Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe
- Thread starter gregnash
- Start date
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hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
Good luck, half way there and see if there is more "while your there" fun, its a party remember
The engine has 2 corner triangle holes but the gasket one?
search shows many with two triangles, other engine type?
fj60 headgasket - Google zoeken
Is your new headgasket part number: 11115-61030 ?
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
^^^^^^^^^ First thing I noticed in the pics.
That old gasket was fubar! Good eye Output and Machinist.
I'll chime in on coolant because mine is finally clean. (at least at the radiator) I use O'Reilly's Conventional Green (just your run of the mill ethylene glycol which is what the manual specifies). IIRC the system holds 4 gallons. I dump in distilled water and coolant in a 50/50 ratio. Has served me well.
I'll chime in on coolant because mine is finally clean. (at least at the radiator) I use O'Reilly's Conventional Green (just your run of the mill ethylene glycol which is what the manual specifies). IIRC the system holds 4 gallons. I dump in distilled water and coolant in a 50/50 ratio. Has served me well.
If the gasket kit you got is a 100% Toyota gasket kit, then Toyota is selling two completely different head gaskets for the 2F. Somethings not right here.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #910
I thought I had read somewhere that the gasket that comes in the kit is completely different than the one that is purchased individually. Will stop by the barn today, wipe off the block and place the new gasket on it to see if anything looks amiss... Hopefully @beno will reply with some verification as to what is going on.
Will also take another pic of the old head gasket, still not sure what you guys are talking about and of course the photos that I uploaded from my phone MUD app did not save in my phone so cant repost... If I am looking at the first pick of the HG for cylinder 1&2 on the last page, you guys are talking about the two gunked up areas that are inbetween the cylinders correct? Not the holes on the push rod line?
Will also take another pic of the old head gasket, still not sure what you guys are talking about and of course the photos that I uploaded from my phone MUD app did not save in my phone so cant repost... If I am looking at the first pick of the HG for cylinder 1&2 on the last page, you guys are talking about the two gunked up areas that are inbetween the cylinders correct? Not the holes on the push rod line?
That could be.
I made my "coolant holes blocked" declaration based on my new head gasket coolant holes location and the first pic I saw of your old one.
In that picture it looked like the front coolant hole was plugged, but now I see on another pic that it is indeed not plugged.
I see that your new gasket has eliminated the coolant holes between 4&5 and 2&3. So if your old gasket is similar to your new one, then those holes are not plugged either...they just don't exist.
Not trying to throw a lot of chaos into your project, it's just that these very different head gaskets are alarming. And the last thing you (or I) want to do is find out the wrong (or not best) gasket got installed when everything is all buttoned up.
I made my "coolant holes blocked" declaration based on my new head gasket coolant holes location and the first pic I saw of your old one.
In that picture it looked like the front coolant hole was plugged, but now I see on another pic that it is indeed not plugged.
I see that your new gasket has eliminated the coolant holes between 4&5 and 2&3. So if your old gasket is similar to your new one, then those holes are not plugged either...they just don't exist.
Not trying to throw a lot of chaos into your project, it's just that these very different head gaskets are alarming. And the last thing you (or I) want to do is find out the wrong (or not best) gasket got installed when everything is all buttoned up.
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gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #912
No and I completely agree which is why I am hoping to get verification... I know that the angle that the old headgasket is at it looks like some of the holes are blocked I can take a better pick tonight if need be. The engine got hot for sure but never actually got to the "overheating ok #$&%" stage, it was always just at or just below the redline, the final day when I puked all over the place was the only time I ever saw it get into the red and that I watched happen as I was going to shut the truck down. Even after when I was testing the system for exhaust gas in the coolant it never got into the red and I let it "warm up" for a good 5 minutes watching it very closely.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #913
Well crap.... just got a call from the machine shop...
Valves are all in somewhat bad shape, though salvageable. They all need to be reworked as they are showing cupping and other issues. Could leave it alone and be "ok" for a while but he did not believe they would continue to seal for very long. One valve in particular was pretty bad and may need to be replaced. He had not started working on them use so he was not sure but would let me know. So far the price for everything with the reworked valves is $320. That does not include if I need to replace the one valve.
Manifold is not something they have not dealt with before so they didn't even know where to start. Were going to farm it out to another shop but I told them to cancel that. At this point I have put a lot more into than the wife is willing so I am going to run the manifold the way it is for the time being. If I start seeing signs of a blown manifold gasket then I will check with another shop. Called them back and said screw it, just farm it out. Said he had talked to his guy and shouldn't be more than $75, I said if it is more than $100 then to call me.
Talked with him about how bad the valves were and if he felt they were salvageable with the idea of possibly looking at the SBC valve swap. He said everything looked to be in good enough shape but would have more information once he started working on the valves themselves. Was really hoping that I would not have to drop a whole lot on the head.
BLAST!!!
Valves are all in somewhat bad shape, though salvageable. They all need to be reworked as they are showing cupping and other issues. Could leave it alone and be "ok" for a while but he did not believe they would continue to seal for very long. One valve in particular was pretty bad and may need to be replaced. He had not started working on them use so he was not sure but would let me know. So far the price for everything with the reworked valves is $320. That does not include if I need to replace the one valve.
Talked with him about how bad the valves were and if he felt they were salvageable with the idea of possibly looking at the SBC valve swap. He said everything looked to be in good enough shape but would have more information once he started working on the valves themselves. Was really hoping that I would not have to drop a whole lot on the head.
