Looks great.
Finally pulled the trigger on the lift (4" progressive)
- Thread starter Alexbv
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are those the $500 dollar wheels? if so what brand and size are they i am ordering them today!
I haven't had a chance to take it on the dirt and give it a real shake down yet but finally got the shoes !
http://alexbv.smugmug.com/Other/Lexus/20737697_8qbmKM#!i=2129536339&k=stwMvbQ&lb=1&s=A
http://alexbv.smugmug.com/Other/Lexus/20737697_8qbmKM#!i=2129547062&k=v8sRq8v&lb=1&s=A
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
I know where the comment on the arms & spring perches come from and I would still like to see a drawing to explain that. For any given caster correction, the spring perches has to be at the same angle. There is no way to change that relationship without cutting something off the axle and rewelding it.
With the truck sitting on the tires, and at a specific angle of caster then the axle housing has to be in the same position in terms of rotation. Does not matter how the axle is connected to the frame at that point and at what position the control arm is. It is not going to affect any of the angles. The only difference with the LT plates that you drill and the ones that rotate on the rear hole is that the there is a small movement of the axle housing backwards.
See https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=3928101&postcount=29
You can simply not have the same caster angles in both types of correction, sitting on the same tires and have the axle in a different spot in terms of rotation. Yes, caster plates have the drawback of change in the perch angle without addressing the effective shortening of the arm due to lift. That bows the spring.
Are those TJM's a true 4" lift? All I can find is their 3.5" HD lift. Who's selling them?
sleeoffroad said:
Precisely, I think we understand each other - we're talking about the same thing. My complaint isn't that the perches aren't relatively parallel,or in the same plane, but that they aren't in line vertically. With or without caster correction, simply installing taller springs will cause the radius arm to drop away from their original "neutral", if you will, position. Obviously the spring perches will never travel in a linear path relative to each other because the radius arm provides a fixed arc.
Installing slightly longer or stiffer springs alone may not cause noticeable or problematic, spring bowing and/or binding, but like you say, caster plates - at least the type I installed - exasperate this radius arm "shortening" because they rotate the axle backwards away from the fixed upper perch to correct caster. Not surprisingly I didn't notice the spring interfering with the bump stops until after I installed the caster plates.
As you stated at this point, you would have to cut the lower perches off and re-weld them further forward on the axle to correct the exaggerated longitudinal parallel offset of the spring perches. The other option would be to use longer radius arms to move the axle forward, much in the same way that adjustable pan hard rods have the effect of compensating for lateral parallel perch offset. Hopefully through proper placement of the axle locating holes, the arms would also correct caster.
I would imagine that much taller springs would require longer radius arms to correct this problem, I'm guessing that's why your six inch lift comes with replacement radius arms, which must be at least slightly longer than stock. I just didn't envision running into this problem with a four inch lift. That may change a little when I add front end weight to effectively pre-load the springs, bringing the radius arms back up and the perches closer into alignment, but the change won't be dramatic enough to provide adequate clearance, and even if it does the springs will have the same problem the moment the suspension travels downward. Hardly ideal with a four wheel drive vehicle that is supposed to have proper suspension flex.
So to correct the "problem", which it really is in my case, I'm going to need longer radius arms with proper caster correction for the height of my lift, or perhaps, the "drill in place" type of caster plates you mention above. I would tend to correct the problem with radius arms though. I realize that caster plates are more popular probably due to cost, and maybe not everyone ends up with the same interference problem that I have, but having known this from the start I would have just bought new radius arms.
I would think that your radius arms that come with your six inch lift kit would be too much for my four inch lift, but I believe Extreme Land Cruiser offers radius arms in various lengths to suit different lift heights, hopefully with properly corresponding caster correction.
The problem with caster plates, is they lower the centre point of force (deflection) away from the axle centre. Increasing the angle of the arms back to the chassi. Giving it a unnatural and terrible feeling. Caster correction arms are 10 times better. And they should space your diff forward for the given lift, restoring factory location from lower to upper perchs.
Can't go past superior engineering arms. Or... Flip it and high steer. I've just punched out a few housings for 4" lifts. And socal will be do these in the US soon.
Can't go past superior engineering arms. Or... Flip it and high steer. I've just punched out a few housings for 4" lifts. And socal will be do these in the US soon.
davegonz said:
I kind of wondered that too, Extreme Landcruiser advertises a TJM lift of 4 inches but I didn't see any other vendor that sold a kit as such. It appears that my truck is sitting higher. I based my decision partly on the OP's results because I liked the stance his kit offered.
