- Thread starter
- #21
Choke Opener:
Finally started my desmog. Updated with baseline vacuum routing drawings
- Thread starter Infinity00
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
I didn’t draw up the HIC/HAI circuit. It stays the same as before the desmog. It gets vacuum from the Tee of the PCV - and I need to research this part, but when it acts as a hot idle compensator, “Someone” smart on here has said it increase rpms to turn WP and fan more quickly to cool by means of adding a bit of air to the intake. So i think it opens and adds air directly to the intake where the PCV attaches at the bottom of the carb.
Prior to thinking this through, I was thinking about giving it a cleaner source of vacuum, like my unused port on the gas filter but now I realize that wouldn’t work as well.
Prior to thinking this through, I was thinking about giving it a cleaner source of vacuum, like my unused port on the gas filter but now I realize that wouldn’t work as well.
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- Thread starter
- #23
Pictures of vacuum hose routing before putting air cleaner on (the lighting kinda sucks):
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- #24
Passenger side vacuum routing:
- Thread starter
- #25
Jim’s brass plug replacing egr:
And silicone hose with homemade plug to go over exhaust check valve. May not technically be needed, but this way it stays clean and ready when I have to smog it again:
And silicone hose with homemade plug to go over exhaust check valve. May not technically be needed, but this way it stays clean and ready when I have to smog it again:
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- #26
Fired right up and sounds amazing! No clacks, squeals, whistling, or whining anymore! No exhaust overwhelm when I have my head in the engine bay. Also, no increase in vacuum, something I was hoping for. Still so excited!
I forgot my burping funnel so I did it the old fashioned way and will do it properly with the lisle funnel tomorrow, and then will drive it to test if there is improvement in driving.
All together again with lots more room:
I forgot my burping funnel so I did it the old fashioned way and will do it properly with the lisle funnel tomorrow, and then will drive it to test if there is improvement in driving.
All together again with lots more room:
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Looks good. So much more stuff in there than mine. Glad you can make headway of the smog components! I like the inline temp sensor on the upper rad hose.
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- #28
Yeah, I kept the HAC and I don’t have the nice clean look the city racer carb gives.
It would be cleaner too if I hadn’t re-used the smog bracket on the drivers side fender - and I left a couple of the vsv valves but I’m not using them. Just a safe place to keep them.
Headway, or headache! That s*** was tough to figure out even with all the great posts to work thru. It literally took months to complete everything including creating and understanding the drawings.
Thanks for the response Felicity!
It would be cleaner too if I hadn’t re-used the smog bracket on the drivers side fender - and I left a couple of the vsv valves but I’m not using them. Just a safe place to keep them.
Headway, or headache! That s*** was tough to figure out even with all the great posts to work thru. It literally took months to complete everything including creating and understanding the drawings.
Thanks for the response Felicity!
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- #29
After 5 years it’s time to put the smog components back on to pass emissions and then get my 5 year plate registered again. Wish me luck!
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- #30
Need one of these air rail unions. Appears I twisted one off in the removal phase 5 years ago
If you can’t find a used one, just plug the broken nozzle with something that will take the heat (bolt?) and install it all the way at the back. Plug the air rail nozzle too that mates to it. It’s invisible back there under the air cleaner. Can’t be seen.
I inadvertently twisted off my air injection nozzle on the ai mainifold that mated to mine on #6 but luckily it was a clean twist and air tight. Didn’t leak. I didn’t have a functioning #6 air injection nozzle for 20 years and the cruiser passed CA smog tests every time. Easily.
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- #32
Thanks for the feedback @OSS I trust your opinion a lot. So I think what I’ll do is put the blocking plug back in number 6, that was in during the desmog (farthest back) and since I can’t use the air rail on 6 due to the union being broken off inside the nut, I’ll cut it off just behind the nut and fold over the small pipe nozzle then solder or braze it closed. I’ll let you know how my emission goes after that.
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- #33
We finally got a nice day, no wind and some sun, so I started to put the air nozzles back in, but first I just had to twist apart the air rail while trying to get the old check valve off, to put my newish one back on. If anyone has a decent air rail with the check valve already off let me know. My last nice day for a while….before the next winter storm hits us.
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- #34
Cut and pinched #6. I think it’s going to be good enough. I’m using my original that had the broken off nozzle embedded in #6 not the rail that I bought for backup and then twisted apart.
I got a nice air rail I’d sell. I took it down to bare metal and clear coated it. All fittings are good. No check valve though.
Dang, I wish I had seen this thread back when I desmogged my truck a year and a half ago or so. I was in a bad place personally and had to get rid of any spare parts I couldn’t fit in the back of the truck along with all my personal belongings. I had an entire smog set up. I would have dropped it off to you had I known…
