Exhaust estimate in Colorado

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Joined
Feb 26, 2023
Threads
5
Messages
22
Location
Colorado
My 80, with 300k miles, is running quite smoothly other than not passing emissions here in the front range of Colorado. It also clearly has exhaust leaks and smells pretty foul while running. It smells as though it’s running rich. Various threads lead me to suspect O2 sensor and cats. I’ve gone through and done all the main things, ignition system, EGR, various vacuum hoses etc. Still fails emissions.

I took it to an exhaust shop here in the front range known for quality work, and got an estimate, but before I commit I would love someone to provide me with a gut check. The guy says the cats are dead, and the sensors are “responding slow.” To me, this seems reasonable for the work, but the individual parts seem high in the price range. I’m curious what others have think/experiences.

Goals for the truck: gradually restoring it. Original engine. No rust, straight body. Seems to me worth it to keep it running nice but I don’t want to overpay for stuff either. Doing all of the work myself but exhaust is out of my skill set.

IMG_0856.webp
 
The entire 1FZ exhaust system from the manifolds back is available new from Toyota still, less cost then that and you could bolt it right on yourself.
If you just did the cats it’s substantially less but most original 80’s are due for mufflers/resonators as well by now.
 
The entire 1FZ exhaust system from the manifolds back is available new from Toyota still, less cost then that and you could bolt it right on yourself.
If you just did the cats it’s substantially less but most original 80’s are due for mufflers/resonators as well by now.
Interesting, I hadn’t even thought of ordering the whole thing new, figuring it would be cost-prohibitive. Installing myself is always preferred.
One site I pulled up which shows the whole exhaust system is this one which shows $3000 for the Y-pipe+Cat 1+Cat 2.

The part numbers from this diagram:
Screenshot 2026-02-05 at 8.00.02 PM.webp
#1 Manifold 1: 17141-66020
#2 Manifold 2: 17142-66010
#3 Gasket 1: 17173-66020
#4 Gasket 2: 17198-66010
#7 Y Pipe + Cat 1: 17401-66090
#8 Cat 2: 18450-66120
#9 Muffler: 17403-66041
#10 Tail Pipe + Resonator: 17405-66010

The big dollar ones are #7 and #8. Lowest I'm seeing these for is ~$1750 and ~$750 respectively before taxes/fees/shipping. Granted, these are brand new Toyota parts, so not directly comparable to what the shop is offering, but the price range is not insanely off as far as I can tell. I am new to exhaust however so I'm open to any and all suggestions!
 
You didn’t mention year model or any codes.
Apologies - it's a 1997 Toyota Land Cruiser. No codes. Most recent emissions looked like this, so not terribly off from state minimums but a ways off from what the numbers "should" be for this model.
Screenshot 2026-02-05 at 8.05.12 PM.webp
 
You could put these two together? Maybe add a cat? I’m getting by with one cat here on the front range on my 1997




 
Have you considered contacting your local Land Cruiser shop to see if you could order the OEM exhaust parts through them? Many good options in the area.
 
Have you considered contacting your local Land Cruiser shop to see if you could order the OEM exhaust parts through them? Many good options in the area.
Yes I can definitely give them a call. There are a couple Toyota dealers around here whose parts desks I've used, and Cruisers & Company is like right next to me...
 
Yes I can definitely give them a call. There are a couple Toyota dealers around here whose parts desks I've used, and Cruisers & Company is like right next to me...
Support your local LC shop.
 
My 80, with 300k miles, is running quite smoothly other than not passing emissions here in the front range of Colorado. It also clearly has exhaust leaks and smells pretty foul while running. It smells as though it’s running rich. Various threads lead me to suspect O2 sensor and cats. I’ve gone through and done all the main things, ignition system, EGR, various vacuum hoses etc. Still fails emissions.

I took it to an exhaust shop here in the front range known for quality work, and got an estimate, but before I commit I would love someone to provide me with a gut check. The guy says the cats are dead, and the sensors are “responding slow.” To me, this seems reasonable for the work, but the individual parts seem high in the price range. I’m curious what others have think/experiences.

Goals for the truck: gradually restoring it. Original engine. No rust, straight body. Seems to me worth it to keep it running nice but I don’t want to overpay for stuff either. Doing all of the work myself but exhaust is out of my
Apologies - it's a 1997 Toyota Land Cruiser. No codes. Most recent emissions looked like this, so not terribly off from state minimums but a ways off from what the numbers "should" be for this model.
View attachment 4081264
you bareky
 
I take all of my vehicles here, turbo back for my diesel 80 was 900 and some change, (no cats)

My old tacoma also needed cats, I just took them the universal magnaflow cats and they welded them in. It then passed emissions.

A A Performance Muffler & Brakes
I found AA on this forum! That’s actually where this quote is from. Maybe I should just supply them my own parts, or ask for a fairer deal than their 2x markup on the ones offered.
 
I found AA on this forum! That’s actually where this quote is from. Maybe I should just supply them my own parts, or ask for a fairer deal than their 2x markup on the ones offered.
Wow! I guess I never knew their mark up was that high. But I always supply my own parts.
 
That price is crazy. If you just want to pass smog, I would probably buy some magnaflow cats, they are around $200 each, and have them welded in place of the OEM ones. Should give readings under the minimum acceptable threshold.

Option number two is buying an OEM exhaust. Somebody mentioned that it's available so that's a nice surprise.

Option number 3 is a nostalgic story. Around 20 years ago my exhaust in my 80 seres was all rust. I lived in a place with salt being spilled on streets so I wanted a stainless steel exhaust really bad. I was quoted around $1500 which was a lot 20 years ago. I had no idea about welding, but a TIG welder was around $500. I told the family to leave me alone for two weeks and I bought a welder and studied all possible websites and videos about TIG welding. I bought some stainless tubing and the exhaust is working perfectly till this day. The biggest takeaway was that I learned TIG welding and actually started a fabrication business: I welded aluminum, titanium, steel, I welded bike frames, bumpers, seat adapters, roof racks etc. I made 2 more complete exhausts for customers, for $1000 each. A bief moment of being stubborn accidentally opened a new world of possibilities I didn't know existed at that time. Maybe it's time for you to learn a new skill?
 
I’ve ordered cats online and they wouldn’t sell/ship them to Colorado unless they were CARB certified, costing hundreds more. Ended up mailing them to my daughter in OR then shipped them to me . I don’t believe there is any difference between the certified and non certified cats for the same vehicle.
 
From what Scott at AA has told me, his cat converters are higher quality and will last longer than the magnaflow cats. Magnaflow CARB cats are $400-$500 apiece, so yes $2000 is double that, but you’re presumably paying for that higher quality along with the markup.

The quote also has what appears to be new O2 sensors, which wouldn’t normally be part of an exhaust quote.

So $2568 of that bill are 4 bought out parts.

$786 for misc parts and labor doesn’t seem unreasonable.

I blame CA emissions coming to Colorado.
 
I’ve ordered cats online and they wouldn’t sell/ship them to Colorado unless they were CARB certified, costing hundreds more. Ended up mailing them to my daughter in OR then shipped them to me . I don’t believe there is any difference between the certified and non certified cats for the same vehicle.
If you watch data on a scan tool there is a difference. The CARB cats are much cleaner. Snap on zuses will give you a score after it runs the drive cycle test. last califonia car that came though with a brand new federal magnaflow cat at another shop getting a 13, needs to be 10 or less to pass on this car, swapped it out with a CARB version and showed a 0.2 much cleaner.
 
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