FAQ addition: Dual Battery Set-Ups (1 Viewer)

[Erwin]

There are a couple of distance keepers welded on the top battery holder to prevent it from hitting the floor in case of hard hit from below.

The temperature should not be any problem. Normally overheating is a bigger problem with AGM's. Anyway, there is a shield underneath the battery, and I guess it will also get some warm air from the engine in cold weather.

 

[FeHorse]

Subscribed!

 

[LFD2037]

I have the same 97, I used the bolt that holds the arm that is supporting the accelerator cable. Its just a piece of formed metal and I have the ground cable sharing that bolt.

You still using this bolt for the ground? If so, is it still working good for you as a ground? Is there not a bolt, or threaded hole, on the PS engine block to bolt it to?

 

[NLXTACY]

You still using this bolt for the ground? If so, is it still working good for you as a ground? Is there not a bolt, or threaded hole, on the PS engine block to bolt it to?

Yeah I don't have electrical issues. I'm on it like a priest is on a boy who can keep a secret

But that ground point I chose has been fine. That being said, I did recently learn that I was missing a ground wire that is supposed to go from the firewall to the motor. Explains why I had the issue years ago.

 

[Paul Treichel]

I've been looking at doing this to our truck also but must report I have had great luck using one of these in an emergency. http://themicrostart.com/products/micro-starts/xp10/ Not trying to promote another product but having the ability to carry in multiple vehicles and my boat has made it really worth while. My question I guess is if this is being used mainly as a back up jump start battery has it saved your bacon in a way the portable unit couldn't?

 

[Cuerno Largo]

Needing confirmation of what I have gathered from numerous threads and also a few questions.

I have this Blue Sea kit.

After deliberating on my options, I have a couple of questions to clarify.

First my specs.... I am running standard interstate battery for starting and Odyssey deep cycle for house battery. All accessories are running to house battery- one passenger side and one rear fuse box with rear 1500W inverter. Alternator charging to the starting battery.

Questions......
The only advantage I would get from the red switch is to combine the batteries for jumping a dead starting battery? No problem with just running the ACR to keep both starting and house battery charged?

For future winch planning and something I have not researched deeply...Good to go with running winch to starting battery and using hand throttle to keep juice going?

What about grounding house battery? OK to ground to frame (using Copper Clad Aluminum 0 Gauge Cable)? Or any suggestions of better grounding options?

 

[Cuerno Largo]

bumping

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Right-the switch is basically to bypass the ACR. Helpful for winching since you can't force the 7610 closed otherwise. Rarely needed in my experience. And the 7610 works great as a stand alone dual battery system.

Winch to starter battery is the preferred method. Hand throttle is very good to charge faster after winching. Honestly it doesn't help much during winching.

You have some options for grounding. If the batteries are close, you can ground to the starter battery ground post if you're lazy. And it works fine. Better to ground to the starting battery post AND the frame with heavy gauge wire as you plan.

If you have other questions, send me a pm. I've installed 3 of these add a battery kits and am familiar with most behaviors.

 

[Cuerno Largo]

perfect. Thanks for the info. I'll go as planned and can always add the switch later for winching if needed. Thanks again.

 

[Mark Chapman]

IPOR(ironpigoffroad.com) Dual Battery System.

- Washer Relocator Bracket.
- Surepower battery seperator.
- O.E. 2nd battery tray
- All necc. 2ga and 14ga. wire
- Mil-spec terminals
- Battery hold down bracket with different j-hooks for optima

All parts included in one kit, pre terminated, crimped, and heat shrunk.

Straight forward installation: Connecting both batteries, ground new battery at vehicle body and frame. Tap into 12V signal from the cruise control under dash for SurePower battery seperator.

Kit also includes extra 14ga. wire for dash mounted LED to show when self-jump is activated.

No 4-way marine switch neccesary b/c seperator has ECU to control the batteries although a switch can easely be added.

Cost- $500 + 2nd battery of choice
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Very nice job! I want to do the same...except I have something big coming off air cleaner in the way. How do I move or relocate that?

 

[NLXTACY]

I have ideas for a bolt-on kit. I'm already making one for a buddy of mine so I figured I would just make it a bolt-on kit.

 

[Mark Chapman]

I have ideas for a bolt-on kit. I'm already making one for a buddy of mine so I figured I would just make it a bolt-on kit.

View attachment 1437840

Is this bracket for relocating the washer bottle?

 

[NLXTACY]

Is this bracket for relocating the washer bottle?

No, Slee has that covered. This is to mount an ML-ACT, Blue Sea 6-circuit fuse panel and blue sea circuit breaker.

 

[Mark Chapman]

No, Slee has that covered. This is to mount an ML-ACT, Blue Sea 6-circuit fuse panel and blue sea circuit breaker.

These 2 items?

 

[NLXTACY]

These 2 items?

View attachment 1438022


View attachment 1438021

View attachment 1438020

None of those. 6-circuit w/ground.

 

[Mark Chapman]

Ok thanks. Please send photo when you have one. I may be interested for my dual battery set up as well if it will work for me?

 

[NLXTACY]

Ok thanks. Please send photo when you have one. I may be interested for my dual battery set up as well if it will work for me?

It'll take time. I have other projects going on as well. I have wiring details to work out still. This is just a teaser.

 

[Mark Chapman]

Consider me teased. Feels like a first date. Ha

 

[weejub]

Big fuses and (hopefully) no fires

As I stated earlier, I have made a modification to my dual battery setup. I realized that in my configuration I still had a fusible link from my main + terminal to the truck, but I didn't have anything between the batteries and the marine switches or in line with the winch/accessory/etc... switchi and the 12' of OO cables running about. I figure if one of those shorts out and welds itself to the body or radiator and isn't fused I'm .

So, I went to www.defender.com and got a bunch of stuff. For this project:
2 mega fuse blocks 100-300a
4 300 amp fuses (2 for the project, 2 for spares)

I had some left over OO cable and 5/16" lug ends to make the little jumpers from my battery install.

I have a bit of peace of mind knowing that my odds of running a dead short and going up in a blaze of glory are somewhat reduced.
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Check out these going forward if you ever decide to change or move it or get new stuff:

This:

https://www.amazon.com/Pico-0810PT-Military-Terminal-Positive/dp/B001QRTZR0

Plus These:

Dual MRBF Terminal Fuse Block - 30 to 300A - Blue Sea Systems

Also a single is available.

 

[spazzyfry123]

How’s everyone working today?