That locker looks BEEFY!
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- Thread starter
- #1,982
Wow Jared S welcome to the forum. How's your Landrover doing? I haven't been on facebook much so I haven't following any of your adventures. That's certainly a benefit to rigs like these, we get to see places the highway cannot. Thanks for the Utah offering and we'll definitely be back.
As for coils that was a consideration but I was barely able to bite the D60 conversion so that will have to wait whether for this rig or a future project rig. We've got some house projects that should move up on the list. Thanks for checking out my thread.
As for coils that was a consideration but I was barely able to bite the D60 conversion so that will have to wait whether for this rig or a future project rig. We've got some house projects that should move up on the list. Thanks for checking out my thread.
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Hey maybe I missed it, what master cylinder are you going to run with the larger 1 ton brakes?
- Thread starter
- #1,984
Max - Right now I'm running a 1 1/8 in bore master from an astrovan that I got the hydroboost from. I plan to try this out first with the new set up and see what it's like. I've got other masters in the shop I can try as well depending on how the 1 1/8 bore does (the others are bigger).
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Oh sorry, no that you say that I do remember that you added hydroboost, whoops! Thanks 
- Thread starter
- #1,986
I wanted to wait until after the forum got updated before I started posting again and now that things are working well it's time to continue.
During the set up the driver side had the air collar and the advice was to not install the orings so they don't get buggered up from the on and off process of adjusting shims. With the shims dialed in it was now time for the final install so I put the orings in the collar and lubed them with some gear oil.
Using some tools to install the new pinon inner race since I was done with the set up race.
While this D60 didn't have an oil baffle my master kit came with one. I decided to install it after talking to a buddy before the set up so it became part of my shim stack during the set up.
I made a pinion baring tool to aid with the on and off of the pinion nut.
Here's how I routed the copper line. It doesn't contact anything and if I have to take the cap off I won't need to remove the copper line from the fitting like others I've seen with a hole in the cap and the line routed through it.
When assembling the knuckles I originally used the GM version seal which is in this pic. I didn't like the lazy seal it was giving when I had it all assembled so I took it off and put on the Ford version that has a thicker base on the seal. I had to play with it a little to get the lip not to fold over on itself as I was putting it all together but with the thicker base it looks like it seals better. In general I'm not impressed with the sealing design of the upper kingpin. I guess it helps allow bad grease out when you hit the zerk fitting from above. It makes more sense now where all the caked on grease came from that I cleaned/chiseled off. I plan to wipe the bad stuff after my grease maintenance to try and keep the build up from getting excessive.
Putting on the steering arms, springless design.
I removed the plastic hub dials and coated them with forever black that I use for black fadded bumpers/parts on cars. After they soaked in I wiped them down and now they have a nice satin black appearance as opposed to the chalky white plastic they were. I used some graphite on the backside of the dial when I assembled them. Be careful on alignment when you put them back together. I tested them a couple times to make sure I got it right and that they would actuate.
With the knuckles on it was time for the rest. Here the axle is installed with the dust seal that hits the backside of the spindle.
Next is the plastic washer with a coating of grease.
Then goes the spindle bearing seal. This is the orientation I found with the groove in the seal going against the plastic washer and the solid side of the seal going in the pocket on the spindle against the bearing.
Here goes the camber plate. There are different thicknesses for adjustment. I installed these how I pulled them off and ended up with a little too much \ / at the tires. I recently removed them so that I can go to the alignment shop and get a base measurement to know what thickness I'll need for my setup. Then I'll pick up the right sizes and install them if needed. The driver and passenger sides were not equal thicknesses.
On goes the spindle. It can only go on one way because the studs are not symmetrically positioned.
The caliper bracket and disk shield go on last. NOTE: This pic shows the caliper bracket installed on the wrong side. I realized that when I tried to put the hub with disk on and it didn't fit.
During the set up the driver side had the air collar and the advice was to not install the orings so they don't get buggered up from the on and off process of adjusting shims. With the shims dialed in it was now time for the final install so I put the orings in the collar and lubed them with some gear oil.
Using some tools to install the new pinon inner race since I was done with the set up race.
While this D60 didn't have an oil baffle my master kit came with one. I decided to install it after talking to a buddy before the set up so it became part of my shim stack during the set up.
I made a pinion baring tool to aid with the on and off of the pinion nut.
Here's how I routed the copper line. It doesn't contact anything and if I have to take the cap off I won't need to remove the copper line from the fitting like others I've seen with a hole in the cap and the line routed through it.
When assembling the knuckles I originally used the GM version seal which is in this pic. I didn't like the lazy seal it was giving when I had it all assembled so I took it off and put on the Ford version that has a thicker base on the seal. I had to play with it a little to get the lip not to fold over on itself as I was putting it all together but with the thicker base it looks like it seals better. In general I'm not impressed with the sealing design of the upper kingpin. I guess it helps allow bad grease out when you hit the zerk fitting from above. It makes more sense now where all the caked on grease came from that I cleaned/chiseled off. I plan to wipe the bad stuff after my grease maintenance to try and keep the build up from getting excessive.
