Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe

[Oaks]

Problem is that I have no AI system anymore, I am completely desmogged. Otherwise I would immediately go after the valves on the air rail like you said as they are a main culprit (and I think one of mine was completely rusted through).

Just got back from the park with the dogs and no tick again this morning. This is seriously confounding to me. Gonna be putting on my tranny skid plate later so I will check the block off then.

For the most part I always have the tick. Sometimes I don't and I love hoew quiet the cruiser is. I wish I was more help. I posted the same question a few months back but didn't get my decent advice. Thought maybe it was speedo but like you said it changes with rpm.

If I am cruising at a decent speed an lightly let off gas I can really hear it because the engine is not muffling it..

 

[gregnash]

Finally got the cleaning and painting of the skid plate finished this week before Thanksgiving. Today I finally got a chance to get to it but ran into an issue. When I originally got the truck I found that the plate was only mounted by two bolts (there are a total of 5 with 3 on drivers side and 2 on passenger) because the rest were busted off in their respective holes.

Well thanks to my BIL and buddy I got some new toys. The BIL, who is a master plumber and I had been talking about what tool brand to get and was looking to get either Dewalt or Porter Cable, just looking for something cheap at the time. Well he is a BIG Milwaukee fan and ended up showing up at my house with a late birthday present.
Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

This really ended up coming in handy as I went to HD to grab a screw extractor set and some drill bits for the impact and well, one busted extractor later and two smaller bits I said screw it and just completely drilled out the busted bolts. They were so rusted in there that they did move slightly but took so much force to move them that the extractors just broke. Luckily I had an SAE tap and die set from a while back and just tapped the holes so that I could use them to mount the stupid plate.

Then talking with my buddy who just bought a new house with a huge barn as his work space he gave me a new toy, his 16gallon craftsman air compressor to "mount tubeless tires with" on our mountain bikes (of course he bought a 60gallon standing unit for the barn).
Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Now just need to get some new toys for the compressor, like a small 3" cut-off wheel (since I already have a die grinder) and possibly impact gun and air hammer (to take off the damn TREs that I have a feeling are going to be a bitch).

 

[gregnash]

Oil pressure sending unit, do these normally just fail or will they fail slowly? Twice in the last years time (or slightly less) I have had my oil pressure gauge completely stop working while I was out driving. This of course happens when I am actually moving but have zero change in the vehicle power, rpm, etc. and then either a few days or a few minutes later it starts working again. Last year it did this and was down for about 2days, just long enough for me to start looking for the replacement part only to come out one morning and have it working again. Last week this happened as well, just randomly headed home from work and as I am pulling away from a stop sign I see that I have zero pressure on the gauge.

Weird part was that it would then flutter and start to come back up and then drop and then slowly come back up to normal setting, then drop. Of course my ride home is fairly short so I got to the house and went through the engine compartment with nothing apparent. Next morning the gauge is working just fine and has been since.

So will the sending unit slowly fail on me? Just did an oil change a few weeks ago and nothing came out in the oil to make it look like the oil pump is getting clogged and there has not been any sudden oil loss. In that area though there is a small oil leak somewhere that I have yet to find, the front 3rd is constantly wet with oil as it the oil cooler, sending unit, and the lines right around that area but there is NEVER a drip on the ground. I think it may be coming from my side cover gasket as the whole backside of the engine is wet around the gasket constantly but I want to see if I can locate the area that it is coming from BEFORE I go chasing oil leaks.

Anyways, what else could cause the oil pressure to fluctuate like that?

 

[gregnash]

For the most part I always have the tick. Sometimes I don't and I love hoew quiet the cruiser is. I wish I was more help. I posted the same question a few months back but didn't get my decent advice. Thought maybe it was speedo but like you said it changes with rpm.

If I am cruising at a decent speed an lightly let off gas I can really hear it because the engine is not muffling it..

Ok so I pretty much confirmed that the tick is most likely coming from the j-pipe block-off as that nut is gone (looks to have busted off more stud). So looks like next year I will be taking care of that along with a new exhaust as I am pretty sure that I have some pinhole sized spots between the manifold and the cat that the previous owner just dumped a crapload of welding on.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Finally got the cleaning and painting of the skid plate finished this week before Thanksgiving. Today I finally got a chance to get to it but ran into an issue. When I originally got the truck I found that the plate was only mounted by two bolts (there are a total of 5 with 3 on drivers side and 2 on passenger) because the rest were busted off in their respective holes.

Well thanks to my BIL and buddy I got some new toys. The BIL, who is a master plumber and I had been talking about what tool brand to get and was looking to get either Dewalt or Porter Cable, just looking for something cheap at the time. Well he is a BIG Milwaukee fan and ended up showing up at my house with a late birthday present.
Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

This really ended up coming in handy as I went to HD to grab a screw extractor set and some drill bits for the impact and well, one busted extractor later and two smaller bits I said screw it and just completely drilled out the busted bolts. They were so rusted in there that they did move slightly but took so much force to move them that the extractors just broke. Luckily I had an SAE tap and die set from a while back and just tapped the holes so that I could use them to mount the stupid plate.