BLAST!!!
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gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #914
Just thought of something as I was reading through someone else's thread...
Right before all this heating issue happened I remember we had a few really cold days. On those days the truck sat outside the office for the entire day (snow fall and all that so temps were in the 20s). I remember a couple of the days driving home and as I went to leave the office I heard what I thought was a belt squealing as I would pull out of our office parking lot. Could this possibly have been the water pump going as well? I want to say this happened right around the time I started having the over heat issue (beginning of last month) and the belts are not old, maybe 2 1/2yrs old and my buddy and I visually inspected on Sunday night and they are all in good condition.
Could the waterpump suddenly go like that without really weeping any fluid? Either way I put the new waterpump on last night, that was one of those "while you're in there items" as apparently it was not the original as it had some blue RTV around the gasket and one bolt end (not the head).
Right before all this heating issue happened I remember we had a few really cold days. On those days the truck sat outside the office for the entire day (snow fall and all that so temps were in the 20s). I remember a couple of the days driving home and as I went to leave the office I heard what I thought was a belt squealing as I would pull out of our office parking lot. Could this possibly have been the water pump going as well? I want to say this happened right around the time I started having the over heat issue (beginning of last month) and the belts are not old, maybe 2 1/2yrs old and my buddy and I visually inspected on Sunday night and they are all in good condition.
Could the waterpump suddenly go like that without really weeping any fluid? Either way I put the new waterpump on last night, that was one of those "while you're in there items" as apparently it was not the original as it had some blue RTV around the gasket and one bolt end (not the head).
The water pump impeller (or whatever it's called) is pressed on to the shaft. It can not spin free of the shaft by belt tension.
When a water pump dies, usually the seal starts to go and leakage is visible out the drip hole at the bottom.... but it will still pump coolant fine.
Or in extreme cases, the shaft seizes in the bushing and the pump won't turn....but the belt will then slip on the pully and you would hear that for sure.
I saw a thread here somewhere on mud (I think 40s section) where the guy, for the life of him, could not track down his overheating problem. He replaced all the usual stuff first. Didn't fix it.
Then he finally said F it and pulled the water pump. It was completely filled with a mud like, clay like glop, completely blocking the flow of coolant.
When a water pump dies, usually the seal starts to go and leakage is visible out the drip hole at the bottom.... but it will still pump coolant fine.
Or in extreme cases, the shaft seizes in the bushing and the pump won't turn....but the belt will then slip on the pully and you would hear that for sure.
I saw a thread here somewhere on mud (I think 40s section) where the guy, for the life of him, could not track down his overheating problem. He replaced all the usual stuff first. Didn't fix it.
Then he finally said F it and pulled the water pump. It was completely filled with a mud like, clay like glop, completely blocking the flow of coolant.
other possibility was that the belt was just slipping on the pump, not turning it fully.. especially if you heard belt squeal..
Make sure you pull the side cover off of the engine while you are there. My PCV was clogged with gunk and all that gunk gets trapped in the side cover causing the PCV to not work properly.
Thanks for documenting this. I will most likely be doing this soon.
Thanks for documenting this. I will most likely be doing this soon.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #918
Ok got some clarification on the different head gaskets....
Looks like there is atleast 2 if not 3 different ones from my research. Onur commented the following...
The gasket kit for the later 2F is discontinued. The one provided for you is for the mid-range 2F time period (1983-early 1985) and thus comes with the gasket for that time period.
The HG will work since I have been providing these for many different shops and customers. No one has had any issues with where the coolant jacket holes are. The later one is available separately but would have been another $132
Clear as MUD?
So yeah.... in the future if you want you the definite head gasket to fit your later model 2F then you have to order everything separately OR have two head gaskets. I trust the man in his word that it will work no matter what!
Hope to have good news from the shop tomorrow that they DO NOT need to replace that one valve.
Looks like there is atleast 2 if not 3 different ones from my research. Onur commented the following...
The gasket kit for the later 2F is discontinued. The one provided for you is for the mid-range 2F time period (1983-early 1985) and thus comes with the gasket for that time period.
The HG will work since I have been providing these for many different shops and customers. No one has had any issues with where the coolant jacket holes are. The later one is available separately but would have been another $132
Clear as MUD?
So yeah.... in the future if you want you the definite head gasket to fit your later model 2F then you have to order everything separately OR have two head gaskets. I trust the man in his word that it will work no matter what!
Hope to have good news from the shop tomorrow that they DO NOT need to replace that one valve.
Nice detective work!
glad to finally get some clarification on all of the different gaskets.
glad to finally get some clarification on all of the different gaskets.
11115-61010 is applicable through 1985.
11115-61020 supersedes to 11115-61030 which is applicable from 1985 through end of 3F-E production in 8/1992.
You can technically use either one for that mid range period according to the EPC. I discussed this in my build thread as well where I have pics of both gaskets side-to-side and you can see the differences in the holes for the water jacket holes.
The gasket Greg got is the correct one for his truck. He could use the later one as well if he wanted.
11115-61020 supersedes to 11115-61030 which is applicable from 1985 through end of 3F-E production in 8/1992.
You can technically use either one for that mid range period according to the EPC. I discussed this in my build thread as well where I have pics of both gaskets side-to-side and you can see the differences in the holes for the water jacket holes.
The gasket Greg got is the correct one for his truck. He could use the later one as well if he wanted.
