Extended BumpStops... (50 Viewers)

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Sorry didnt get a chance to clean all the mud from my last outing.

But here are the Timbrens installed in the rear:

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compared to OEM lol:
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Ahh i think I found it! Timbren ABSTORSEQ Rear Active Off-Road Bump Stops for 2007-2014 Toyota FJ Cruiser, 4Runner, Landcruiser - https://timbren.com/i-30497566-active-off-road-bump-stops-sku-abstorseq-rear-kit.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA3NX_BRDQARIsALA3fILpMeDMFJUFFctooDSnYQ_M179_Go6dYG74fLuf7oe784YUIef3ge4aAtsyEALw_wcB Looks much beefier than the Wheelers version - Wheeler's Superbump Spacers - https://wheelersoffroad.com/shopbyvehicle/wheeler-s-superbump-spacers.html
 
I found a trick to ease installation. I took the hex head cap screws and wrapped some double-sided tape around the threads just below and touching the bottom of the head. That allowed me to screw the cap screw into the bump stop so it would hold tight. Then I was able to spin on the bump stop with the screw into the mounting hole and run up the threads to hand tighten. After that, it only took a few turns with the enclosed Allen wrench.
you were able to use the enclosed allen wrench? why were there people cutting it up to use?
 
I found a trick to ease installation. I took the hex head cap screws and wrapped some double-sided tape around the threads just below and touching the bottom of the head. That allowed me to screw the cap screw into the bump stop so it would hold tight. Then I was able to spin on the bump stop with the screw into the mounting hole and run up the threads to hand tighten. After that, it only took a few turns with the enclosed Allen wrench.

I did something similar! I put a little bit superglue about the neck of the bolt and then inserted it into the bushing and let is bond for a few minutes. Made the job so much easier - just screw the whole thing like OEM bump stops and then torqued it up with the provided allen wrench.
 
Based on seeing what looks like the rear position would hit first With factory Bumps and the Wheeler’s stops being thicker it appears that Putting them in rear position might big hits might result in The weaker part of the lca’s taking more of that big hit energy
 
because most of the time we are rolling forward on the trail?

the front bumpstop will “contact” first and absorb most of the energy
 
This is an interesting discussion for sure. I will try to take some pics, but am pretty sure the rear engage way before the fronts (just as @nitteo said).
I am not an engineer so not really sure how to tell if early enaggagement is better or not, but I do see that Mr. T designed the rear ones to hit first, so it made sense to me that rears would be upgraded first too!
Secondly, Timbren also recommends replacing just the rear position when there are two sets on the LCA. So that's what I did.
 
Not that I Am an engineer but as I mentioned it looks like the rear hits first. However the total thickness is let’s say a hockey puck. The wheelers and timbrens are much thicker and albeit a different formula and compression characteristic stock likely don’t compress down to a hockey puck Thickness like stock (otherwise what would be the point of replacing right?). That said would the result of putting a thicker bumpstop in the position that connects first force the energy beyond the bumpSTOP compression to be absorbed by Suspension...in what many have said is a weaker area of the lca.

this is what others have posted combined with me trying to imagine the vehicle behavior on a big compression.
 
the timbrens front bumpstops instructions say to install in the forward bumpstop (of the front).

i believe it has been mentioned that having them installed in the rear bumpstop (of the front) interferes with the Torsion Bars from doing their part in the "force" absorption.
 
Ok - so it is one of the two things then:
a) Use the front location, so the bump stop only comes in play only in unusual compression, thereby protecting the rear position from bearing a larger share of force
b) Use the rear location, so the bump stop gets the first shot at absorbing the compression stroke of LCA before anything else even feels the stress

I guess the answer hinges on whether the rear portion of the arm is strong enough for this?
It is definitely the highest stressed portion of the LCA (evidence: TBs attach here essentially carrying the whole front end weight, and the OEM bump stop come in contact here before the fronts thus absorbing the whole force of the compressing front suspension!)
But I want to argue they are the strongest part of the LCA, that's why they are made to carry the most load. Also, the reports of them snapping at the point are largely from aftermarket parts, aren't they?

i believe it has been mentioned that having them installed in the rear bumpstop (of the front) prevents the Torsion Bars from doing their part in the "force" absorption.
I believe the aftermarket bump stops are designed to assist in the "force" absorption and not hinder it. Their intended use is quite different than the factory ones that only actually do anything then TBs are "overwhelmed"!
 
Here are the timbren instructions calling for rear bump stop replacement when there are two in the front:

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And this is from the Wheeler's own website:

"Please note: The front lower control arms on these vehicles have two bumpstop locations (forward and rear). Our Superbump Bumpstops mount in the rear location of the control arms. The OEM bumpstop should remain in the front location to assist with harder hits or bottom-outs."
 
awesome discussion though. i think i am now more confused (about the front bumpstops) lol.

all the amazon experiments i had for the fronts were fails. ( i ordered a whole bunch and tried to install some of them/ some were too big/small/soft)

my rear bumpstop timbrens have been awesome though. the price is kinda steep, but they work.
 

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