Putting on the steering arms, springless design.
I removed the plastic hub dials and coated them with forever black that I use for black fadded bumpers/parts on cars. After they soaked in I wiped them down and now they have a nice satin black appearance as opposed to the chalky white plastic they were. I used some graphite on the backside of the dial when I assembled them. Be careful on alignment when you put them back together. I tested them a couple times to make sure I got it right and that they would actuate.
With the knuckles on it was time for the rest. Here the axle is installed with the dust seal that hits the backside of the spindle.
Next is the plastic washer with a coating of grease.
Then goes the spindle bearing seal. This is the orientation I found with the groove in the seal going against the plastic washer and the solid side of the seal going in the pocket on the spindle against the bearing.
Here goes the camber plate. There are different thicknesses for adjustment. I installed these how I pulled them off and ended up with a little too much \ / at the tires. I recently removed them so that I can go to the alignment shop and get a base measurement to know what thickness I'll need for my setup. Then I'll pick up the right sizes and install them if needed. The driver and passenger sides were not equal thicknesses.
On goes the spindle. It can only go on one way because the studs are not symmetrically positioned.
The caliper bracket and disk shield go on last. NOTE: This pic shows the caliper bracket installed on the wrong side. I realized that when I tried to put the hub with disk on and it didn't fit.
Last edited:
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- Apr 4, 2006
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You didn't use a case spreader? Mine was impossible to get in and out without one. I must have pulled mine in and out at least a dozen times.
- Thread starter
- #1,988
True, I didn't use a case spreader. During research setting up shims I used the tips that the carrier should fit in snug without the need to use a hammer (sometimes it took a few light taps with a rubber mallet just to make sure it was seated) and then adjust for backlash adding to one side and taking the same amount from the other. Then on final install an additional .002-.004 in shims are added to both sides to preserve the backlash and get the bearing preload so that the ring gear doesn't walk away from the pinion under load. My final pattern turned out slightly towards the heal with a tighter backlash of .004 (I was aiming for .006) and I needed some reasonable persuasion to get the carrier seated with the preload shims added.
- Thread starter
- #1,989
After the knuckles were installed it was a good time to set up the tie rod. I used the old tie rod to help get the right length for the new tie rod. Cut it to the right length and welded on the bungs.
Added my final bracing plates on top, cleaned it up and painted it.
Kept going with the spray can down the frame.
I wanted to convert my dodge 1/2" studs to 9/16" studs to match my rear and reuse all my lug nuts. This took a while to find but I finally found the right replacement studs. These are for a 1 ton Chevy truck application that had kingpin D60s.
Put on spacers on the rear. If I changed out to a standard 14b hub it would net me about the same width increase but I'd have to rework my brake mounting so I chose the easy route. First round of checking nut torque will be today.
D60 bolted up. Still needed the drag link and the ram assist mounted at this point.
Next came the brakes. I liked how the rear turned out converting to 3~AN so I took that route for the front. I welded a tab to a "T" and mounted that to the spring plate. I realized afterwards that the T I got for the rear was two male and one female. I picked up an all male this time but had to adapt to it with my other fittings so that took an extra piece. I reused my long frame to axle hose which is what required the adaptation. When I replace I'll go 3~AN too and only have to adapt at the frame hardline.
I was starting to run out of time before a planned trip so I didn't get elaborate on the shock mounts. I reused the factory bar on the D60 and welded a bucket to capture the lower shock mount. Everything clears in this spot when turning but I haven't cycled the suspension to see about two concern spots I have.
Passenger side shot. I still had the overloads on the leaf packs at this point. I later took those off because the front end was too tall.
I picked up a clamp for the tie rod side ram mount. Running TREs again with left and right hand thread I wanted to make the tie rod adjustable instead of popping the TREs out of the steering arms and being stuck with full turn increments.
Added my final bracing plates on top, cleaned it up and painted it.
Kept going with the spray can down the frame.
I wanted to convert my dodge 1/2" studs to 9/16" studs to match my rear and reuse all my lug nuts. This took a while to find but I finally found the right replacement studs. These are for a 1 ton Chevy truck application that had kingpin D60s.
Put on spacers on the rear. If I changed out to a standard 14b hub it would net me about the same width increase but I'd have to rework my brake mounting so I chose the easy route. First round of checking nut torque will be today.
D60 bolted up. Still needed the drag link and the ram assist mounted at this point.
Next came the brakes. I liked how the rear turned out converting to 3~AN so I took that route for the front. I welded a tab to a "T" and mounted that to the spring plate. I realized afterwards that the T I got for the rear was two male and one female. I picked up an all male this time but had to adapt to it with my other fittings so that took an extra piece. I reused my long frame to axle hose which is what required the adaptation. When I replace I'll go 3~AN too and only have to adapt at the frame hardline.
