The love... see this is why I keep so much of my work secret!
"what work?"
"you actually work on your junk?"
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The love... see this is why I keep so much of my work secret!
"what work?"
"you actually work on your junk?"
- Thread starter
- #1,362
Update
So let's play catch up. Last I left off with is that bolt suck in the tranny adapter. I spent way too much time on it.
I did not have any luck with penetrating oil, heat, rocking it, a combination of both, or even swearing at it. I just ended up nibbling it down to a nub that I couldn't grab anymore. So I fired up the angle grinder and flattened off the head and drilled it. I broke a couple of bits and a couple of taps but I enlarged it to 1/2".
This also meant that I needed to open up the hole on the tranny bell. It's the top hole in the below pic.
Before I put the engine back in I noticed that my side cover was not sealing and I was getting some oil drips down the side of the block. I had put oil in the tappets and inserting the pushrods squished some out and it was making it's way outside. I took it off to see what I could do.
I put it in the vice and bent the lip so that it would give the gasket kind of a tension seal when pressed up against the block.
After cleaning off the mating surface I slid the cover back in and assisted the rubber gasket with some sealant. Seems to be holding up now.
I couldn't figure out a reason to stall any longer so I inched it over to Dora and started lifting.
With some
help we guided it passed the radiator support and dropped it in. We took our time and adjusted several times to get the tranny, engine, torque converter pilot, and engine mounts to line up. It was an up and down kind of affair since the engine sits tilted in the bay and not on the engine hoist. Once it got pretty close I inserted a few tranny bolts to help keep it in line and that helped tilt the engine and adjust on the engine mounts. Anyways we got it in and I bolted it down.
Closer shot. I think Dora dropped 3 inches with the engine weight.
I had used the peel 'n stick weatherstripping to close in the gap between the radiator and the intercooler and I wasn't happy with it so I cut up some rubber filler from my mud flap project and glued some pieces together.
I was a good snug fit but I put in a swallow little screw just to keep it in place. I repeated this for the other side.
I cut out a flap for the bottom. This part of the intercooler is just a brace (not air passage) so I drilled some small holes and attached it with some screws.
I had two radiator leaks. One of them ended up being the o-ring on the drain cock. I found an o-ring at the local hardware store and it fixed that one. The other was from one of the vertical bars on the rear most core/row. I simply pinched off that bar on the top and bottoms so it would see no coolant flow. This will buy me a little more time with this radiator but it'll need to be replaced in the future. For now this will work.
So let's play catch up. Last I left off with is that bolt suck in the tranny adapter. I spent way too much time on it.
I did not have any luck with penetrating oil, heat, rocking it, a combination of both, or even swearing at it. I just ended up nibbling it down to a nub that I couldn't grab anymore. So I fired up the angle grinder and flattened off the head and drilled it. I broke a couple of bits and a couple of taps but I enlarged it to 1/2".
This also meant that I needed to open up the hole on the tranny bell. It's the top hole in the below pic.
Before I put the engine back in I noticed that my side cover was not sealing and I was getting some oil drips down the side of the block. I had put oil in the tappets and inserting the pushrods squished some out and it was making it's way outside. I took it off to see what I could do.
I put it in the vice and bent the lip so that it would give the gasket kind of a tension seal when pressed up against the block.
After cleaning off the mating surface I slid the cover back in and assisted the rubber gasket with some sealant. Seems to be holding up now.
I couldn't figure out a reason to stall any longer so I inched it over to Dora and started lifting.
With some
help we guided it passed the radiator support and dropped it in. We took our time and adjusted several times to get the tranny, engine, torque converter pilot, and engine mounts to line up. It was an up and down kind of affair since the engine sits tilted in the bay and not on the engine hoist. Once it got pretty close I inserted a few tranny bolts to help keep it in line and that helped tilt the engine and adjust on the engine mounts. Anyways we got it in and I bolted it down.
Closer shot. I think Dora dropped 3 inches with the engine weight.
I had used the peel 'n stick weatherstripping to close in the gap between the radiator and the intercooler and I wasn't happy with it so I cut up some rubber filler from my mud flap project and glued some pieces together.
I was a good snug fit but I put in a swallow little screw just to keep it in place. I repeated this for the other side.
I cut out a flap for the bottom. This part of the intercooler is just a brace (not air passage) so I drilled some small holes and attached it with some screws.
