Hey Everyone, I'm getting ready to place a Tom Woods driveshaft order for the rear prop shaft on my 05 LC and wanted to double check the numbers with someone who would have more expertise than me. I measured the flange to flange as best I could with the shaft still on while the vehicle is sitting (as directed) and came out with 47.125. I was also trying to get the bolt pattern correct for both the t case end and the diff end and when I measured (again with the shaft on) I thought it was about 2.75x 2.75 but the closest option on the Woods site is 2.625x 2.625 (bolt hole 10/11 and 10). Do those numbers sound right? TIA
Tom Woods driveshaft order
- Thread starter 4Beast
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Don’t I remember @MongooseGA installing Tom Woods driveshafts, and still having to chase down vibrations?
(The reason that this stands out in my mind, was that I was chasing a vibration, and debating rebuilding my existing driveshaft, buying a new OE driveshaft, or purchasing a “premium” aftermarket driveshaft)
(The reason that this stands out in my mind, was that I was chasing a vibration, and debating rebuilding my existing driveshaft, buying a new OE driveshaft, or purchasing a “premium” aftermarket driveshaft)
Yes, I do have f/r TW shafts. Initially, they were pretty out of balance. TW would have rebalanced them for me but the shipping cost for them would have been more than just reimbursing me to have a local shop do it, so that's what we did.
I don't believe I'd go for them again. OEM is fine, and my TW are now my trail spares.
I don't believe I'd go for them again. OEM is fine, and my TW are now my trail spares.
- Thread starter
- #5
Did you get the regular or the double cardon?
Double cardan.
- Thread starter
- #7
Cool. Do you think that was a help or a hindrance for your vibration?
After balancing it wasn't terrible, but there's inherently going to be more vibration in a DC shaft just due to having an extra set of U-joints. As far as how helpful the DC shafts were for their intended purpose of flexing out...
Like I said, they're my trail spares. Guys with way more articulation than me do fine with a single cardan.
Like I said, they're my trail spares. Guys with way more articulation than me do fine with a single cardan.
hoser
SILVER Star
In typical double cardan install, the pinion is pointed towards the transfer case. If not and the pinion angle on the diff is parallel to the t-case, the diff will constantly change rotation rates (there is no 4th, complementary u-joint that would cancel out the angle at the diff). Double cardan end is a CV..... constant velocity.
May or may not be noticeable on small angle/long driveshafts but that is what happens. One might say, "I have adjustable control arms, I can change the pinion angle." Maybe so to some degree but the spring perches and panhard bar will become further out of alignment.
May or may not be noticeable on small angle/long driveshafts but that is what happens. One might say, "I have adjustable control arms, I can change the pinion angle." Maybe so to some degree but the spring perches and panhard bar will become further out of alignment.
- Thread starter
- #10
I appreciate your feedback. Do you recall the answer to my original question about the bolt pattern and length?
Apologies, I do not.
- Thread starter
- #12
Thanks anyway.
This is the info I have on my order:
- Thread starter
- #14
I appreciate you digging this up! so the length looks close to what i got, but I don't see the bolt pattern. If the OE ones weren't so expensive this would be an easy decision...
IIRC, they used a "standard" Toyota bolt pattern. I think I emailed them and specified the model and they pulled it up.
I paid just over $900 for my front and rear TW shafts. I believe I spent about $400 for a new OEM front recently. I think it'd be worth watching for seasonal Toyota sales. Sera Toyota of Decatur, AL has been my go to for best OEM parts deals.
I paid just over $900 for my front and rear TW shafts. I believe I spent about $400 for a new OEM front recently. I think it'd be worth watching for seasonal Toyota sales. Sera Toyota of Decatur, AL has been my go to for best OEM parts deals.
- Thread starter
- #16
I'm actually waiting for them to send my CVs I might add the driveshaft to the order if shipping is already included. I think they are still more than the cost of a DC from Tom Woods though.
hoser
SILVER Star
I wonder why they'd specify a double cardan for the IFS front diff for you.
I made that mistake with my order. That was on me though, not TW.
I ended up going with a new OE rear driveshaft, because it was cheaper than the labor on a local rebuild, I got OE U joints, didn’t have to worry about the OE shimming/clips, and the original went 250k miles. If I remember correctly, the complete driveshaft was ~$450 online.
- Thread starter
- #20
Yeah, I found one for $462 (msrp is $670), and somehow shipping seems to be free (rather than $44) so I'm leaning that direction (for reference the non DC Tom Woods is $400). Also the Tom Woods guy (Troy) said that in his opinion the DC was not necessary, esp on the rear. The only knock on the OE is the thin walled tubing and the not quite 1310 U joints. Mine is also close to that 250,000 miles.
