Featured 100: Greg B (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Greg B
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hi whats the measurement of the lift (from center cap to the edge of the fender) tnx!
- Thread starter
- #64
I’ve been on a 100 hiatus for the last couple years. All the other stuff (wife, kids, job, etc.) has kept me busy and the 100 hasn't received much love. With that said, it just keeps going with very few problems. Back in December, I changed the fluids in my diffs, transfer case, and engine and changed out the original spark plugs. While I was at it I noticed the coolant was a little low; topped it off and moved on.
About a week later, I was driving home from Chicago and started hearing a grinding noise that changed pitch at speed. As I made it through Indianapolis, I heard it getting worse and I pulled off the highway. I looked under the 100 thinking I had a bad u-joint or a bearing only to see the heat shield from the muffler hanging from only one corner and barely touching the ground. After taking a breaker bar from my tool kit and hammering the heat shield off I was able to get home with no issue.
That week I took it into the local shop (St Matthews Imports in Louisville – highly recommended) and had them put on a new muffler, fix the coolant leak (thermostat seal), replace the rear wiper arm, leaking 3rd brakelight seal, and the lumbar support in the driver’s seat.
The next week, I had all 5 tires replaced. I went from 295x75x16 BFG AT’s that lasted 55k miles to 285x75x16 Cooper Discoverer AT3’s. I got a nice deal on them and really like them so far. During that same week, my starter started going out on me. I had no time to deal with it (travelling too much for work lately) so I had it replaced by St. Matthews Imports. I regret not doing it myself but I just didn’t have the time.
About a week later, I was driving home from Chicago and started hearing a grinding noise that changed pitch at speed. As I made it through Indianapolis, I heard it getting worse and I pulled off the highway. I looked under the 100 thinking I had a bad u-joint or a bearing only to see the heat shield from the muffler hanging from only one corner and barely touching the ground. After taking a breaker bar from my tool kit and hammering the heat shield off I was able to get home with no issue.
That week I took it into the local shop (St Matthews Imports in Louisville – highly recommended) and had them put on a new muffler, fix the coolant leak (thermostat seal), replace the rear wiper arm, leaking 3rd brakelight seal, and the lumbar support in the driver’s seat.
The next week, I had all 5 tires replaced. I went from 295x75x16 BFG AT’s that lasted 55k miles to 285x75x16 Cooper Discoverer AT3’s. I got a nice deal on them and really like them so far. During that same week, my starter started going out on me. I had no time to deal with it (travelling too much for work lately) so I had it replaced by St. Matthews Imports. I regret not doing it myself but I just didn’t have the time.
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- Thread starter
- #65
So the month of December was a pretty expensive month for the 100 ($3500) and really got my Land Cruiser juices flowing again. There are several things that have been bugging me over the last couple years and I’ve decided to do something about it.
First off, the ARB front bumper that I pulled off and cut up to increase the approach angle was a total flop. I really never got it right and I said I was going to get a Slee when they came out so that’s getting ordered next week. I have 2 Hella 4000’s that I will add back as well since they are not currently mounted (still have stock bumper).
Next is the stereo, it’s all stock and it sucks! The JBL amp is going bad again and one of the front speakers is blown. I’m having a full JL Audio system installed. New front and rear speakers, new 5 channel digital amp, sub, and Cleansweep CL441dsp OEM Audio Interface. This allows for digital eq of the factory HU (I have nav) and also provides an auxiliary input for iPod.
Since the sub needs a home, I’m going to rebuild my rear drawers to hold the sub. While I’m at it, I’m going to add a Waeco CF50 fridge, Puma air compressor, and redo all the wiring including a Safety Hub 100 rear fuse block and new 12 volt outlets.
Since I’m adding all of these new electronics, I’m going to need more power so I’m adding an IBS battery management system and a group 34 Sears Platinum marine battery in a Slee 2nd battery tray. I also have a few items that need attention like new hood struts, front and rear sway bar rebuild, and new tailgate cables (mine are a little rusty inside the boots).
Well that’s the list for now, I’ll add new posts to this thread as I finish each of these upgrades over the next month. Stay tuned...
First off, the ARB front bumper that I pulled off and cut up to increase the approach angle was a total flop. I really never got it right and I said I was going to get a Slee when they came out so that’s getting ordered next week. I have 2 Hella 4000’s that I will add back as well since they are not currently mounted (still have stock bumper).
Next is the stereo, it’s all stock and it sucks! The JBL amp is going bad again and one of the front speakers is blown. I’m having a full JL Audio system installed. New front and rear speakers, new 5 channel digital amp, sub, and Cleansweep CL441dsp OEM Audio Interface. This allows for digital eq of the factory HU (I have nav) and also provides an auxiliary input for iPod.
Since the sub needs a home, I’m going to rebuild my rear drawers to hold the sub. While I’m at it, I’m going to add a Waeco CF50 fridge, Puma air compressor, and redo all the wiring including a Safety Hub 100 rear fuse block and new 12 volt outlets.
