F#$*%&! BROKEN VALVE COVER BOLT!!!

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Jul 11, 2003
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94 fj -80 alright everyone. i succesfully managed to change out my vavle cover gasket last week without any problems. and as a rookie to major engine work. i was pretty happy it was all done. so, two days ago i notice fresh oil leaking from the backside of the engine. i determined that the ds, rear valve cover bolt must not be tight enough. so i went to retorque it and the bastard sheared off half way inside the block!!!!!! So, here is my question. those are 10mm bolts about 2 1/2 inches long. they dont seem to be hardened and i would like to know if i should replace them with hardened ones from another source.? if i can get it out. also, any thougts on how best to remove this sheared bolt? already got the liquid wrench in there and will go get some easy outs. but, do i need to pull the whole F@#%*!*! valve cover off again?!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


thanks ya'll victor
 
6 mm bolts actually. The wrench size is 10 mm.

Can you get a drill into place? You could try a left-handed bit.
 
thanks for the correction :) 6mm bolts. dan, i think may have to pull the hood to get back in there witha drill. it would be the hardest bolt to access, eh?
 
You want to use a torque wrench with these and torque them to 7 lbs (Is that right C-Dan?) I broke one as well thinking my bolts were loose. Had C-Dan send me a set of 10.
 
skeddy said:
94 fj -80 but, do i need to pull the whole F@#%*!*! valve cover off again?!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


thanks ya'll victor


I guess I would; if nothing else you might see a stub enough to grab and get outta there. Also, somethings wrong if you broke the bolt despite using the torque wrench - either the wrench is outta calibration, or the bolt was slightly stripped, or the bolt hole was slightly stripped (what's the right name for a bolt hole by the way???), or there is debris in there which is screwing up the works. Another thought is that if there is enough stub to see but not enough to grab, you might want to take an old allen wrench and just spot weld it long end to the stub then use the curved end and pliers to unscrew the bolt. As long as the bolt is steel (test with magnet) and as long as you just super fast spot weld it (dont get the head hot at all), it should work. Now you mentioned that it broke off halfway in the block ( head really right?) so if that is the case, none of the above methods I mentioned would work, but even in that case, it will be easier to get out with the valve cover removed. HTH.
 
If you pull the valve cover you'll probably find you can remove the bolt with your fingers. They don't need to be that tight. Snug will do.
 
thanks all for your help. after removing the cover and after a lot of stress. i was able to get a pair of needle nose pliers on the end and turn itn out. the gasket rupturered and therefore the leak. i guess i overtorqued it and blew the rubber seal. thanks again = vic
 

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