I had two radiator leaks. One of them ended up being the o-ring on the drain cock. I found an o-ring at the local hardware store and it fixed that one. The other was from one of the vertical bars on the rear most core/row. I simply pinched off that bar on the top and bottoms so it would see no coolant flow. This will buy me a little more time with this radiator but it'll need to be replaced in the future. For now this will work.
Last edited:
I'm bummed to see you're not going to make it to Moab. Been looking forward to checking this rig out. I'm just buttoning up a few things up on mine and heading for the Hammers Friday then off to Moab next Tuesday.
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
- Threads
- 162
- Messages
- 4,044
- Location
- Hillsboro, OR
- Website
- www.cascadecruisers.com
more please....
- Thread starter
- #1,365
Ditto. Bummed I won't be there and bummed I won't get to see your 60 as well.
- Thread starter
- #1,366
Update Cont
Continuing the catch up.
I bought my fluids and filters for coolant refill and two oil changes.
My front fascia was pitted as bad an a teenage boy's face going through puberty a week before yearbook pics. I at least wanted to sand off the rust pits and give it some protection. This was a quicky as I'd really like to clean up the lines I cut out for tire steering clearance. I'll also eventually put texture on it and finish it with rustbullet to wrap around the theme from my fenders. So I sanded down the rust pits.
Shot it with some primer.
And then I painted it with a much brighter white than the rest of the truck. Good enough for now. While I was waiting for paint to dry I was hooking up the engine. Finished the plumbing, hooked up the sensors, and bolted on the intake. I wanted to get to the steering lines next and I wanted to incorporate the cooler that Brokenparts was getting rid of and gave me but I wasn't sure where I wanted to put it. I'd thought about it here and there throughout the rebuild and played with placement but I didn't want to put it in front of the cooling row. I would have to move it if I ever got around to the A/C project. I finally found a spot to mount it and that's under the radiator. By mounting it there it would be out of the way and protected with the metal engine plate bolted back on and it would get some kind of air flow. If it's not enough air flow I can install a little fan with the space available. So now I had to build a mount that would work and this is what I came up with.
I used existing holes in the bracing that gussets the front crossmember to the frame to attach this mount to. It sits at about this angle this under the radiator.
I already had white speckles on my glasses from the fascia so I added some black and painted the mount. The cooler is rubber isolated/sandwiched through bolts I welded to the mount. It's firm but not crushed down. I forgot to take pics of it actually mounted on the rig so I'll have to get those to help show what I'm talking about being under the radiator.
I then hooked up all the steering lines. The engine swallowed 11 quarts of oil and the cooling system took about 3 gallons of coolant. I filled the powersteering with the same ATF I use in my tranny to simplify fluid's I have to carry. Somehow I got the new battery into it's spot and hooked up the cables. Filled my fuel filter with diesel and spun it on. I made sure my tranny bolts were tight and bolted up the t.converter. During hook up I hooked the main battery up to the charger so I'd have some juice to use when turning it over. At this point I hadn't put my hood back on. I clicked the starter just to see if the engine would turn over and nothing jammed so I went on to bleeding the injectors. I put a rag under and around the injector so it wouldn't spray diesel everywhere as I cranked over the engine. I cracked No. 1 and spun the engine for about 5-10 seconds. Tightened it up and moved on to No.2. If it was still dry I turned it over again and then moved onto No.3. This time it stumbled to start so I tightened No. 3 and cracked No. 4. It started and stumbled but I shut it off to close up No. 4. Obviously I'm doing this solo. After No.4 was tight I started it up and it stumbled for about 10 sec and then smoothed out and just purred. The 4bt was back to life and Dora had a working powerplant! The engine sounded great, it was quieter and smoother. With the 4bt running I could then cycle the steering to bleed out the air and take it for a spin. I was hopeful that I'd actually get to drive it to work the next day....
Continuing the catch up.
I bought my fluids and filters for coolant refill and two oil changes.
My front fascia was pitted as bad an a teenage boy's face going through puberty a week before yearbook pics. I at least wanted to sand off the rust pits and give it some protection. This was a quicky as I'd really like to clean up the lines I cut out for tire steering clearance. I'll also eventually put texture on it and finish it with rustbullet to wrap around the theme from my fenders. So I sanded down the rust pits.
Shot it with some primer.
