Builds Family haulin' (1 Viewer)

[boots4]

Update

Yes I'm heading to the dark 1 ton side. It doesn't start out glamorous though; it requires a lot of this:

The original owner was religious at greasing everything but a sinner about replacing seals. My first attack was chiseling it all down to metal and then start the degreaser rounds scrubbing with a metal brush. I've spent time cleaning all the parts as I get back to them for assembly.

I stripped the D60 down to nothing and am replacing most of the parts mostly for good measure. I've been fortunate and am not getting hounded by the even though since I'm commuting with the car that leaves her without wheels. As a consequences I've been stretching this out plus I haven't been as motivated to go play outside in the cold weather this time. On top of that she's let me buy some extra parts so I don't have to do some of this again. I've picked up the following:

Knuckle rebuild kits
NWF Hi-steer arms (springless) and studs
Ruffstuff GM TRE steering kit
Surplus Center ram (item number 9-7258-8)
New ubolts
Used 4.10 gear set
Yukon Zip Locker
Master install kit
WFO pinion flange (Dana 60 to toyota)

Brakes and wheel bearings all look great so I'm reusing those.
Axle u-joints feel good so the stockers are going back in.


I did research on lockers and was originally planning on going with the elocker but after seeing the engagement pin stripping issues I knew I'd have issues with my diesel torque so I kept looking. The OX, Zip and ARB basically became the choices since I wanted a selectable. I shied away from the OX due to cable maintenance complaints, in and out of business, and a cable plus lever were not included. At least from my research I think the ARB is probably the strongest but it's also more expensive. The Zip overall had great reviews, was a little cheaper, and will be stronger than what I need for my wheeling style.

The zip came double packaged.

The master install kit from USA standard gear. It uses koyo bearings so that's my attempt at keeping it more toyota.

Knuckle rebuild kit minus the cap. One kit per side. I won't need the spring but it was cheaper to buy it this way as a kit than piece it together.

Picked up new ubolts.

WFO D60 to toyota pinion flange. That way I can reuse my existing front driveshaft.

I snuck in a better tire patch kit than what I had.

I'll use my local fitting place for brake lines and adapters. I'll play with on-board air ideas after I'm back on the road.

 

[boots4]

Dana 60 comparison

This post will be dedicated to a Kingpin Dana 60 to FJ60 Landcruiser axle component comparison. While Longfields make the toyota axles themselves comparable to stock D60 axles the rest of the D60 components seem substantially beefier.

D60 components are on the left side and Landcruiser components are on the right side.

Front rotors and hubs. Wheel bearings are bigger, hub is deeper, rotor is bigger and thicker. The Dodge has wimpy 1/2 thread studs but I'll be changing those out to 9/16 stuff to match my 14Bolt in the rear.

Spindles are bigger, thicker, longer. Geesh that sounds like the junk mail we all get!

Knuckles. The design is different but here's a pic anyways.

The bottom caps. They both ride on a trunion bearing at the bottom but the D60 has a bearing substantially larger as seen by the size of that center pin that inserts into the bearing.

Hi-Steer arms. Neither are stock and there are a lot of choices for the D60 but I went with NorthWest Fab springless arms set up for GM TREs. I was running Marlin's arms on my Landcruiser axle. You can see that they are roughly the same length but the stud holes for the D60 are spaced wider apart. The NWF arms have a 5th hole in them for that option on beefier knuckles. NWF addresses ackerman angle with their arms and since I spend a decent amount of tire life on the road that was important to me.

Toyota arms are bent for clearance. I may try to weight the NWF arms because they really are stout.

The heims in my last set up treated me well. I liked them. This time I decided to try out GM TREs and if they didn't hold up I could always drill out the arms for heims; it's harder going the other way. After seeing the comparison between the GM TREs and the FJ80 TREs I don't think I'll be disappointed. I had in my mind that FJ80 TREs where equivalent to the GM TRE's (commonly called 1 ton TREs) but they really aren't the same. I think (at least I hope) I'll be happy with the GM stuff.

The tube inserts are made for the GM hardware.

I had some gears to compare although it's not really fair because the D60 pinion was a 3.54 ratio and that pinion head is huge. The 4.10 ratio pinion I'm installing has a smaller head but the rest of the shaft is all the same so that's comparable.

Ring gears. D60 ring gear is 9.75 inch.

 

[boots4]

Dana 60 comparison cont.

Locking hubs. I like the feel of the Landcruiser hubs. I don't know yet if the stock D60 locking hubs will be as smooth as the aisins. The stock center dial is not metal on the D60 like it is on the aisins.

There are more outer splines for engagement on the D60.

They are both for 30 spline outer axles.

Brake calipers are different designs, floating verses fixed. One massive piston verses four. These are 4 runner calipers that I had on the Landcruiser. The D60 pads have more contact patch.

Short side axles. Landcruiser axles are stockers. The D60 stockers for the dodge are 35 spline inners with 30 spline outers.

 

[handcannon]

Thanks for that comparison. Definitely shows that the D60 stuff is beefy.