I was starting to run out of time before a planned trip so I didn't get elaborate on the shock mounts. I reused the factory bar on the D60 and welded a bucket to capture the lower shock mount. Everything clears in this spot when turning but I haven't cycled the suspension to see about two concern spots I have.
Passenger side shot. I still had the overloads on the leaf packs at this point. I later took those off because the front end was too tall.
I picked up a clamp for the tie rod side ram mount. Running TREs again with left and right hand thread I wanted to make the tie rod adjustable instead of popping the TREs out of the steering arms and being stuck with full turn increments.
Beautiful.
Where did you get the -3an brake lines from?
Where did you get the -3an brake lines from?
- Thread starter
- #1,991
There is a local shop that has all the 3~AN stuff that I frequent. It's a hydraulic hose/fitting/adapter kind of shop. They have this pre-made braided brake hose in several lengths and adapters for just about anything.
- Joined
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I love that place. I also used that shop for my brake and hydraulic line needs.
- Joined
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I'd love to just walk up and down the isles for hours. So many cool "thing-a-ma-jigs" in there.
- Thread starter
- #1,995
I picked up a Ruffstuff diff cover so I'd have something solid to mount my ram on. I cut and shaped some metal and fashioned it into a mount that I could weld onto the diff cover. I plan to replace several of the diff cover bolts with studs to increase the stay put force so the ram is less likely to loosen up the cover. On the street it's been fine.
Then I made some tabs for the clamp mount for the tie rod. With the steering throw of the NWfab arms I was able to reuse my 6" ram. In fact it was just perfect. Now I have an 8" surplus ram sitting on the shelf.
I'm still not driving it much just because I want to get it on a rack and see what the alignment numbers turn out to be. The one question i have is what should I have them test it as? Since the axle is different and the geometry has changed I'm not sure testing it as a Landcruiser would be right. Should I run it as just the axle meaning test it as a 92 Dodge W350?
I have taken her out a couple of times with the most recent being to a clean up event at our local offroad trails. The good thing about others looking over your stuff is that they can help spot things. We found this starting to form. These pieces are welded from both sides but I'll dig out a little trench with my angle grinder and reweld. Then I'll smooth it down again and paint. I may also extend the middle brace down the front of the mount too.
I do get some rubbing on the frame from the shackles that I'll address with a shackle reshaping.
Just some general pics.
Then I made some tabs for the clamp mount for the tie rod. With the steering throw of the NWfab arms I was able to reuse my 6" ram. In fact it was just perfect. Now I have an 8" surplus ram sitting on the shelf.
I'm still not driving it much just because I want to get it on a rack and see what the alignment numbers turn out to be. The one question i have is what should I have them test it as? Since the axle is different and the geometry has changed I'm not sure testing it as a Landcruiser would be right. Should I run it as just the axle meaning test it as a 92 Dodge W350?
I have taken her out a couple of times with the most recent being to a clean up event at our local offroad trails. The good thing about others looking over your stuff is that they can help spot things. We found this starting to form. These pieces are welded from both sides but I'll dig out a little trench with my angle grinder and reweld. Then I'll smooth it down again and paint. I may also extend the middle brace down the front of the mount too.
I do get some rubbing on the frame from the shackles that I'll address with a shackle reshaping.
Just some general pics.
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Thanks for posting up the lower shock mount pic Mike. Gives me a new route to mount my 7100s on Goss.
Looking good man.
J
Looking good man.
J
It's beautiful.
Do you have any steering / tracking issues that makes you want to get an alignment?
I'd have them put it up on the rack and tell you the current numbers and not make any adjustments. I'm not sure they need a reference vehicle to be able to do that, do they?
Do you have any steering / tracking issues that makes you want to get an alignment?
I'd have them put it up on the rack and tell you the current numbers and not make any adjustments. I'm not sure they need a reference vehicle to be able to do that, do they?
- Thread starter
- #1,998
I'm not getting aggressive tire wear but I did take out those camber plates because it looked like too much negative camber so it'd be nice to see where I'm at.
Yes, my plan was to just get the numbers, didn't want any adjustments made.
I decided to just call and the local Les Schwab can get me numbers without any adjustments for $20 and they didn't need to have a vehicle for factory comparison numbers so I set up an appointment for tomorrow.
Yes, my plan was to just get the numbers, didn't want any adjustments made.
I decided to just call and the local Les Schwab can get me numbers without any adjustments for $20 and they didn't need to have a vehicle for factory comparison numbers so I set up an appointment for tomorrow.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
is Dora taller on front now .?
- Thread starter
- #2,000
Yes, I'm thinking by about 2 inches. I knew it was going to gain a little since I wanted to change the geometry on the springs (get the fixed end more level to the shackle end), but the overloads just provided too much height so i took them out. Maybe it will come down a little working the springs on a trail or may be they won't. If they don't I may lift the rear by an inch. I guess that would clear me for 39s but I've been liking the set up with 37s.