Featured 100 - Tom B

[Tom B]

Excellent way to hide that switch, you guys are really driving me to look into a front locker with all these ultra clean installs.

Peace of mind and lower overall driveline stresses (locked/unlocked). Just do it...you know you want to! And add the 4.88's and 315's while you're at it .

Keep in mind that the 4-pinions seem under-engineered as well, so getting a front locker in there could possible save you from another broken R&P. Mine broke very easily in 7-10" of snow.....in my cul de sac....5 feet from my driveway. The good news was that my warm dry garage was not very far away and pulling the driver members and DS didn't take long.

While it did occur in reverse, I was very light on the throttle. ATRAC might have been a contributing factor; it allows a lot of wheelspin and then clamps down hard on the spinning wheel. When I started digging a clear path for LC to get up my driveway, it didn't even look like any of my front tires had dug down to pavement. I tend to use my front ARB judiciously in situations where the front needs to do some spinning, especially in reverse.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

it allows a lot of wheelspin and then clamps down hard on the spinning wheel

Only if one uses too much throttle. Keep the gas very light....let the system do the crawling for you. Wheelspin is minimal. I made this mistake for some time before I learned the system.

 

[Tom B]

Only if one uses too much throttle. Keep the gas very light....let the system do the crawling for you. Wheelspin is minimal. I made this mistake for some time before I learned the system.

While I'm relatively new to the 100 series traction control, I have had both a 4th gen 4R and a LR D2. I have used them both offroad and I am use TC. My standard technique is to start with the RPM's low and constant for a certain time period. Then, I slowly work the throttle to successively higher levels where I either make it up the obstacle or decide to use momentum. All in all, I would consider myself one of the lighter skinny pedal drivers out there. I have certainly noticed your point that gunning the 100 causes ATRAC to step in harshly after the wheels are spinning.

However, in my experience there are times where you need to increase the throttle level to a certain level to make forward or backward progress. With the 100's dynamics (weight+ATRAC algo+etc), I have been in several situations where front diff pulsates pretty heavily and lighter throttle was not an option (okay, giving up or digging was the other option).

In the snow, I was probably still in the sub 2000 RPM range when the front diff went. In my picture titled LHC, I was slowly increasing the throttle level on that climb, inching my way up and trying to let ATRAC due its job. The throttle level necessary for ATRAC to move me forward was causing the 100 to buck, and the front end was pulsating very loudly.

Perhaps you are ramping your throttle slower than me? Lately, I give ATRAC a small time window, and if it fails, then turn on the lockers to minimize the risk of drivetrain damage to the front end. I think I may try some experiments and give it another opportunity on some hard obstacles (forward only).

 

[Tom B]

Someone was inquiring about the bumper to body gap with the +03 ARB combo bar. Here is a shot. My minimum bumper to body distance was slightly higher than what ARB called for in the directions. The minimum distance was by the fenders, not the front. I think it was a good question, since some may balk at this kind of gap.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

While I'm relatively new to the 100 series traction control, I have had both a 4th gen 4R and a LR D2. I have used them both offroad and I am use TC. My standard technique is to start with the RPM's low and constant for a certain time period. Then, I slowly work the throttle to successively higher levels where I either make it up the obstacle or decide to use momentum. All in all, I would consider myself one of the lighter skinny pedal drivers out there. I have certainly noticed your point that gunning the 100 causes ATRAC to step in harshly after the wheels are spinning.

However, in my experience there are times where you need to increase the throttle level to a certain level to make forward or backward progress. With the 100's dynamics (weight+ATRAC algo+etc), I have been in several situations where front diff pulsates pretty heavily and lighter throttle was not an option (okay, giving up or digging was the other option).

In the snow, I was probably still in the sub 2000 RPM range when the front diff went. In my picture titled LHC, I was slowly increasing the throttle level on that climb, inching my way up and trying to let ATRAC due its job. The throttle level necessary for ATRAC to move me forward was causing the 100 to buck, and the front end was pulsating very loudly.

Perhaps you are ramping your throttle slower than me? Lately, I give ATRAC a small time window, and if it fails, then turn on the lockers to minimize the risk of drivetrain damage to the front end. I think I may try some experiments and give it another opportunity on some hard obstacles (forward only).

Every obstacle and line is different. Who knows if we're talking the same amount of pedal or not. I just know that the 100 does not allows for anywhere near the slippage as say a Rover, etc. It's tight and it works. I don't like the jerky situations like you mentioned. Those jerks usually occur when flexes out and turning. I prefer a locker there if other wheels are placed right. But even in these situations I don't see much wheel slip.....just the failure to climb the obstacle in between "pulses".
Oh, and I use very little throttle in the rocks.....very little.....I let the TRAC do everything. Once it BEGINS to climb (this is then when you then need less traction assist) I might increase throttle to keep momentum up the rest. If I slip again the pdeal goes almost to zero until.................

 

[yoter100]

Any pics of your trimmed front fenders??

Thanks!

 

[Tom B]

Any pics of your trimmed front fenders??

Thanks!

To fit the 35's for road use, I initially had to trim a portion of the inner plastic skirt. So I trimmed the plastic fender skirt and not the actual fender itself - sorry for the confusion.

After several trips, I have hit and slightly bent my actual metal fenders, so I guess you can say my fenders are getting trimmed...by one of those self-correcting processes. So, 35's don't fit unless upward compression travel is reduce or the body moves up. I have decided to install a 12mm body lift to compensate.

 

[hoser]

So, 35's don't fit unless upward compression travel is reduce or the body moves up.

I suspect 285 width 35's would probably fit w/o fender any interference.