And then I painted it with a much brighter white than the rest of the truck. Good enough for now. While I was waiting for paint to dry I was hooking up the engine. Finished the plumbing, hooked up the sensors, and bolted on the intake. I wanted to get to the steering lines next and I wanted to incorporate the cooler that Brokenparts was getting rid of and gave me but I wasn't sure where I wanted to put it. I'd thought about it here and there throughout the rebuild and played with placement but I didn't want to put it in front of the cooling row. I would have to move it if I ever got around to the A/C project. I finally found a spot to mount it and that's under the radiator. By mounting it there it would be out of the way and protected with the metal engine plate bolted back on and it would get some kind of air flow. If it's not enough air flow I can install a little fan with the space available. So now I had to build a mount that would work and this is what I came up with.
I used existing holes in the bracing that gussets the front crossmember to the frame to attach this mount to. It sits at about this angle this under the radiator.
I already had white speckles on my glasses from the fascia so I added some black and painted the mount. The cooler is rubber isolated/sandwiched through bolts I welded to the mount. It's firm but not crushed down. I forgot to take pics of it actually mounted on the rig so I'll have to get those to help show what I'm talking about being under the radiator.
I then hooked up all the steering lines. The engine swallowed 11 quarts of oil and the cooling system took about 3 gallons of coolant. I filled the powersteering with the same ATF I use in my tranny to simplify fluid's I have to carry. Somehow I got the new battery into it's spot and hooked up the cables. Filled my fuel filter with diesel and spun it on. I made sure my tranny bolts were tight and bolted up the t.converter. During hook up I hooked the main battery up to the charger so I'd have some juice to use when turning it over. At this point I hadn't put my hood back on. I clicked the starter just to see if the engine would turn over and nothing jammed so I went on to bleeding the injectors. I put a rag under and around the injector so it wouldn't spray diesel everywhere as I cranked over the engine. I cracked No. 1 and spun the engine for about 5-10 seconds. Tightened it up and moved on to No.2. If it was still dry I turned it over again and then moved onto No.3. This time it stumbled to start so I tightened No. 3 and cracked No. 4. It started and stumbled but I shut it off to close up No. 4. Obviously I'm doing this solo. After No.4 was tight I started it up and it stumbled for about 10 sec and then smoothed out and just purred. The 4bt was back to life and Dora had a working powerplant! The engine sounded great, it was quieter and smoother. With the 4bt running I could then cycle the steering to bleed out the air and take it for a spin. I was hopeful that I'd actually get to drive it to work the next day....
Last edited:
This is like a story!!! What a cliffhanger.
- Thread starter
- #1,369
Update cont.
We put the hood back on and I lifted the front end off the ground to cycle the steering for bleeding. It just didn't seem to get that light feeling I was looking for but I decided to drive it around the block to see if that would help. Well, no pressure from the pump not only means strong arm steering but knee popping manual brakes since I run hydroboost. I went slow but while trying to come to a stop the engine would over power my foot hydraulics even when idling! I threw it in neutral and got it to stop. Around the block didn't bleed any air so I parked it for the night and resorted to taking the car to work for another week. My sweet has been without a car for several weeks and doesn't even complain about. She's just sad for me to be faced with a mystery problem to figure out.
Since I did the rebuild I couldn't rule out a mess up so that meant pulling it off. I drained it and it got a little messy. The bottom bolt now has limited access due to proximity to the frame and the steering gear box also limiting wrench travel. I bought a racheting wrench (can't get a socket in there) and found it too was too thick to get into the spot it needs to get. An open end wrench is pretty much it but a normal sized open end was too long to get any travel before it would hit the frame or the engine. I resorted to sacrificing an open end by turning it into a stubby and with that I was able to get the range of motion needed to loosen that bolt. Alright... two nights after work killed and I finally get the pump off the engine. I look inside for missing seals, wrong turned vanes, or backward parts but nothing is out of place. So a wipe down and back in it goes, fill it up, try and bleed it and no pressure.
Continued research and figured the thing I modified was the pressure relief assembly. Enlisted the help of someone smarter than I and figured the mods I made are not working together. I drilled the flow nut and increased pressure by removing a shim in the pressure relief piston. He suggested increasing pressure further because my flow size was too big and it wasn't building pressure so we determined a thickness and I went to the hardware store to see what I could find. Basically by increasing the tension on the spring you are increasing the amount of pressure the pump sees before the seal is broken to bleed pressure. A power steering pump is designed this way so that you get good assist/pressure at low rpm and then at higher rpm when the pump is spinning and producing lots more pressure the relief valve bleeds it off so it doesn't hurt the system. Anyways here's the washer I found. This time I could leave the pump mounted and just remove the pressure assembly.
