do it in a single piece like you reference below if and only if you do a practice run to see if it'll work with cabinet hinges and you're ok with how everything looks and operates. If it's a no go, trimming the wings down for carpet clearance should be pretty easy with a jigsaw. But you'll have to drill appropriately spaced new hinge mounting holes too. I don't think you want to have to trim the straight hinge sides of the wings. I don't think you'd be removing enough material to use the table saw. So not safe in addition to being not fun...

If I use 3M contact cement on it, will it mess up the wood surface so I can't use a painted coating in the future (is there any way to mitigate this, or is it a stupid concern?)

Yes, it'll pretty much be a done deal and you'll probably never want to go to the effort of removing the glue and carpet debris in the future. The best glue to use is automotive upholstery contact cement. You can paint it on with brush, let it completely dry and then apply carpet to wood. If you go with 3M in a can, try to use the 74, not the 77. 74 sprays in a really nice adjustable pattern. Same thing, spray both surfaces, let it dry to the touch (a few minutes) and apply carpet to wood. Probably best to be firmly set on your finish preference prior to carpeting.

How do I wrap it around corners neatly (maybe there is help on Youtube)

This will depend on the carpet. With stiff carpet, sometimes you're better off cutting at corners and using a corner edging to hold it down and protect it. corner edging cam be plastic or metal. An upholstery stapler can be a great asset too.

Clearance at the drawer fronts... won't there be two layers of carpet where it would need to wrap into the drawer opening - the drawer face and the cabinet (I suppose I could trim the perimeter of the drawer faces down with the table saw if I had to... but, again, no fun.)

Designing or modifying for the correct clearances is going to be necessary with pretty much anything other than stain or paint. Maybe thin, hand applied bed liner too.

If I do the top as one piece, how to deal with the hinged area (when open, the gap is quite large, so maybe I would need to mask off a wide band when applying contact cement and remove it before applying the carpet, allowing that part to float

Yes and no. I've done this many times and it usually works quite well (and looks better). I've masked a strip about 2" wide with great results, but it may depend on your carpet. It's just a little tricky on the ends where you need to cut the carpet just to the hinge point and allow it to "pucker" when the wings are opened. I've always done it with piano hinges and unfortunately it may not work with cabinetry hinges

Maybe Landshark has some advice and helpful hints and some pics of examples of finished boxes?

 

[CharlieS]

Thanks for the replies and great details. I appreciate it.

 

[indycole]

Another product worth looking into is Monstaliner with a Chassis Saver undercoating. Beware that this stuff needs some time to off-gas... especially the Chassis Saver. It's DIY and second-best to Line-X, IMO.

 

[tbisaacs]

Carpet may be easier and more practical

Do you have a dog? If so I would steer clear. My drawers are carpet and basically just serve to collect hair at this point.

 

[KLF]

Another product worth looking into is Monstaliner with a Chassis Saver undercoating. Beware that this stuff needs some time to off-gas... especially the Chassis Saver. It's DIY and second-best to Line-X, IMO.

I've used both of these products and YES they are really good. Put it on both front & rear bumpers on my mini-truck (after I had them sand blasted), that was in 2013, and AFAIK the stuff is still doing well. You have to follow the rules about mixing, timing, and use their special applicator roller that gives it the stippled finish. Very durable stuff, especially if they would be out of the weather.

It's not a smooth finish, but it's not very a rough texture, either. I would be concerned about stuff sliding around, you would have to tie it all down. You could possibly add chewed up rubber bits, sand, or maybe walnut husks to gain some traction.

Lots of info here: Monstaliner Bedliner

 

[CharlieS]

Do you have a dog? If so I would steer clear. My drawers are carpet and basically just serve to collect hair at this point.

Yes, three pooches.

 

[prharper]

I've used both of these products and YES they are really good. Put it on both front & rear bumpers on my mini-truck (after I had them sand blasted), that was in 2013, and AFAIK the stuff is still doing well. You have to follow the rules about mixing, timing, and use their special applicator roller that gives it the stippled finish. Very durable stuff, especially if they would be out of the weather.

It's not a smooth finish, but it's not very a rough texture, either. I would be concerned about stuff sliding around, you would have to tie it all down. You could possibly add chewed up rubber bits, sand, or maybe walnut husks to gain some traction.

Lots of info here: Monstaliner Bedliner

I went with Raptor liner and added Monstaliner tint. The only thing I don't like is that things do slide around on top of the drawers because of the textured finish. I didn't have this problem with my old drawers that had carpet on top. All a trade off.....

 

[wiseinvestor]

Another product worth looking into is Monstaliner with a Chassis Saver undercoating. Beware that this stuff needs some time to off-gas... especially the Chassis Saver. It's DIY and second-best to Line-X, IMO.

I am currently doing a project and this is exactly what I settled on. Monstaliner with a Chassis Saver undercoating. I will update my thoughts once complete. I will say that after I bought my supplies I came across Raptor liner and really considered switching directions. However I will move forward with my current plan.

 

[CharlieS]

I thought chassis saver was for saving rusty frames?

 

[KLF]

I thought chassis saver was for saving rusty frames?

It's a general purpose primer as well. Helps the Monstaliner stick.

 

[wiseinvestor]

I thought chassis saver was for saving rusty frames?

You are correct. I am no expert on this, but from my limited youtube wikipedia "research"... some bedliner products are designed to go on metal and not wood. The Chassis saver acts as a suitable primer for the bedliner.