Build Family haulin'

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looking good man! congrats on the hizouse. I will be around the following week to break in the new shop!!


btw the welder works wonders with gas sheilding! ;)

clint
 
Mike decided to tryout the U-hauls offroad capabilities in the front yard.... and got stuck. :)

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the good news is his landcruiser yanked it right out.


Hope your getting settled in at the new place Mike....
 
Makes for a nice low step when unloading. That first step can be a doozey otherwise.

Don
 
Thanks Zack. What you failed to share was who was spotting me. :p Thanks for patching it up after I scrapped the weeds off the front lawn and thanks for helping with our move, it is much appreciated!

It's been wet this week and the back yard was getting soggy but the landlord has been decent about it since I have to back up my trailer on the lawn to get stuff. After the big move there are a few things left and a couple trailer loads so I'm getting all those with Dora; we're not officially out until the 11th. A couple of decently heavy loads should help the rings seat and already during the first load she felt stronger. I do think my fuel cut-out solenoid is on its way out as I'm shutting off the engine now with my rednecked choke cable hooked up to the manual fuel cut-off lever. It works but I'll investigate once I've got some time to breathe. I'll have a couple adjustments to make as idle is a little lower now and I dropped 2-3 psi on boost but overall she's running great.

We're loving the new place and I'm excited to get an actually running shop set up. My Pa was in town to help with the move and we've done a couple projects on the shop. We replaced the door, wired up better lighting and concreted in an odd open hole in the the shop floor (may have been an oil sump from many years ago). I plan to hit up craigslist to see what kind of cabinetry and shelving are floating around. My commute to work doubled but it's only a 1/2 hr and was expected. This should be better for my diesel to get up to operating temps anyways.
 
Yeah, that van was a piece. It had starting problems/quirks, the tranny didn't want to shift out of 1st gear, the rear end felt like it was going to fall out whenever I hit a bump on the road, and I could feel the vortex like sucking action pulling bills from my wallet and swallowing it them in the gas tank. It did however have excellent brakes and a healthy power steering system. Overall it felt like it was worn out but it got the job done.
 
boots4 said:
I plan to hit up craigslist to see what kind of cabinetry and shelving are floating around. My commute to work doubled but it's only a 1/2 hr and was expected. This should be better for my diesel to get up to operating temps anyways.
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Check with local cabinet shops. More remodels being done than new construction right now. Cabinet shops may be able to line you up with one of their customers/contractors who are about to tear out an old kitchen.

Don
 
Mike! Glad you got into the house. I am free monday and possibly part of Tuesday if you have some last minute stuff you need help with.

Clint
 
brokenparts said:
Mike do you have a link for that line lock you used... I couldnt seem to find it in the thread. Do you know if its against the rules to run one for the front and one for the back?
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I got my swagelok ball valve from a friend at work so I don't know where to pick one up online. My model number is SS-43S4-SC11. I think the numbers indicate something like SS is stainless, 43 is the actual model in the 40 series ball valves and the last part SC11 is an extra option in this case it was a cleaning option and in my opinion not needed if you search for the number online. I do have an extra one you're welcome to but it looks like you want to run two.

As far as it being against the rules, whose rule are you looking at? It's not a legal DOT emergency brake but it does satisfy TCLA tech rules for running their events.

As I found out the preload needs to be set just a smidgen tighter when dealing with our higher brake line pressures. This is also confirmed in the literature I've read from the swagelok site. The 40 series are only tested up to 1000psi and our brake line pressure is higher than that. The working max on the valves is 3000psi which is more than we'll see for line pressure in the brake system.
 
lol... you make me laugh man. Most people would have put a one line response but you my friend take the time to write up a 3 paragraph answer. Guess thats what makes your build so popular.

Anyhoooo, let me take the time to politely hi-jack your thread. :)

I was thinking about running two and possibly a cutting brake but I think that would be a plumbing nightmare and really leave lots of opportunity for leaks. My other idea is to use a electric style (like a B&M style) for the front and the swagelok ball valve for the rear. That way I could do killer burnouts and have a non-dot approved emergency brake in the rear. :hillbilly:
 
minor update

I've been DD and towing with Dora a lot lately. The cummins is feeling strong, looking like it's returning better mileage (even without the t.converter lock functioning), and smoking less. She's been darty on the hwy and I'm looking at geometry to see where it's coming from. Thinking my front and rear axles are not parallel and causing some of this. I also have a rim producing some vibs that's bugging me. My plan is to replace all the inserts with HDPE for better balance and I already bought another rim center to replace one that's giving me some vibs. I think it may have gotten too much heat when I welded it up. It was the last one so I probably hurried that one up and didn't wait long enough between cooling cycles. I've been focusing on setting up my shop so I can find my tools and have a place to start working again. I did find something yesterday:


When starting the truck yesterday and having to turn on the wipers since it's still raining here I noticed the wipers really slow. I also noticed the volt meter on the dash reading below 12V. Usually it's above 12V in the healthy 14V range. After giving it a couple blips of the throttle the needle returned to normal. When I started it after work to come home it did the same thing but didn't recover. The oil pressure gauge was reading higher than normal so I questioned if it was dash problem. When I got home the volt gauge finally recovered but I grabbed my volt meter to test charging while the engine was cooling down before shut off. I got charge to the main battery but not the aux. and the isolator was blinking the timer meaning the main had not been charging for more than 5 mins yet.

Other signs I've noticed is a quick chirp like a metal scrape or belt slip on start up.

I shut off the engine and thought I'd hand spin the alternator to see if the bearings were shot. While removing the belt I noticed small metal flakes/shavings in the dish part of the alternator pulley. The pulley spun freely without the belt but was wobbly so the bearings are definitely trashed with probably more internal damage. Dora's parked until I replace it.
 
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brokenparts said:
... That way I could do killer burnouts and have a non-dot approved emergency brake in the rear. :hillbilly:
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I guess you really want to step up to 44s! (trying to burn through your 42s)

I think having a mechanical actuated line lock like mine compared to an electric one is the better choice for a parking brake out in the rear. However, the nice thing about the electrics is that you don't have to route brake lines into the cab so that's a plus. Cutting brakes would be nice on our big rigs. While it does sound like a lot more connections if you route it well and use good fittings I don't see why it couldn't be reliable. I really dig the swagelok style fittings (compression fittings) and see many thousands of trouble free connections here at work. No flaring involved either.
 
boots4 said:
I guess you really want to step up to 44s! (trying to burn through your 42s)

I think having a mechanical actuated line lock like mine compared to an electric one is the better choice for a parking brake out in the rear. However, the nice thing about the electrics is that you don't have to route brake lines into the cab so that's a plus. Cutting brakes would be nice on our big rigs. While it does sound like a lot more connections if you route it well and use good fittings I don't see why it couldn't be reliable. I really dig the swagelok style fittings (compression fittings) and see many thousands of trouble free connections here at work. No flaring involved either.
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:hhmm:
 
brokenparts said:
Anyhoooo, let me take the time to politely hi-jack your thread. :)
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Can I .. ?

thanks .. I'm looking for a " good " line lock .. most of I0ve seen are recommended for use within minutes range .. mean one minute ..

there is any solenoid line lock that will hold safe ( you are putting your life in this device ) for let's say 20 minutes .?
 
Passed my Ham test and got my call sign: KF7LKM


Someday I need to get in an update. Done some fixing, some changing and even some wheeling. Mostly focused on getting ready for a trip down to Cali at the beginning of August.
 
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