Exhaust/intake gasket question

[pv40]

As I'm gearing up and collecting parts for a head gasket a Toyota/Landcruiser mechanic recommended I use SOR graphite gasket. Because they are thicker to accommodate unevenness. But the guy said to use longer bolts. He swears by these gaskets. I'm just asking if anyone else has good things to say. I know most use only OEM wich is what I was planning to do until I heard about this. Thanks

 

[OSS]

Title says "Exhaust/intake gasket".
But your question is about a head gasket...although the manifold gasket does indeed seal against the head, it's normally not called a head gasket.

The best thing you can do to get a nice tight fitting manifold, is to have an experienced shop mill it flat, then use the Toyota manifold gasket with original sized oem bolts. Everything else is a band-aid for warped parts.

 

[pv40]

No it's about the exhaust manifold gasket. Wich needs to be replaced during a head gasket replacement. I'm going to use OEM head gasket. My question was concerning the exhaust gasket.

 

[pv40]

Sorry not clarified in op

 

[Seth S]

No it's about the exhaust manifold gasket. Wich needs to be replaced during a head gasket replacement. I'm going to use OEM head gasket. My question was concerning the exhaust gasket.

Using a thicker gasket sounds like a cheap workaround for fixing an actual problem. Better to have the intake and exhaust manifolds milled flat together to make sure the mating surface is flat, parallel, and clean. May have to clean up the head surface as well. Then use an OEM or other normal thickness gasket during assembly. Do it right once and be good for another 200k Miles.

 

[pv40]

That's what I'll do. When I bring the head to the machine shop I'll also bring intake and exhaust manifold and do it right. Thanks for the input.

 

[Spike Strip]

I think the mechanic was referring to the 'Remflex' gasket ... Some love 'em, some hate 'em. I've never used.

 

[pv40]

Yes he was referring to the remflex. I think I'm going to machine smooth and use OEM gasket. I'm no mechanic so I want to keep it as simple as possible. Lol

 

[Spike Strip]

Having the Int/Exh surfaced is the proper way to do it.

BE AWARE -- When you do get the Manifolds surfaced , you should also ask for 'spot-facing'. Spot Facing is then leveling the surface where the washer/bolt contacts. If you decide not to do that, or the machine shop can't, then you will possibly have to use cut, half-washers to 'even-up' the torque surface. If you don't there's the possibility you can crack the ear of the brittle alum intake by pulling it down to the level of the exh side.

Oh, and don't use RTV on that gasket like the pic.

 

[pv40]

Having the Int/Exh surfaced is the proper way to do it.

BE AWARE -- When you do get the Manifolds surfaced , you should also ask for 'spot-facing'. Spot Facing is then leveling the surface where the washer/bolt contacts. If you decide not to do that, or the machine shop can't, then you will possibly have to use cut, half-washers to 'even-up' the torque surface. If you don't there's the possibility you can crack the ear of the brittle alum intake by pulling it down to the level of the exh side.

Oh, and don't use RTV on that gasket like the pic.

So " spot facing " is basically counter sinking evenly to make sure the thickness on both halves are the exact same thickness so your not flexing one side or having a gap under bolt head on the other. I'm I understanding that correctly. Makes a ton of sense. That's for the tip.

 

[Spike Strip]

Yup. Exactly. Wish I could have been that concise.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Its been my experience that when u Use SOR.COM's Stainless Steel HeaT Riser Block off

plate , that u do loose 2-3 critical threads / Turns of Solid Bite on the 3 Center Manifold to

Manifold " Sandwich " bolts 2 from underneath , 3 on top .



This , combined with the Female Threads in the Intake are Not Usually in the Best condition

the first few turns for some Age & Time reason ?



This is where i have found Longer Bolts are usually needed or necessary




But , Not using there Heat Riser Block off plate is Not really a option in the Real world any more Due to the Age & time factor of the Bi-metalic

spring breaking , & the Heat Riser Shaft Seizing in the Open or Cold Position where it Contacts the Chromium pressed in Bushings in the

exhaust manifold , Hence this Super heats the Bottom of the Intake and causes a Crack and Subsequent Vacuum Leak



This is also a Focus Point where i Do Believe in and Always Use the Rem-Flex Graphite Gasket , Because its NOT a Machinable , or at least the

Top / Vertical Gasket Mating Surface on the Exhaust Manifold , the surface is Typically Pitted form age & Time


I take it to the Extreme Level a bit maybe , ...................

By removing the Heat Riser & Shaft All Together , Weld in 2 stubby bolts , and eliminate the potential problematic problem altogether


Im a Purist when it comes to the Exhaust Manifold VS Headers Topic , i Roll with that Crowd

 

[pv40]

So with that said if I understand correctly I should definitely use remflex and longer bolts between the intake and exhaust vertical surface. And not necessarily against the head.

 

[pv40]

Good looking motor by the way!! Maybe you should send it my way lol

 

[Seth S]

Good looking motor by the way!! Maybe you should send it my way lol

I stumbled across this photo some time ago and it has been inspiration ever since....I have also never determined who/what/where the photo originated from.

 

[g-man]

sorry but isn't it a horizontal surface? ...the area below the carb where the two manifolds mate? I think the area where the manifolds mate to the head is vertical. What do I know. Maybe I'm just being anal. Good info tho on the use of longer bolts w/the block of plate and the thingy about spot facing. Damn I have to go look at my intake now and make sure all is well.

 

[Spike Strip]

sorry but isn't it a horizontal surface? ...the area below the carb where the two manifolds mate? I think the area where the manifolds mate to the head is vertical. What do I know. Good info tho on the use of longer bolts w/the block of plate and the thingy about spot facing.

Actually the surface @RAGINGMATT mentions is not exactly horizontal, there's a slight 'tilt' to it. Mine was pretty messed up - That foil gasket was welded to the iron. The machinist recommend I take to another machinist who could do that kind of work -- That machinist showed me there was about a 7 degree tilt. Why the tilt? Dunno.

 

[Spike Strip]

 

[pv40]

I stumbled across this photo some time ago and it has been inspiration ever since....I have also never determined who/what/where the photo originated from.

Mine will never look that clean I live calif#%*kia smogged

 

[Seth S]

Mine will never look that clean I live calif#%*kia smogged

maybe with properly tuned efi and a new cat it could pass Cali requirements..but I don't know if California allows for non original equipment to be swapped in. I live in Vermont which up until this year they didn't really do anything. Now basically your check engine light cannot be on