Finally ready to join LC community with a 200-Series, looking for advice (1 Viewer)

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mycars

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Hello 200-Series Owners,

I have been wanting to join the LC community for a couple years now and was originally planning on starting with a 100-Series LC. I did a ton of research in the 100-Series forums and even paid for a PPI on a 100 out west but decided it wasn't the right one for me. After further thought, I realized a 200-Series LC would be a better fit with the 2013-15 LC being the perfect Goldilocks zone- solid towing capacity for a future overland trailer, dynamic radar cruise control for long drives on the interstate, and in a lower price range than the newer, 2016+ facelift rigs.

All that being said, I am finally ready to purchase a 200 and would appreciate some direction on what to look for. I know some of the common issues with the 100 were heater Ts, radiator hose, and timing belt (I believe). I'm guessing the 2013+LCs have timing chains instead of belts, is that correct?

I tried to search the 200 forum for "common problems" or "PPI" but didn't come up with much for some reason (user error, I'm sure). Can anyone point me to some helpful threads for things to look for and consider, other than no rust, when purchasing a 200?

Thank you very much, and I look forward to LC ownership soon!
Mike
 
The radiator will go eventually, when it does replace it with the redesigned 2018.5+ version, OEM only here. Timing chains on the 200, it doesn't require much in the first 250K. The '13-15 200 is a good one, best of luck with your search.
 
Check Dallas Craigslist. A few. No affiliation. Just addiction.
 
The radiator will go eventually, when it does replace it with the redesigned 2018.5+ version, OEM only here. Timing chains on the 200, it doesn't require much in the first 250K. The '13-15 200 is a good one, best of luck with your search.
@Tex68w thank you very much! Is there a rough time frame of when the radiator goes? 100k, 150k miles? Is that something most people do as preventive maintenance at a certain time?
 
I think most let go by 150K, you'll see the signs of the crack on the top corner with residue. No need to replace until that time comes, it's not an expensive part, just a PITA to replace. Search for a clean, rust free truck, stay on top of the maintenance and enjoy.
 
I think most let go by 150K, you'll see the signs of the crack on the top corner with residue. No need to replace until that time comes, it's not an expensive part, just a PITA to replace. Search for a clean, rust free truck, stay on top of the maintenance and enjoy.
Awesome, thank you very much.
 
200 is the best vehicle I've ever owned, and I've owned lots of them! Good luck in your search. Patience, grasshopper. :)
 
Purchase advice is a super common theme on Mud. It helps to search Mud using Google. Just put ih8mud in the search line, along with 200 land cruiser and your specific question.

You'll find a bunch of useful info in the forum FAQs thread, especially post #3.

 
Purchase advice is a super common theme on Mud. It helps to search Mud using Google. Just put ih8mud in the search line, along with 200 land cruiser and your specific question.

You'll find a bunch of useful info in the forum FAQs thread, especially post #3.

This is great! Thank you very much.
 
For context I spent $40k 3.5 years ago for a bone stock 105k mile 2013 that was equally as clean..
Thanks for the context, definitely helpful. I know this is currently a seller's market so I'm not surprised about the price of $50k. Is it crazy to think it is reasonable considering the mods that have been done - suspension, sliders, skid plate, etc.? I appreciate any and all honest feedback.
 
Thanks for the context, definitely helpful. I know this is currently a seller's market so I'm not surprised about the price of $50k. Is it crazy to think it is reasonable considering the mods that have been done - suspension, sliders, skid plate, etc.? I appreciate any and all honest feedback.
Take the cost of those mods plus labor on the same vehicle and yeah it seems reasonable. But you aren’t getting those mods brand new, and it only applies if they are exactly what you want.

For instance two of the tires don’t have much tread for an AT.

I’ll be the first to say if it doesn’t have any rust, you want it and can afford it, buy it. It’s hard to go wrong purchasing a clean example of a 200-series cruiser.. and anything approaching a halfway decent deal will go very quick. Most of us end up loving these things more than we predicted.

Anyone willing and capable of spending 50k on an 8yr old vehicle with 100k miles is an outlier.. if it fits your planned mod list.. get after it.
 
Mods are subjective, what one guy sees value in the next might see as a detriment. There's zero book value in aftermarket mods, any value placed atop of the book value is solely at the discretion of the buyer and seller and it's obvious that the latter cares more. I always factor in those values when I list my vehicles, I usually list it at 50% of the original cost of the mods and if I can net 25% in the end I call that a win.

The particular truck you're looking at is no doubt clean and the lift is a top tier option but it along with the sliders in no way adds another $10K to the price. It is currently a sellers market and these 200 Series Cruisers are bringing 10-25% over their book values which are also up, so I don't fault the seller for listing it where he did, but IMHO it shouldn't sell for that much. That said, this isn't my fight so I won't go any further in regards to price. Don't get too attached to any one vehicle, there will always be others.
 
@bloc and @Tex68w , thank you for the wise advice. That is exactly the kind of input I am looking for and one of the many things I appreciate about enthusiast communities like MUD. Thanks much.
 
I was in a similar place a year or so ago; I was looking for a 100 series but the prices were so close to 200 series, I pivoted to that. I also was originally looking for an LX with radar cruise. I ended up getting one without radar cruise and am glad I did. There are several threads on it here, it's not the most refined radar cruise system - I haven't missed it at all after 14k miles in the last 6 months. I'd consider being flexible on that option, if you find one you like without it.
 
I was in a similar place a year or so ago; I was looking for a 100 series but the prices were so close to 200 series, I pivoted to that. I also was originally looking for an LX with radar cruise. I ended up getting one without radar cruise and am glad I did. There are several threads on it here, it's not the most refined radar cruise system - I haven't missed it at all after 14k miles in the last 6 months. I'd consider being flexible on that option, if you find one you like without it.
It can be disabled temporarily and many of us do that every time we use cruise, but yes it is clunky. One of the most annoying things is only being able to adjust cruising speed in 5mph increments, vs 1mph in “dumb” cruise.
 
@beer and @bloc , thank you for the insight on the radar cruise. I was not aware of those aspects of the system, and that is very helpful to know.
 
Keep in mind that is not the case with all years of the 200 series. I actually didn't even know that about the earlier gen radar cruise controls, but on my 2021 I can set the radar at whatever speed I want. It is definitely not the most refined system compared to others in regards to distance and how long it takes to register no cars in front when moving to pass, but I thought it worked exceptionally well on a recent 2500 mile road trip I just did. Not saying that is solely worth considering a facelifted 200, but it is definitely food for thought
 

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