Then talking with my buddy who just bought a new house with a huge barn as his work space he gave me a new toy, his 16gallon craftsman air compressor to "mount tubeless tires with" on our mountain bikes (of course he bought a 60gallon standing unit for the barn).
Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Now just need to get some new toys for the compressor, like a small 3" cut-off wheel (since I already have a die grinder) and possibly impact gun and air hammer (to take off the damn TREs that I have a feeling are going to be a bitch).

I have Milwaukee, DeWalt and Makita cordless tools and always go for the Milwaukee.... My DeWalt 3/8" impact and drill (3 years old) look brand new...

One of the best tools I've bought is a Milwaukee 1/2" cordless impact.. other than my MATCO 1/2" (battery life SUCKS but much stronger) Once again my go to brand.... Milwaukee..

NICE SCORE G

J

 

[gregnash]

Yeah the little M12 (regular kit not brushless) was a little monster at getting through the frame/nut/bolt/whatevermetal. Definitely glad I had it and he was trying to get me to buy the 18v kit which really I was more interested in the form factor of the M12 set more than anything. Great little kit so far.

 

[Cruising Canuck]

I bought the Dewalt 12v kit and couldn't be happier. I've drilled many holes through my frame with that goofy Drill. I've never tried Milwaukee stuff, but the battery on the 12v set looked half the size of the Dewalt.
Plus the dewalt was 150 bucks with a sawsall Drill driver and 2 batteries.
Tools are one of my many financial weaknesses.
Thanks for the Milwaukee recommendation, I'll give em a go next time

 

[gregnash]

Yeah the kit the my BIL got me, which I was looking at, was normally about $150 and came with drill, driver, two standard batteries and one XC (not the XC 4.0) extended life battery.

 

[atomicshawn]

Oil pressure sending unit, do these normally just fail or will they fail slowly?.. Anyways, what else could cause the oil pressure to fluctuate like that?

You ever figure this out Greg?

 

[gregnash]

@atomicshawn No still havent figured it out. Gauge has been fine since that happened so not sure what is going on with it. I did get under the hood and take a look to see that the wire was connected well and what not but did not find any issues.

 

[gregnash]

Ok well I went back through the wiring with the multi-meter and everything was working as it should be. Even went as far as to check all the connections and make sure I didnt see a break or bad kink somewhere. Sure enough everything was fine and I plug the stereo in and she powered right up. I am stumped unless there is a bad connection somewhere that I couldn't get to or see and by pulling on the wires some when I was testing I was able to reset the connection.

Huh. Well, that's good that it works and that all the tests gave the right results.

Since the power to the radio comes through the 12V+ with the ACC switch, and if there is some gremlin in that circuit, there it could be something like a wire occasionally grounding, or a fuse (either the 5 Amp fuse in the box, or the fusible link between the battery and the ACC switch) making intermittent contact.
So if the power goes again, you can repeat the Voltage test, working your way back methodically from the 12V+ input to the radio, along the circuit, testing both sides of the component (wire, switch, fuse, etc.) until you see the 12V+, then you've identified the culprit.

Same thing goes for rechecking the fusible links. Working your way back towards the battery, you should see 12V+ on the far side of each of those links, and their components (depending if the switch is open/closed).

How about this cruise control issue? Any luck identifying the wires (matching their color to the wiring diagram or following them to see where they lead)?

Remember, if you are testing a wire/component that doesn't have 12V+ (so it isn't hot), then you have to use the Ohm function (measures resistance/continuity) on the multi-meter.

The difference is that when using the Volt function (when you are measuring a hot wire), you are relying on the 12V+ power from the vehicle's battery to take the measurement (and the circuit is completed by grounding the black (-) lead of the meter...then current can flow through the device).

When you use the Ohm function, the meter itself is providing the power to take the measurement. So, for example, to test that a wire is making good ground to the vehicle's chasis, then you would connect the red(+) lead from the meter to the wire end closest to the component it is supposed to ground, and then connect the black(-) lead from the meter to the vehicle chasis (to complete the ground circuit). The meter sends out just enough current (if it is a good circuit) to be able to see itself. Sometimes you have to use a 'jumper wire' (an extension wire) to add on to either the black(-) lead from the meter (or both leads, for that matter) in order to make the lead long enough to get it where you want to make contact to close the circuit.

Don't use the Ohm function to test a 12V+ hot wire!!

Ok well looks like I am going to be running this down again with the damn radio. Suddenly the other day I switched the lights on while driving and got a loud relay click from down below the dash. Radio went out and watched the volt meter drop quickly and raise back up. Few seconds later the radio kicked on. Now It will intermittently kick off while driving and get a click from the relays. No affect to anything else that I can see but the volt meter will suddenly dump and then come back up.

However, new symptom is that when this is happening I hear feedback through the speakers (which I believe means a ground issue) and now I am suddenly seeing an overvolting issue. Now when this happens the volt meter will spike to the last line (which I think is 14v) and stay there. Sometimes if I switch the lights on it will come back down to normally (hovering between the mid line and high line, not 16v). I just had this happen on lunch and looked under the hood to see if I could see a weird/bad connection but nothing. Thinking that it has to do with the power wire for the radio which seems to be spliced in somewhere on the stalk, so I may be pulling the dash apart completely soon.

