Exhaust manifold bolt extraction (1 Viewer)

[Honeycutt]

So, I am trying to get the exhaust and intake manifold to the point where I can put them back together with the correct bolts. However, as you can see, the old ones were cut off and unsure the easiest way to get them out. I didn't want to reinvent the wheel. I was going to cut, heat, then use a hammer and a punch and see if that worked. If anyone has a smarter easier way, I'd be all ears.

Cheers,

Additionally, I have the bolt hole threads stripped on 2 of the intake manifold holes I believe. I have no idea what the smartest thing to do is there. Has anyone else experienced something similiar? Got any tips or tricks? Let me know.

 

[Mopdog]

I would try a soak in some pb blaster or the like and an easy out before going all nuclear on it.

 

[bj70bc]

AcetoneE ATF kerosene mix, and soak
then heat and pressue

 

[bj70bc]

maybe weld a nut on the end of some of those

 

[ToyotaMatt]

So, I am trying to get the exhaust and intake manifold to the point where I can put them back together with the correct bolts. However, as you can see, the old ones were cut off and unsure the easiest way to get them out. I didn't want to reinvent the wheel. I was going to cut, heat, then use a hammer and a punch and see if that worked. If anyone has a smarter easier way, I'd be all ears.

Cheers,View attachment 3257519View attachment 3257520View attachment 3257521

Additionally, I have the bolt hole threads stripped on 2 of the intake manifold holes I believe. I have no idea what the smartest thing to do is there. Has anyone else experienced something similiar? Got any tips or tricks? Let me know.

View attachment 3257522

View attachment 3257523

i found this tech cvdeo when it first came out

and it's a good tutorial , i use the methods here in addition to a few others

 

[ToyotaMatt]

this Hagerty one is EXCELLENT too !

 

[Pitter Patter]

Been through this so I feel you. Be patient. A couple of things are necessary. Do you have a welder? Do you have good drill bits? Do you have a tap set?

Nearly every bolt and stud in my manifold broke. If they are proud at all then you can build up washers and a nut as necessary and weld it to the stud then back it out. It may take multiple tries so don’t get discouraged. I had one where my welded on bolts broke a ton of times then it finally worked.

If they are sunken then don’t bother with EZ OUTS. They are garbage and will break off inside of the bolt. Ask me how I know. And.. the EZ OUT is harder than the bolt so you can’t drill it. So do yourself a favor and just bypass those unless you want to invest in some fancy hollow cutting drill bits.

Bolts are relatively simple to drill and shockingly soft vs a bit. You need to be patient and precise. Punch the center of the broken stud. Use oil as a lubricant. Drill the center. Go slow, oil often, hard pressure, slow rotation. Keep it cool. Heat will break your drill bit. Then step up to a larger bit for right up to where the threat pitch of the manifold is tapped. I found the remainder will loosen and reverse out or you can tap it and be good. Again just take your time, be patient, hit me up if you need some tips. It will all work out beautifully if you just be patient and work at it.

 

[brian]

Skip all the snake oil soaking nonsense and jump right to heat.

 

[Pitter Patter]

Skip all the snake oil soaking nonsense and jump right to heat.

Agreed. Penetrating oils only help a little. Truly seized bolts won’t get any of that in there

 

[3_puppies]

the 2 bolts for the downpipe, look wrong
original would have been studs
it looks like there are nuts on the top
so either the threads are gone in the manifold
or
a PO just used any size that would get the job done.

my WAG is you will need to cut the nut off and try and drive the remaining part of the bolt out
or
cut the nut off, heat up manifold and try and twist the remaining part of the bolt out

 

[Honeycutt]

Been through this so I feel you. Be patient. A couple of things are necessary. Do you have a welder? Do you have good drill bits? Do you have a tap set?

Nearly every bolt and stud in my manifold broke. If they are proud at all then you can build up washers and a nut as necessary and weld it to the stud then back it out. It may take multiple tries so don’t get discouraged. I had one where my welded on bolts broke a ton of times then it finally worked.

If they are sunken then don’t bother with EZ OUTS. They are garbage and will break off inside of the bolt. Ask me how I know. And.. the EZ OUT is harder than the bolt so you can’t drill it. So do yourself a favor and just bypass those unless you want to invest in some fancy hollow cutting drill bits.

Bolts are relatively simple to drill and shockingly soft vs a bit. You need to be patient and precise. Punch the center of the broken stud. Use oil as a lubricant. Drill the center. Go slow, oil often, hard pressure, slow rotation. Keep it cool. Heat will break your drill bit. Then step up to a larger bit for right up to where the threat pitch of the manifold is tapped. I found the remainder will loosen and reverse out or you can tap it and be good. Again just take your time, be patient, hit me up if you need some tips. It will all work out beautifully if you just be patient and work at it.


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@Pitter Patter what size and thread pitch were the bolts that mate the exhaust and intake together? SOR is missing those bolts in their schematic.