Since I’m adding all of these new electronics, I’m going to need more power so I’m adding an IBS battery management system and a group 34 Sears Platinum marine battery in a Slee 2nd battery tray. I also have a few items that need attention like new hood struts, front and rear sway bar rebuild, and new tailgate cables (mine are a little rusty inside the boots).
Well that’s the list for now, I’ll add new posts to this thread as I finish each of these upgrades over the next month. Stay tuned...
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- Thread starter
- #66
I almost forgot, I'm also upgrading many of the lights in the 100. I am going to order the interior LED kit and reverse lights next week. I also already purchased new low beam HIR headlight bulbs (still runing the stock ones) and I also picked up some led's that I'm mounting in the rear lift gate. I think that's about it for now.
Welcome back! Lets see some pics of how your rig stands today!
Looking forward to the audio redeaux. I am needing some inspiration to fix mine.
- Thread starter
- #69
Thanks, I'll post pics soon, the sliders are off (having them Line-X'd this week) and I'm going to pull the rear bumper to get it powder coated, will post soon though.
In the mean time, got motivated today and built a new set of drawers. Took about six hours for what you see in the first 2 pics, will build the actual drawers in the morning, built from 3/4 inch birch plywood. Already had the full extension slides from the old set of drawers i built a couple years ago. Will have the outside wrapped in carpet by the car audio guys when they install my subs.
Also went ahead and pulled the rear lift gate trim and mounted 2 led lights, last pic.
In the mean time, got motivated today and built a new set of drawers. Took about six hours for what you see in the first 2 pics, will build the actual drawers in the morning, built from 3/4 inch birch plywood. Already had the full extension slides from the old set of drawers i built a couple years ago. Will have the outside wrapped in carpet by the car audio guys when they install my subs.
Also went ahead and pulled the rear lift gate trim and mounted 2 led lights, last pic.
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jonharis
Adventure Imports
Think carefully about what you line-x on the sliders. Several people have line-x'ed the whole thing and there are negative consequences. One, the line-x is rough against the skin/clothing when exiting the vehicle, two, the line-x creates a lot of friction when using the slider to slide. You may consider only line-x'ing only the step surface. Most people I've talked to who have done the whole thing are not happy with it. It also peels off badly and in big strips when you do slide over rocks.
- Thread starter
- #71
Jon, thanks for that, sorry I wasn't clear in my last post, I'm only getting the internal step part done on top and bottom to fill in the gaps where the step plate meets the slider. That area holds dirt and water and keeps rusting on me. The rest of the slider is getting rattle-canned black for easy touch-up. Will post pics when it is done.
jonharis
Adventure Imports
Awesome. Good call. Looking forward to pics!
- Thread starter
- #73
Sliders are a mess. Rusted from bottom up through the step plates. Nothing structural yet, going to have them sand blasted to get all the rust off. Considering cutting the step plates out completely and going to an open look to keep them from rusting again. Or should I just lineX the top and bottom of the plates and keep the step plates? Thoughts?
How old are these sliders?
- Thread starter
- #75
Got them in 2005, gotta hate all the salt they use on the roads here in Louisville.
- Thread starter
- #76
Slider update: went to the powder coater to have him look at my sliders. The problem is that the step plate is only welded about every six inches. This lets dirt, water, and gunk to build up in the crack around the step plate. He doesn't think he can blast all the rust out from the bottom because of the angle so there is concern that all of the rust won't be gone and will keep rusting. I really wish I had the new version of the Slee step sliders with the removable step plate but I don't so time to go to plan B.
At this point I decided to cut the step plate out, grind down the welds, and then take them to the powder coater to blast and powder coat in black. It is slow going but it should look pretty good when I'm done.
At this point I decided to cut the step plate out, grind down the welds, and then take them to the powder coater to blast and powder coat in black. It is slow going but it should look pretty good when I'm done.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
We changed the design just for that reason. Based on the rust, and the salt they use, you should look into getting them galvanized, then painted.
- Thread starter
- #78
Hi Christo, I'm going to take it a step farther and have the mount arms LineX'd from the frame to the main beam of the slider. The rest will be powder coated. This should keep the rust away since the step plate will be removed. I also am going to need a new u-bolt mounting kit, two of them broke while removing. I'll call you later in the week to place an order for several parts and will add the u-bolts to the order.
- Thread starter
- #79
Slider update: one down, one to go! The step plate is removed and all the welds are ground down. I kept the Slee logo portion of the step plate. Should I mount it back to the slider with screws or I was thinking I might mount it to my Slee rear bumper, whataya think?
FWIW, I have the same sliders and I had them powdercoated black. After one season it looked the same. I've gone the rattle can black route. I'd try Christo's suggestion of galvanizing before powdercoating.