Don

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Sweet comparison Mike. That really shows how much more stout the stock D60 stuff is.

Are you going to keep the 1 ton calipers or change them out for 3/4 ton calipers? I am going to keep mine and run the MC that came with the chevy truck, at least that's the plan for now.

 

[boots4]

Are you going to keep the 1 ton calipers or change them out for 3/4 ton calipers? I am going to keep mine and run the MC that came with the chevy truck, at least that's the plan for now.

I am keeping the 1 ton calipers. I have those dual piston monsters on the rear like you do so perhaps with these 1 tons up front I can shift the earth when I slam on my brakes.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

...so perhaps with these 1 tons up front I can shift the earth when I slam on my brakes.

Exactly what I'm thinking. The huge calipers will help with towing too. Since we've got plenty of torque to get going, we've got to have the brakes to slow it down!

 

[boots4]

Update

I wasn't sure if I was going to attempt replacing the kingpins or not. They did show a little bit of odd wear and there were new ones included in my knuckle rebuild kits so I decided to go for it; however, the problem is they are know for being very well installed with 500-600 ft lbs. After researching and talking to a few people I found the trick I wanted to use. The trick is to use an angle grinder and relief cut at the base of the kingpin without cutting through it and without hitting the inner-C. Since I get plenty of practice with my angle grinder this sounded like a piece of cake.

With the relief cut there is no longer 500-600 ft lbs holding the kingpin in. Brokenparts send me over his 7/8" hex stock used to insert into the kingpin and then you use a 7/8" socket on your favorite breaker bar to pop them loose. It worked like a dream and I was able to do it all myself without busting tools or busting knuckles.

With a few parts still trickling in and others ready to go I worked on installing the bottom trunion bearings. With the axle out it was easiest to do these now since I was able to flip it upside down and work from above. First goes the metal cap. I coated the sealing surfaces of the cap and hole with RTV just because I thought it was a good idea.

Next I drove in the new race using the old race that I had clearanced.

Packed the bearing and plopped it in.

Last I installed the seal to keep the bearing in. I taped it shut to keep out stuff as I moved the axle around and did other work to it.

With a new axle going in up front I decided to change a few things around. I had to figure out some way to outboard the springs anyways so now was the time to improve. I removed the front horns almost back to the cross brace and contemplated different ways of rebuilding it. I originally planned to box a new section up front but that would mean changing how I mounted my bumper and redoing the bumper too. Ultimately I decided to just rebuild the horns and create some additional support.

The other thing I wanted to do was change out the front springs. They were getting a little bit of a W in them which I have now learned was mostly due to how I stacked the pack. I needed a little bigger transition from one leaf to the next to get the pack working better together. It didn't matter because I wanted to step up to 3" wide springs to support the engine better and get me more lateral support since I'm running long springs. I picked up a pair of 2006 Ford F350 rear packs in the 3300 lb range and removed the top helper leaf but am leaving the overloads underneath. They are nice springs, are 58" long like my last set, and have an offset pin (25" x 33") very close to what I was running to allow me to keep the axle forward. In fact I might gain one more inch in wheelbase.

I also am keeping my SR. My set up has worked very well for the things I have done and while it would have been easier to outboard with the shackles forward I guess I wanted the challenge. That challenge was to keep it nice and low like I had before. So with all of that here's what I came up with.

I made a sub-member for the spring hangers to be welded to the frame horns to support the outboard. While I'm showing finalized welded pics I started with tacking to play with different ideas. Most of the bracing has now been added to support the outboard. I fought some wire feeding issues and got it cleared up by stepping up to .35 wire instead of running .30 like I had been. I'll need to replace my drive wheels in my Ready Welder if I want to run .30 again because I think they are worn out. I have also since sanded and painted with primer these parts to keep the elements from making themselves at home.

I made my own spring plates since I'm going with a wider spring. Neither the original plates with the axle or the original plates that came with my leaf springs would work so I just made my own. I am also using the original spring mounts on the axle.

With the weight of the rig on the springs my caster will be 5 degrees. At this point I am not doing a cut and turn. The main reason being the passenger side spring perch is cast into the differential housing so I'm going to see how it works without having to change that perch.

On to the rear shackle hanger. First I decided to use the factory shackles on the F350 springs and then design a hanger around it. After reviewing/measuring how the factory set these springs up on a couple of F350s I found in parking lots I made my decision and picked a spot; this would set my shackle angle. I've made this point as high as I could to keep the lift low. I sleeved the hole in the frame and that upper bolt goes all the way through the other side. I had to order it online as my local hardware store didn't have one long enough. They are 7.5" long grade 8 bolts. I captured the outside of the bolt with kind of a link idea. I may run into clearance issues with the shackle body hitting/rubbing the frame and depending on how far these shackles will move the lower bolt itself will hit the frame. I will perform clearancing after I see it cycle to see if it actually will make contact but I wanted to keep it as low as I could with the components I was using. The big hole is where my old shackle bushings were with the previous set up.

