Builds Evolution of a Land Cruiser: My 80's build thread

[VCCruzr]

CLUSTER LEDs

Today I also installed a new set of cluster LEDs I purchased from member 'lilevo'. All 4 of the main bulbs for $15 shipped. I got the white color. Very nice improvement over the sad, dim little OEM halogen bulbs with plastic green covers. The light is nice and crisp.

Did you take any photos to document how you did this? It looks great and is something I'd like to do but I have never opened the DS of the dash.

 

[Geert]

Head gasket, that's not good news...
I assume you have the 4.5 petrol engine?
Is this someting typical for the petrol engines, or also common problem with the 4.2 diesels?

 

[jcardona1]

Nice, now your looking like an LS400. Very clean indeed.

Thanks! Kinda sucks that I can't drive it to appreciate the new LEDs. I had to sit in the garage with the lights off lol

Did you take any photos to document how you did this? It looks great and is something I'd like to do but I have never opened the DS of the dash.

No sorry I didn't. I didn't think much of it since I've torn that area open several times. It's super easy, should take about 15 minutes. Here's what you need to do:

- Remove the lower dash panel, a few screws hold this in place.

- Next remove the middle trim piece around the ignition switch, locker switch, etc. There's no screws here, the entire piece just pops out. I didn't disconnect anything, just swiveled it over the side vertically.

- Remove the 2 screws on top of the cluster, then pop out the entire trim section. The two AC vents will come out with the entire piece.

- Remove the 4 screws holding the cluster in and pop it out. There's several plugs on the back, I didn't even remove them. I just reached behind and changed the bulbs with everything plugged in, that way I could tell right away if one of the LEDs was a dud.

And that's it!

Head gasket, that's not good news...
I assume you have the 4.5 petrol engine?
Is this someting typical for the petrol engines, or also common problem with the 4.2 diesels?

Yes that's correct. 4.5L petrol IFZ-FE. From what I've read, it seems like head gasket failures are more common on the 1FZ-FE vs the 3FE...

 

[spencertron]

awesome thread man, i'd go with the middle of those liner samples.

 

[jcardona1]

^ Thanks! I think I like that one too

 

[jcardona1]

HEAD GASKET PARTS LIST

Spent a few hours combing through the FSM and viewing Doug's DVD. I came up with a parts list of all the parts I'll need, and some other parts I want to change while in there.

Here's the spreadsheet I put together. The amounts highlighted in GREEN are the various seals and gaskets included in the Engine Valve Grind Gasket Kit for $236. You can see you save A LOT by buying the kit vs the parts individually. The remaining parts are other maintenance items I'll do while I have everything removed (water pump, belts, pulleys, etc).

Grand total in parts is $528.84. I figure another $400~500 at the machine shop to get the head serviced.

If I left anything off or have any suggestions/recommendations, let me know. I already replaced a lot of parts when I first bought the truck...

Here's a parts diagram showing the Valve Grind gasket kit. It comes with almost everything you'll need! (Upper box, # 04112):

 

[jeremymeehan]

Nice list preparing for the head gasket job! I just finished mine and things that I did additionally were replacing the spark plugs, fuel filter, thermostat, and having the intake manifold boiled out top and bottom at my machine shop while they were off. Did the PHH too.

I also opted to use new head bolts and have all of the studs replaced on the head so that the exhaust and intake manifolds fit tightly when I put them back on.

Replaced my radiator – and I wish that I had done the blue hub fan clutch mod while I was in there. I think I finished the project for just over $1200 in parts and machine shop fees.

Smart planning man!

 

[jcardona1]

Nice list preparing for the head gasket job! I just finished mine and things that I did additionally were replacing the spark plugs, fuel filter, thermostat, and having the intake manifold boiled out top and bottom at my machine shop while they were off. Did the PHH too.

I also opted to use new head bolts and have all of the studs replaced on the head so that the exhaust and intake manifolds fit tightly when I put them back on.

Replaced my radiator – and I wish that I had done the blue hub fan clutch mod while I was in there. I think I finished the project for just over $1200 in parts and machine shop fees.

Smart planning man!

Hey - thanks! I did most of that stuff when I first bought the truck, so that should save me some work and money this time around. And the PHH was done by the PO.