WARNING!! (ADDED 5/2010): The following arrangement caused pressure bleed too early which resulted in a no to low pressure result. DO NOT follow this assembly. Please refer to IH8MUD.com - View Single Post - Family haulin' for the correct washer placement.
This is where I put the washer. It is a 3mm washer at .018" thickness that I shaved to .016". That's what he determined and I trust him.
I put this in, hooked up the hose, and filled it back up. I started bleeding it and checking my fluid level. Then all of the sudden I had feather light steering. I'd press the brakes and if I press hard enough I can get it to load the engine and drop some rpms so I knew I was now getting PRESSURE! I dropped it on the ground and the assist made it easy to turn the wheel. I then had my come out and cycle the steering on the ground while I checked out the linkage. She turned passenger and I told her to hold it there, then we heard a weird sound, it was 1-2 second long and started like a fluid strain and got loud like a belt squeal. Then it was over and she said the wheel got heavy so I told her to turn it off. I looked for leaks, checked my connections and looked at the fluid. Nothing seemed out of order so I started the engine again and there was no pressure. 
I drained it AGAIN and took out the pressure relief piston. The end had a bunch of material on it, not metal but fibrous. This is the intake for the pressure relief and as the pressure in the pump builds up it goes through here to push against the ball seal and once the pressure overcomes the spring tension it'll bleed the pressure. So I cleaned the screen off, put it back in, filled up the reservoir, crossed my fingers that it was that simple and started the engine.... no pressure.
Called up my friend to pick his brain and while I was waiting for a call back I figured since I'd become a pro at it I might as well take the pump off. So I drained the fluid (I really should just put a drain plug on this thing!), removed the hoses, dripped ATF everywhere and got out my stubby wrench for the bottom bolt. Oh and I have to take one of the engine mount bolts out to get a better angle on that bottom bolt too. As I took the pump off something did not seem right. The pump did not come out like this, like it should.
It came out like this.
Well, I better open it up to see what happened. There is a clip that holds the vane head onto that shaft so maybe that came off. I got it open and found my problem, I had sheared the pump shaft!!!
I've never heard of this happening but here it was. These are strong pumps with good parts so I wasn't sure how the shaft would have been weak like that. I got my call back and told him what I found and then we put it together. Due to the blockage on the intake screen to the pressure relief valve there was no pressure being bled. When I had my keep the wheel turned this build an incredible amount of pressure that couldn't be bled and with a gear driven pump powered by diesel low end torque the pressure built up so much that it stopped the vane head from spinning and it was no match for the reciprocating mass of the diesel components so something had to give and I was fortunate that it was only the shaft that sheared. According to guess calculations we figured the mods gave me around 1700psi max before bleeding. He figured the pump head saw 5-8x's that amount causing a fluid lock! So these are strong pumps. And what caused that fibrous blockage on the intake screen? ME . I wiped down the pump with a rag that left lint everywhere, consequently hard to see when wet, and when that lint lifted and flowed with the fluid it got caught on the screen and keep fluid from entering the pressure relief valve. Boom.
At that time Brokenparts had called back and we found one of his pumps had the same shaft size and would work (I needed a 3/4" shaft diameter). We were in the area on tuesday so he left the pump out and I picked it up. I especially like his choice of hose plug.
I opened it up and its vane head and thrust plate weren't in good condition so I mixed and matched parts to make the best pump. I didn't reuse my body because of the metal chips that got into my shaft bushing but I reused all of my internals and seals minus the sheared shaft. I also cleaned differently with a final spray of parts cleaner and an air dry from compressed air. Lesson learned.
came out to check on me and found me deep into it. In my defense, sometimes you just have to get into the right position.
With the pump back together, bolted up and hoses attached I filled it and started up the engine to prime. Guess what... no pressure.
I was beyond crying or laughing, I was just numb. Maybe this pump doesn't like my modded pressure assembly. I drained the fluid, cleaned up the stock pressure assembly that came with this pump and put it in. Hooked up hose and filled with fluid... no pressure. You know even with all this selling it never ever crossed my mind. I know it's something simple and with a good nights rest and some more thought I have another plan.
There were some drips I saw later coming from the canned ham housing and when I put it back on the pump I remember thinking that the housing seal looked a little funny but I went ahead and put it back in the truck. After another call and some thought the pump may be pulling in air when spinning thus cavitating causing it not to prime. It was too late to do anything about it before starting work the next day so Dora sits another week with an engine just waiting to be broken in. I think I'm all caught up now.