Welding was tight on top but I was able to get a couple of booger welds up top that I can cover up with paint.

The other interesting thing about my leaf set up is that they are not parallel. This isn't new because the Dodge frame that I have that I pulled this axle from is also that way, the front distance between the springs is shorter than the distance between the rear of the springs. The spring perches themselves are slightly this way on the axle itself. Doing it this way also kept everything more simple. I could keep the rear of the spring right outside the frame and suck it up instead of having to french something into the frame and with the front closer together the spring pins hit the perch holes just perfect. I did clearance the overload leaf on the passenger side to help make it fit but think I only took off 1/8 to maybe 3/16 of material in that one spot that would interfere with the diff housing. There is actually more geometry going into a leaf set up than just slapping them under the frame. There are obvious ones like shackle angle/length but also front to rear eye mounting height and parallel or not mounting angles aside from leaf designs themselves. I played with the other geometries as well this round and am looking forward to see how all of this works in real world conditions.

 

[handcannon]

"The other interesting thing about my leaf set up is that they are not parallel. This isn't new because the Dodge frame that I have that I pulled this axle from is also that way, the front distance between the springs is shorter than the distance between the rear of the springs."

What is the difference in width between the spring eyes, front and back? Someday I'll get to the place where I'll be able to put a 60 series axle under the front of my 40. A non-parallel set of springs is something I've wondered about.

Don

 

[boots4]

I have a 3.5" difference between the front and back of my springs. If I understood it right I'll have a little more stability in cornering up front.

 

[jeffsclan]

Mike, do think this would affect the spring bushings by putting them on too much of a bind ? I love your out of the box thinking.

 

[handcannon]

Thank you for the reply. I'm definitely interested in how this works out for you. Please keep us informed on how it works, whether positive or negative.

Don

 

[boots4]

Mike, do think this would affect the spring bushings by putting them on too much of a bind ?

If you don't accommodate in the spring hanger than yes I think you'd have binding but I suspect small differences like mine won't have a problem. I also have massive rubber bushings that came with the springs that are in great shape that I'm using so that too will absorb some of the difference. The rear hangers are on the angled part of my frame, the front hangers are more straight but include a little angle.

 

[brokenparts]

It finally happened... lol

Looks good Mike.

 

[boots4]

Update

The WFO Concepts pinion flange did not have the right mounting pattern for my driveshaft so I used an old yoke as a guide to get holes lined up correctly and drilled a new pattern.

I used a standard drill bit to make the hole and then a stepped bit to put a little chamfer on those holes.

New pattern done.

Confirmation fit. It does look like I'll probably need to clearance the yoke some since the axle isn't completely at the bottom of it's travel. Hopefully I'll be able to get away with just clearancing and not have to redesign that part of the driveshaft.

I'm not sure if this is standard on all D60s but there was a flat landing where the diff breather was on the top of the housing. The breather was originally in the left hole. I drilled and tapped that hole for the air line fitting for the locker and then drilled a new hole to the right and tapped it for the breather port.

The zip locker on the left and the open carrier on the right. I took a couple of different measurements to help get started with shim stacks for the new locker and gear set.

Cleaned up the used 4.10 gear set I picked up.

Set my ring gear on the wood stove in the house for a hour while a did some other work. Once warmed up I grabbed it and it slid on to the carrier without much issue. I started (didn't tighten) all the new bolts and then tapped on the gear to make sure it was seated. I then snugged up a couple bolts. I used my press to keep the carrier in place while I applied red locktight and torqued down the bolts in sequence.

I had a buddy coming that weekend to give me a hand at setting up the gears. I hadn't done a gear swap yet so I wanted to see what it was about and since I had a resource who's done it before I wanted to give it a shot. I read several install procedures, prepped the work area, and measured shim stacks to get ready for the weekend.

 

[Tapage]

small hijack .. gotta love carrier adjusters in Toy 3rds ..

 

[boots4]

Yes, also the 14bolt has side adjusters. Those would have been much easier to play with. I probably took that 50 lb carrier in and out of the housing 25 times! Half of it was experimentation but now I know. Getting good readings on used gears was a challenge but that part is done now and I'm now on painting and reassembly.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Yes, also the 14bolt has side adjusters. Those would have been much easier to play with. I probably took that 50 lb carrier in and out of the housing 25 times! Half of it was experimentation but now I know. Getting good readings on used gears was a challenge but that part is done now and I'm now on painting and reassembly.

That's brutal. I didn't realize that the D60 doesn't have carrier adjusters!

Tapage, the Toy e-locker thirds don't have carrier adjusters, just shims, so not all Toy diffs are easy

 

[Tapage]

Tapage, the Toy e-locker thirds don't have carrier adjusters, just shims, so not all Toy diffs are easy

that's why I don't have Mr. T E-Lockers ..

 

[snowkistdynasty]

Hey Mike, it's Jared Stone. Awesome rig and thread. This really is inspiring to watch. I know we lost touch but the next time you come through Utah you can stay with us if you want. Hey I was wondering if there is any plans to change the leaf springs to coils?