This did start happening recently after I pulled the radio out to re-align the empty din below it. SOOOOOOO hate electrical crap!!! @Slow Left

 

[Slow Left]

Ok well looks like I am going to be running this down again with the damn radio. Suddenly the other day I switched the lights on while driving and got a loud relay click from down below the dash. Radio went out and watched the volt meter drop quickly and raise back up. Few seconds later the radio kicked on. Now It will intermittently kick off while driving and get a click from the relays. No affect to anything else that I can see but the volt meter will suddenly dump and then come back up.

However, new symptom is that when this is happening I hear feedback through the speakers (which I believe means a ground issue) and now I am suddenly seeing an overvolting issue. Now when this happens the volt meter will spike to the last line (which I think is 14v) and stay there. Sometimes if I switch the lights on it will come back down to normally (hovering between the mid line and high line, not 16v). I just had this happen on lunch and looked under the hood to see if I could see a weird/bad connection but nothing. Thinking that it has to do with the power wire for the radio which seems to be spliced in somewhere on the stalk, so I may be pulling the dash apart completely soon.

This did start happening recently after I pulled the radio out to re-align the empty din below it. SOOOOOOO hate electrical crap!!! @Slow Left

Hmm...I think your idea of confirming how the radio is being powered will help you begin troubleshooting.

Is the switched power to the radio using the factory switched wire? Or did the OP splice in his own switched power somehow...somewhere...
Can you trace that switched wire back to the ignition switch?
What is the color of that switched power wire to the radio and does it match factory color coding?

 

[Slow Left]

Also, what is the production month for your 85 FJ60?

 

[Slow Left]

Greg, did you ever run the On-Vehicle Ignition Switch Test?

NOTE: it is a continuity test, so disconnect the battery first and use the resistance/or/continuity function on your multimeter to probe each set of terminals as shown in the FSM. You should only see continuity on the pairs of terminals shown in the table.
If you see continuity between pairs not shown in the table, then you've got a 'short' in the Ignition Switch.
If you don't see continuity between pairs shown in the table, then you've got a 'short' in the switch.
Consult the FSM for full instructions on the procedure (I think the image I posted up might have cut of the rest of the test/instructions).

See page 13-18 in the Body Electrical section of the 1980 Chassis_Body FSM:

 

[gregnash]

Mine is a 10/85 if I remember correctly
PO somewhere down the line spliced in his own power wire but I cannot find where it actually attaches to the stalk which is why I am thinking I am going to have to pull apart the dash. Need to get a screw remover as one of the screws for the steering wheel is stripped out (great) when I tried to work on replacing the horn pin a couple weeks ago.

The previous cruise control was something that was spliced in by a shop, not by Toyota so there are all kinds of bypasses and crap in there.

 

[Slow Left]

Mine is a 10/85 if I remember correctly

If production date is after 4/85, I think you might consult the wiring diagram in the Supplement and compare it to the one published in the original 1980 chassis_body FSM to make sure you are aware of any changes made to the circuits.

There should be an image of the wiring diagram from the supplement posted (post #26) up in this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/tail-rear-running-lights-fj60-not-working.825072/page-2

PO somewhere down the line spliced in his own power wire but I cannot find where it actually attaches to the stalk which is why I am thinking I am going to have to pull apart the dash.

See if you can find the factory wire that is supposed to power the radio first, if that is easier...just thinking it might be easier to pull the radio instead of the whole dash to confirm which wires are which...but I guess it depends on the particulars of how things are installed on the vehicle...

 

[gregnash]

I will have to pull the stereo to see if I can find the stock wire in there but I do not remember ever seeing it in there. I know that I have seen the stock speaker connectors but they have been taped back away from everything. The PO ran a, what looks like, 12ga wire from the stereo to somewhere on the steering column to access the ACC for when you turn the truck on. I know that I can hit some loose wires that are under there and it will occasionally trip everything but it doesn't always.

 

[Slow Left]

Suddenly the other day I switched the lights on while driving and got a loud relay click from down below the dash. Radio went out and watched the volt meter drop quickly and raise back up. Few seconds later the radio kicked on. Now It will intermittently kick off while driving and get a click from the relays. No affect to anything else that I can see but the volt meter will suddenly dump and then come back up.

You might go ahead and recheck those fusible links and also all the fuses in the fuse box...and while you're at it, if you check the Supplement or 1980 Chassis_Body FSM there are procedures for checking the Relays, too.

EDIT: The radio might have it's own ground...sometimes grounded to the dash somewhere. But if you see that the Radio is grounding through the WB (White wire with Black stripe) wire, it probably is grounding through one of the shared grounds...

For locating common grounds, see post #7 in the following thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/turn-signal-issues.684317/

 

[gregnash]

Alright found the culprit now to just get in there and fix it.

See the blue connector top left that is a splice connector that occasionally will move and that is when the system shorts.

 

[dirtEJohnson]

Good find! Those snap locks should be eradicated as they will always cause problems.