Failing SMOG, Bizarre VF1/2 and OX1/2 readings (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 19, 2008
Threads
231
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Location
San Diego
Website
www.phalconoverland.com
It's SMOG time and old faithful Rathtar is failing. I went through this truckmare end of last year / beginning if this year but thought I had it running well. However, after heading to the smog shop it failed as follows:

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I went home in disbelief and despair, popped the hood, and started measuring junk. VF1 was 3.5V and VF2 was .060V. Both O2 sensors were flip flopping like you'd expect but at idle OX2 was slower than spec (8X in 10 sec). Bank 1 was enrichening the mixture while bank 2 was desperately and severely trying to lean it out. When I revved the engine, even a little over 1k RPM, the VF voltages would start to track to 2.25V which is on point probably why it passed at high idle. At idle, they would start to diverge. I found loose spark plugs so replace them with NGK Iridiums, new wires, cap and rotor. This helped the OX readings at idle a little. I wrapped my header wrap to the cat and that also helped but still, VF2 kept dropping often to 60-70mV. The plugs looked good with the loose ones looking like they got a little hot as one might expect.

I replaced the O2 sensors which were the stubby variety with NGK's that are the more well endowed variety similar to the Denso's (that I cannot find anywhere). Immediately, the VF voltages flipped. VF1 was 60mV and 2 was 2.25V. I went for a long drive and thereafter both were 2.24-5V which is on point. I drove my kid to school the next morning and upon return, same, both VF voltages were excellent. I went to smog it again today and failed even worse...

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At idle, VF1 is 1.04V and OX1 is at 0.93-4V with little movement. The computer is trimming bank 1 lean, though not extremely lean while the O2 sensor reflects no oxygen thus a high voltage which makes me believe the O2 sensor is correct based on the rich test readings. VF2, is sitting on 60mV while OX2 is running closed loop flip flopping like you'd expect. Here the computer is severely trimming back fuel which might explain the loads of residual O2.

The truck has exceptionally good power. Out here on I15 I can blast up hills in top gear. It idles fine. Of course I have no CEL.

So, maybe the two banks can only trim so far apart from one another and so it can't get Bank 2 in spec because Bank 1 is as far as it can go? Maybe I just have a new but bad O2 sensor? The shops exhaust gas analyzer is a good 3rd party observer here. I am struggling with this one. I can check fuel pressure - again - which passed before and after the new fuel pump, filter, and pressure regulator. Maybe I have a leaky in injector but then how did if pass high idle before but not now? If I had an AFM issue I'd expect that to impact both banks similarly as would any of the other global sensors vs. a large disparity bank to bank. Compression was damn perfect as of spring this year, hard to believe that tanked in only a few thousand miles...

Frank
 
I went out to take some measurements.

I unplugged the ECU connectors and checked the injectors to ground. All are 584 Ohms so I do not believe I have a short to ground in the harness (they are ground sinking controlled). I started it up, since the ECU had to relearn it was trimming VF to 70mV on both. As it warmed 2 started to go closed loop and sat again on 70mV. 1 took longer to flip flop, quite a bit longer, but it went closed loop, trimmed rich to 3.45V, then settled on 2.24V - 1.04V flipping (VF1). VF2 remained closed loop on 70mV. I played with the AFM to force it rich, both VF's went to 70mV. When I released it Bank 1 went back to 2.24-1.04V flipping. The AFM resistances are well within spec.

Frank
 
Probably not much help, but: swap sensors to see whether the pattern goes with one of those new sensors?
If not, the problem is most likely upstream. Presumably electrical - but: does this thing have a pair valve? Too much air in one bank?
 
It does have the PAIR valve. I haven't gotten into that yet. It looks like it just pumps into 2 pipes but maybe there is some way it could get biased.

Doing a little reading the PAIR system is only supposed to be active during cold starts and decels but if it were stuck open that would inject more air and so would push to the rich side.

Frank
 
Another data point which is... ominous. One of the O2 sensors that has only be in there for a week is corroded. I have the truck at a shop and they tested a new one in its place the rich condition appears to have receded. But why did the new one corrode so quickly... am dreading the HG...

Frank
 
Figured I'd give an update.

Good news, 10/16 my daughter Karleigh was born healthy as can be. However, with the arrival of kid #4 and smog due by 10/24 I had taken it to a shop due to my bandwidth whittled to near zero.

The shop has had it for over 3 weeks. They churned it for hours. They went through the harness, injectors, compression test (150 all 6), scoped it, couldn't find anything. The controller was trimming back fuel like crazy but running rich at idle. Yesterday they pulled the intake and re-scoped. They found intake valve damage on #4 and the head is not reusable. It's the kind of issue that didn't show up unless the truck was running and cylinder pressures were high enough. Given the costs of getting the head done and the 275k on the engine, I am having them just rebuild it completely. I have newly rebuilt diffs, front axle, and t-case so the engine can join them. When the trans finally goes I'll have a newish drivetrain through and through.

This turned out to be a hard one. It is probably what caused my truck-mare last year.

Frank
 
Keeping Rathtar ready to go for Karleigh!! What a great father.
 
Kinda have to. Losing Rathtar would be like losing a family pet to the kids. It must get fixed.
 

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