 

[Steamer]

@Pitter Patter what size and thread pitch were the bolts that mate the exhaust and intake together? SOR is missing those bolts in their schematic.

On my 74 it's M10-1.25
Was 3Puppies right. Are those nuts on the end of those bolts. I'm guessing 5/16. If they are nuts, maybe an open end wrench to hold back and a pair of hefty vise grips would turn them out.
Pic of my 74. Ignore the wrong pipe & donut.

 

[Malleus]

Been through this so I feel you. Be patient. A couple of things are necessary. Do you have a welder? Do you have good drill bits? Do you have a tap set?

Nearly every bolt and stud in my manifold broke. If they are proud at all then you can build up washers and a nut as necessary and weld it to the stud then back it out. It may take multiple tries so don’t get discouraged. I had one where my welded on bolts broke a ton of times then it finally worked.

If they are sunken then don’t bother with EZ OUTS. They are garbage and will break off inside of the bolt. Ask me how I know. And.. the EZ OUT is harder than the bolt so you can’t drill it. So do yourself a favor and just bypass those unless you want to invest in some fancy hollow cutting drill bits.

Bolts are relatively simple to drill and shockingly soft vs a bit. You need to be patient and precise. Punch the center of the broken stud. Use oil as a lubricant. Drill the center. Go slow, oil often, hard pressure, slow rotation. Keep it cool. Heat will break your drill bit. Then step up to a larger bit for right up to where the threat pitch of the manifold is tapped. I found the remainder will loosen and reverse out or you can tap it and be good. Again just take your time, be patient, hit me up if you need some tips. It will all work out beautifully if you just be patient and work at it.


View attachment 3257548View attachment 3257549View attachment 3257550View attachment 3257547View attachment 3257551

Gospel!

 

[Pitter Patter]

@Pitter Patter what size and thread pitch were the bolts that mate the exhaust and intake together? SOR is missing those bolts in their schematic.

Not sure of the size and pitch but they are available through Toyota. Here is a copy of the correct schematic and part numbers. I ordered all this up last summer. I could even get the springs/rings and gaskets from Toyota. The bolts & studs were cheap but those springs/rings, gaskets and the heat insulator were crazy expensive.

 

[sogncab]

What Potter Patter said. Weld a nut to it.

I think the heat cycle is what really gets things free'd up.

Run a tap through the holes, and apply generous amounts of anti seize at reassembly.

 

[OhioFJ]

the 2 bolts for the downpipe, look wrong
original would have been studs
it looks like there are nuts on the top
so either the threads are gone in the manifold
or
a PO just used any size that would get the job done.

my WAG is you will need to cut the nut off and try and drive the remaining part of the bolt out
or
cut the nut off, heat up manifold and try and twist the remaining part of the bolt out

someone stripped the threads in my manifold downpipe and “fixed” it this way too with a sae bolt / nut from the bottom.

My plan is to use a time-sert and go back to the oem studs.

 

[iptman]

If you don't have a welder or torch, one of these induction heaters is the tits.

 

[Honeycutt]

Been through this so I feel you. Be patient. A couple of things are necessary. Do you have a welder? Do you have good drill bits? Do you have a tap set?

Nearly every bolt and stud in my manifold broke. If they are proud at all then you can build up washers and a nut as necessary and weld it to the stud then back it out. It may take multiple tries so don’t get discouraged. I had one where my welded on bolts broke a ton of times then it finally worked.

If they are sunken then don’t bother with EZ OUTS. They are garbage and will break off inside of the bolt. Ask me how I know. And.. the EZ OUT is harder than the bolt so you can’t drill it. So do yourself a favor and just bypass those unless you want to invest in some fancy hollow cutting drill bits.

Bolts are relatively simple to drill and shockingly soft vs a bit. You need to be patient and precise. Punch the center of the broken stud. Use oil as a lubricant. Drill the center. Go slow, oil often, hard pressure, slow rotation. Keep it cool. Heat will break your drill bit. Then step up to a larger bit for right up to where the threat pitch of the manifold is tapped. I found the remainder will loosen and reverse out or you can tap it and be good. Again just take your time, be patient, hit me up if you need some tips. It will all work out beautifully if you just be patient and work at it.


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@pitterpatter I recently looked at your manifold and realized I had no idea what the brass colored stuff attached to the outer side of the manifold is? Is that smog equipment?

 

[brian]

@pitterpatter I recently looked at your manifold and realized I had no idea what the brass colored stuff attached to the outer side of the manifold is? Is that smog equipment?

Pcv valve vacuum source on the little guy, erg return for the large end...so yes smog stuff.

 

[thorslc1977]

What @pitterpatter said except use left- handed or reverse drill bits and put drill in reverse NO EZ-OUTS. I have found that many times the heat and vibrations will loosen bolt and with drill in reverse it will spin it right out. This does not always work but it doesn't get in the way of the more aggressive methods if they are needed.