When I spoke with Ryan at Extreme Landcruiser I asked whether the progressive springs would be a good idea for me, I liked the idea of a ride that offered increasing firmness with a corresponding load increase. I explained how I intend to load my Cruiser however, and I was advised to go with the regular, linear springs. I currently have a dual swing out Kaymar with spare tire/can holder, an ARB front bumper with winch (not yet mounted), INTI roof rack, and I plan for sliders.
I can't find the 4" kit on Extreme Landcruiser's site, it's weird, I swear it was listed, but I did run out to the shop to check the box. The sticker shows 4" "comfort" springs, linear, in black.
Edit...
Okay, staring me in the face right on the main page, anyway here's the link...
http://extremelandcruiser.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=88&products_id=237
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Although there is a difference between progressive and flexi coils. Which aren't that well known, or popular in the US yet. Anyone who advises against these coils, clearly hasn't tested or ran them. Alot of bad advice floating around. They are really that good! And sh$t all over linear. Ask delancy. He will find out more and more what they are capable of.
Edit. Just read the link. Re:Australia I'd like to dispell a few myths
. Tjm suspension is not very popular here. We dont drink or even sell fosters here. And we don't call them shrimp - they are prawns
Edit. Just read the link. Re:Australia I'd like to dispell a few myths
. Tjm suspension is not very popular here. We dont drink or even sell fosters here. And we don't call them shrimp - they are prawns
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TheBigBoy said:Australia I'd like to dispell a few myths
Please don't tell me that koala's don't put sun tan lotion on women at the beach, or all I love about the Australian dream (like drinking Foster's while playing rugby, awaiting shrimp in the Barbie to cool) will be ruined. Bahahaha.
Do call them bunny burners though, right?
shibubba
Maximum Effort
From all installs I have seen. The tjm 4" lift coils are not progressive. Can anyone verify this?
That's the whole kit and not the springs by themselves. I can only find the 3.5" and 5" springs.
shibubba
Maximum Effort
PN 770FRC480B is the 4" lift spring. Both the TJM usa and TJM oz sites have this part listed as a 4" spring...again I do NOT think these are progressive springs. I have searched for a whole now and all photos I have seen... They are linear springs.
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That is correct, TJM only provides progressive coils for the 2.5". All of their 4" coils are linear. I called TJM directly and that is what they told me when I was researching my lift.
davegonz said:
If it's just springs you're after they might still be able to help you, taken from the same page listed in the link above...
"If you are interested in any of these components separate, please contact us for price. We can also modify this set to suit your needs with your choice of substiution. Please contact us for price."
Exactly, while the shortening effect is less than 1/2" it is just enough to be problematic on some trucks. I thick it has to do with how much the springs are compressed from the weight of the truck. More weight will bow the spring slightly more and possibly avoid the issue.
- Thread starter
- #57
OP Here
Correct !, when Steve from Dependable Offroad called to order the 4" inch kit to install in my truck, TJM's customer service person asked if we wanted the progressive springs which sounded weird because they don't show them in their website but that site looks unfinished anyway so we went for it. (A few days later during installation Steve realized they were linear and a different TJM rep confirmed that)
During that order phone call they also asked if I wanted the adjustable shock which sounded great but we also realized after installation that they only gave us 2" of droop and they are for a 2" lift.
(Just swapped them this weekend for the longer shocks) The kit was also missing a front PS brake line for which they sold me a second DS line but we now know that PS has different ends but they weren't aware
(Ordered some custom steel braided lines from G and J in Ontario, CA and where made in 2 minutes)I also asked them if I should extend bump stops while the springs were out but they said that wasn't necessary with their 4" kit.
When I visited them in person It was clear that they weren't as familiar with our 80's as I thought they would be but they are working on it and they were for the most part very helpful with the wrong items we got and installed and I like the quality of their products.
I was trying to go the less expensive way plus they are close to me but If I were to do it again I would make it easy on myself and go with the 4" kit from Slee since it has pretty much all the parts I need to do it right and after talking to them a couple of times is clear that they know 80's.
I still have to deal with a caster problem (besides of wrong caster bushing), bump stops, sway bar brackets and when caster is corrected a drive shaft will most likely be needed.
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- Thread starter
- #58
These are the ProComp 7069 17X9 and they are on sale for 139.99 ea at 4wheel parts
Awesome thanks, no spacers right?
- Thread starter
- #60
Exactly, I was trying to stay away from spacers and make them stick out a little more. These have 6mm offset plus stick out 1/4 inch more than stock since they are 9" vs stock 8"
