Exhaust leak, what is this part called? (1 Viewer)

[bobr]

Hi, on my FJ60, exhaust is leaking from the pipe detailed in photo. Can someone tell me what this is called? I looked for diagrams without joy. Also, should I repair weld it or replace it, and if I should replace it where can I find a new/used one Thank you for helping.

 

[Jesper]

Believe that would be your EGR tube. Can't see if it's cracked or broken somewhere, but there is a gasket at that flange where it comes from the exhaust though that may be shot. I would imagine someone who took their EGR off may have parts available - check the classified forum. I think SOR has some replacements, and if all else fails check ebay.

 

[3_puppies]

that is the EGR pipe, depends on where it is leaking, there is a gasket under the flange, I've also had the weld crack and leak there, that would be a clean up and weld.

 

[erse]

1984 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 4200CC, MANUAL, 4-SPEED EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION SYSTEM


I believe I have an Identical leak on my "brand new to me" 84. For me I think its the gasket, havent had a chance to replace it yet to know for sure, but the diagram helped although not all of the parts are readily available. Good luck

 

[Mr B]

Be careful taken those nuts off. be sure to soak them with penetrating oil. We eliminated ours with a block off plate.

 

[jawjatek]

I was told those nuts were NLA at the dealer recently. Just sayin'

 

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

Once again @Output Shaft to the rescue. I recommend all pay attention to this walking talking encyclopedia of cruiser knowledge

 

[Spike Strip]

Don't know if you can desmog or not, but if you can, JimC (FJ40Jim) offer a really nice block off plate for that J-tube.

And FWIW, you WILL break those studs when removing the pipe. Also, it's a giant PITA because you will have to losen the nut on the EGR cooler (not easy) to get the pipe flange to clear the studs (assuming you don't break them), or you'll have to bend/kink the pipe if you do not loosen the EGR cooler nut.

 

[gregnash]

^^^ Or deal with what I had to and have what looks like a PO that decided they didn't want to deal with some sort of hole in the exhaust so the dumped a bunch of weld on the pipe and messed with the EGR stuff only to partially break off one bolt. Still have a slight leak to this day because I have never gotten it to tighten properly and have not pulled the manifold to drill out the old bolt and put something else in.

 

[Spike Strip]

Looking more closely at the picture the OP posted, I think that *may* be the SOR stainless J-tube, and it appears there has been some manifold work.

If that is the case, someone probably used an aftermarket gasket for that J-tube, or even the SOR gasket and they are all s***. Mine blew in under 2K miles and I replaced with the OE Toyota gasket on the recommendation of Mark A of Marks Off Road (that reminds me, I should order a couple more) and it's been 5 years no further issues. Once you see the OE Toyota gasket, you'll know why it's recommended.

 

[erse]

Are the nuts that hold the cooler to the block the larger more centrally located ones rather than the ones on the outside edges? The splash shield does look like its smack in the way where you want to be

 

[Dynosoar]

If you could (dare) i would remove the studs completely and replace with a bolt. Use copious amounts of Antiseize on the bolts.

Dyno

 

[Spike Strip]

Are the nuts that hold the cooler to the block the larger more centrally located ones rather than the ones on the outside edges? The splash shield does look like its smack in the way where you want to be

The two central bolts need to be removed. The bolts on the edge hold the halves of the gas cooler together. The bolts go into the block and are most likely rusted like mo-fo. I would spray excessive amounts of penetrating fluid lube behind the cooler for a couple of days before you remove so to avoid breaking off in the block.

 

[Chris Cahill]

Yea, the EGR J-pipe / exhaust manifold connecting point is a very common leak area. I will second everything that has been said about those studs breaking. I have broken a couple over the years myself.

One tip, in case you need it. If you do break a stud despite soaking them, being careful, etc. you can try removing the rear exhaust manifold horn without removing the entire manifold. I recently did so on my son's truck and it was surprisingly easy. If your exhaust manifold gasket is in good shape, you can just remove the horn, replace the j-pipe studs and bolt the horn back in place.

 

[Jesper]

I got lucky when I removed mine. Spray the bolts with penetrant for a few days. Also I put the tip of a long punch on the head of the bolts and gave them each a couple sharp cracks with a hammer to break down the rust bonds, and then resoak with penetrant. Mine came out with barely a hitch, but I'm inclined to believe it was more beginners luck than anything.

 

[bobr]

thanks all for your help, turns out the egr tub flange was broken, i ordered a used one from cruiser.net in NH, thanks again, it's nice to have a tlc running quietly, i thought it may be another exhaust manifold crack but was happily wrong!

 

[perrobravo]

Since I bought my 60 it has had a nasty exhaust leak that I finally got around to tracking down. Following the advice here, it is now fixed! Many thanks for the tips and precautions given above. I'll second what @Bear Lake Cruiser said about @Output Shaft ...great advice every time! Awesome.

The gasket I used was part number: 25628-61060, thankfully available at my local dealer since I didn't realize I had previously bought the wrong gasket until I had everything torn apart.

A couple weeks ago I (carefully) tightened the bolts which improved the exhaust leak a bit. Looking at the remains of the original gasket, you can see why tightening the bolts alone didn't solve the leak.

To get the pipe off the studs, I had to loosen the EGR cooler from the block as advised above. Other than the tight space that part was thankfully easy. Ended up having to pull the bolts all the way out to get enough movement for the J-pipe to come free.

Loosening the EGR cooler

The original nuts on the J-pipe looked to be in good shape so I simply reused them...and tightened them by hand with care.

What a difference this fix made. The truck feels a lot more smooth and quiet...and now I can focus on all the other weird noises it makes!

 

[hank14]

If you still need the j-tube for emissions or for a stock look, or to give you something to do occasionally, I recommend the previously mentioned SOR stainless j-tube. The second owner of my FJ60 had his replaced by the dealer with an OEM pipe several times and it kept leaking. I installed the SOR one about 9 years ago and no problems since...except I did have to resign ten the nuts recently.

Probably also just jinxed myself!

 

[erse]

Sorry for the old thread resuscitation.

I just now got the j pipe separated to replace the gasket, my question is do I have the right part? The original on my truck is pretty much disintegrated. All the diagrams I see seem to show a gasket with a round opening. On the part I received (9 months ago) it is not round. Can anyone who has replaced this thing offer some insight. It seems the part is now listed as NLA just to make life complete

 

[Spike Strip]

Not, not the correct gasket, though that one might be made to fit, if you're in a bind. If the OE isn't available. SOR sells an "Asbestos" gasket, or something like that.

I've never tried it, but I've seen a VW exhaust gasket that's metal and would be great if it fit, but I've yet to measure the OE part


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