We put the hood back on and I lifted the front end off the ground to cycle the steering for bleeding. It just didn't seem to get that light feeling I was looking for but I decided to drive it around the block to see if that would help. Well, no pressure from the pump not only means strong arm steering but knee popping manual brakes since I run hydroboost. I went slow but while trying to come to a stop the engine would over power my foot hydraulics even when idling! I threw it in neutral and got it to stop. Around the block didn't bleed any air so I parked it for the night and resorted to taking the car to work for another week. My sweet
has been without a car for several weeks and doesn't even complain about. She's just sad for me to be faced with a mystery problem to figure out. Since I did the rebuild I couldn't rule out a mess up so that meant pulling it off. I drained it and it got a little messy. The bottom bolt now has limited access due to proximity to the frame and the steering gear box also limiting wrench travel. I bought a racheting wrench (can't get a socket in there) and found it too was too thick to get into the spot it needs to get. An open end wrench is pretty much it but a normal sized open end was too long to get any travel before it would hit the frame or the engine. I resorted to sacrificing an open end by turning it into a stubby and with that I was able to get the range of motion needed to loosen that bolt. Alright... two nights after work killed and I finally get the pump off the engine. I look inside for missing seals, wrong turned vanes, or backward parts but nothing is out of place. So a wipe down and back in it goes, fill it up, try and bleed it and no pressure.
Continued research and figured the thing I modified was the pressure relief assembly. Enlisted the help of someone smarter than I and figured the mods I made are not working together. I drilled the flow nut and increased pressure by removing a shim in the pressure relief piston. He suggested increasing pressure further because my flow size was too big and it wasn't building pressure so we determined a thickness and I went to the hardware store to see what I could find. Basically by increasing the tension on the spring you are increasing the amount of pressure the pump sees before the seal is broken to bleed pressure. A power steering pump is designed this way so that you get good assist/pressure at low rpm and then at higher rpm when the pump is spinning and producing lots more pressure the relief valve bleeds it off so it doesn't hurt the system. Anyways here's the washer I found. This time I could leave the pump mounted and just remove the pressure assembly.
WARNING!! (ADDED 5/2010): The following arrangement caused pressure bleed too early which resulted in a no to low pressure result. DO NOT follow this assembly. Please refer to IH8MUD.com - View Single Post - Family haulin' for the correct washer placement.
This is where I put the washer. It is a 3mm washer at .018" thickness that I shaved to .016". That's what he determined and I trust him.
I put this in, hooked up the hose, and filled it back up. I started bleeding it and checking my fluid level. Then all of the sudden I had feather light steering. I'd press the brakes and if I press hard enough I can get it to load the engine and drop some rpms so I knew I was now getting PRESSURE! I dropped it on the ground and the assist made it easy to turn the wheel. I then had my
come out and cycle the steering on the ground while I checked out the linkage. She turned passenger and I told her to hold it there, then we heard a weird sound, it was 1-2 second long and started like a fluid strain and got loud like a belt squeal. Then it was over and she said the wheel got heavy so I told her to turn it off. I looked for leaks, checked my connections and looked at the fluid. Nothing seemed out of order so I started the engine again and there was no pressure. I drained it AGAIN and took out the pressure relief piston. The end had a bunch of material on it, not metal but fibrous. This is the intake for the pressure relief and as the pressure in the pump builds up it goes through here to push against the ball seal and once the pressure overcomes the spring tension it'll bleed the pressure. So I cleaned the screen off, put it back in, filled up the reservoir, crossed my fingers that it was that simple and started the engine.... no pressure.
Called up my friend to pick his brain and while I was waiting for a call back I figured since I'd become a pro at it I might as well take the pump off. So I drained the fluid (I really should just put a drain plug on this thing!), removed the hoses, dripped ATF everywhere and got out my stubby wrench for the bottom bolt. Oh and I have to take one of the engine mount bolts out to get a better angle on that bottom bolt too. As I took the pump off something did not seem right. The pump did not come out like this, like it should.
It came out like this.
Well, I better open it up to see what happened. There is a clip that holds the vane head onto that shaft so maybe that came off. I got it open and found my problem, I had sheared the pump shaft!!!
I've never heard of this happening but here it was. These are strong pumps with good parts so I wasn't sure how the shaft would have been weak like that. I got my call back and told him what I found and then we put it together. Due to the blockage on the intake screen to the pressure relief valve there was no pressure being bled. When I had my
keep the wheel turned this build an incredible amount of pressure that couldn't be bled and with a gear driven pump powered by diesel low end torque the pressure built up so much that it stopped the vane head from spinning and it was no match for the reciprocating mass of the diesel components so something had to give and I was fortunate that it was only the shaft that sheared. According to guess calculations we figured the mods gave me around 1700psi max before bleeding. He figured the pump head saw 5-8x's that amount causing a fluid lock! So these are strong pumps. And what caused that fibrous blockage on the intake screen? ME . I wiped down the pump with a rag that left lint everywhere, consequently hard to see when wet, and when that lint lifted and flowed with the fluid it got caught on the screen and keep fluid from entering the pressure relief valve. Boom. At that time Brokenparts had called back and we found one of his pumps had the same shaft size and would work (I needed a 3/4" shaft diameter). We were in the area on tuesday so he left the pump out and I picked it up. I especially like his choice of hose plug.
I opened it up and its vane head and thrust plate weren't in good condition so I mixed and matched parts to make the best pump. I didn't reuse my body because of the metal chips that got into my shaft bushing but I reused all of my internals and seals minus the sheared shaft. I also cleaned differently with a final spray of parts cleaner and an air dry from compressed air. Lesson learned.
came out to check on me and found me deep into it. In my defense, sometimes you just have to get into the right position.
With the pump back together, bolted up and hoses attached I filled it and started up the engine to prime. Guess what... no pressure.
I was beyond crying or laughing, I was just numb. Maybe this pump doesn't like my modded pressure assembly. I drained the fluid, cleaned up the stock pressure assembly that came with this pump and put it in. Hooked up hose and filled with fluid... no pressure. You know even with all this selling it never ever crossed my mind. I know it's something simple and with a good nights rest and some more thought I have another plan.
There were some drips I saw later coming from the canned ham housing and when I put it back on the pump I remember thinking that the housing seal looked a little funny but I went ahead and put it back in the truck. After another call and some thought the pump may be pulling in air when spinning thus cavitating causing it not to prime. It was too late to do anything about it before starting work the next day so Dora sits another week with an engine just waiting to be broken in. I think I'm all caught up now.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
- Threads
- 162
- Messages
- 4,044
- Location
- Hillsboro, OR
- Website
- www.cascadecruisers.com
DOH!!!!!
How about plugging up the assit ports, brake stuff and the cooler for now and running the stock pressure junk to try to eliminate some of the parts of the system? Then you could introduce part by part to see where the problem might be?
How about plugging up the assit ports, brake stuff and the cooler for now and running the stock pressure junk to try to eliminate some of the parts of the system? Then you could introduce part by part to see where the problem might be?
I think Im addicted to this thread...
- Thread starter
- #1,372
All good ideas I may end up doing.
I'm sorry to hear about your troubles Mike but damn this thread is good, 
You are bleeding your PS system incorrectly, Don't run the truck, all you will do is pump the system full of air. Lift the tires off the ground and cycle the steering back and forth for 15 mins or so. Walk away, have a beer, come back and do it again. If you have a spotter have them watch for bubbles.
Since the fluid circulates back to the resevoir, the air pocket ends up there as long as the resevoir is filled past the point where air can be reintroduced into the pressure line. I have never had to bleed PS in he way most people desribe on this forum, I just top it off and drive conservatively for a time and check the level again. Never failed. The bubbles will dissipate and end up in the resevoir. Usually it works to bring the fluid level up past full, near the top of the resevoir as it will go down as the air works out.
- Thread starter
- #1,376
I actually did do it both ways with the truck not started (although I didn't wait as long) and with it started. The first time either way made no difference and I never had this much of a problem before with priming. Filling and running when I did get my pressure did work and it was probably around 1 minute when I felt the pressure build, but I had to learn the lint lesson.
Once I investigate my drip I will try it again without starting and see if it works, if not I can then start it and go from there.
Once I investigate my drip I will try it again without starting and see if it works, if not I can then start it and go from there.
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Hey boots- you need to get a manlift or somethin' to work on that thing..
(SHOP)
I am right there with you Mike. I want my own clean shop. I love that i can use my dads but it's just way to full. lol
Joe
I am right there with you Mike. I want my own clean shop. I love that i can use my dads but it's just way to full. lol
Joe