Intake manifold - how the heck did you get the whole thing out? In Doug's DVD it looks like the main engine harness runs through it. Seems like a nightmare trying to chase down all those plugs to disconnect them. Was it difficult to get the whole thing out?

I've been doing a lot of reading on the head bolts lately. Buying new ones, reusing the old ones, or going as far as buying new ARP studs. I think my head is going to explode (no pun intended ). Not sure what to do here. The OEM bolts are freaking expensive. $13.31 each x 14 bolts = $186 for something that most argue you don't even need to replace, so I have no idea what to do. I'm not ordering anything until everything is torn apart so I know exactly what I need to order.

Torquing - did you do the two 90º sweeps like it says in the FSM or did you go a little tighter?

I added new fluid in my fan clutch also and it's been running great so far. Truck stays in the low 180s no matter how long I drive or how high of a hill I climb.

Thanks for the info

 

[SierraMtns]

You going to post up detailed steps when you do the HG? We can always learn from teach other. Thanks

 

[jcardona1]

I'll do my best! It won't be to the level of detail that the FSM is, but I'll try to take pictures of the main areas after each day of progress. And I'll include notes on 'things I learned and things not to do'

 

[jcardona1]

HEAD GASKET PARTS LIST

Spent a few hours combing through the FSM and viewing Doug's DVD. I came up with a parts list of all the parts I'll need, and some other parts I want to change while in there.

Here's the spreadsheet I put together. The amounts highlighted in GREEN are the various seals and gaskets included in the Engine Valve Grind Gasket Kit for $236. You can see you save A LOT by buying the kit vs the parts individually. The remaining parts are other maintenance items I'll do while I have everything removed (water pump, belts, pulleys, etc).

Grand total in parts is $528.84. I figure another $400~500 at the machine shop to get the head serviced.

If I left anything off or have any suggestions/recommendations, let me know. I already replaced a lot of parts when I first bought the truck...

Added a few parts to the list. I think I came down with a serious case of W.I.I.T. disease (While I'm in there)

Power steering hose has been leaking at the banjo nut on the high pressure feed line, so no better time than now to change the bolt and gaskets. I hope that fixes it, because that's a $200 hose

- power steering hose union bolt, 44401-16027, $8.50
- power steering hose gasket, 44430-161683, $2.09 x 2
- radiator cap, 16401-71010, $10.59

 

[VCCruzr]

No sorry I didn't. I didn't think much of it since I've torn that area open several times. It's super easy, should take about 15 minutes. Here's what you need to do:

- Remove the lower dash panel, a few screws hold this in place.

- Next remove the middle trim piece around the ignition switch, locker switch, etc. There's no screws here, the entire piece just pops out. I didn't disconnect anything, just swiveled it over the side vertically.

- Remove the 2 screws on top of the cluster, then pop out the entire trim section. The two AC vents will come out with the entire piece.

- Remove the 4 screws holding the cluster in and pop it out. There's several plugs on the back, I didn't even remove them. I just reached behind and changed the bulbs with everything plugged in, that way I could tell right away if one of the LEDs was a dud.

And that's it!

Thanks Jose! I knew it had to be easy, I have just never had a reason to get in there....until now , those LEDs make a big difference and look great!

Derrick

 

[Skegger]

Seeing is believing... nice choices on the upgrades. (Now my flares are on the ejection list.)

Your truck looks great, and seems to suit your off-road needs well. Congratulations.

BTW Burgundy is awesomer

 

[jcardona1]

HEAD GASKET - DAY 1

Well, started the tear-down today. Like I said, taking it slow so I don't end up hating my life and/or the truck!

First order of business, some ******* light because my garage is too dark. I don't have a nice big shop with a lift and all the goodies. Just a regular guy with a regular garage and regular hand tools! Boy do these halogens put out some serious heat. I think I'll end up with a tan by the time I'm done.

Also, good idea to get a tarp underneath as you'll be dripping all kinds of stuff. Drained the radiator, removed the battery/battery box and the air cleaner. Removing the air cleaner gives you plenty of room to sit/stand on the passenger fender well. No pics, use your imagination

Next up, remove the hood. Word of advise, DON'T do this alone like I did. Or should I say, don't do this alone if your care about your paint. I don't have any paint left, so.....

Bonus points for stopping to take pictures...

Hood off, MOAR ROOM

Removing the throttle cables (accelerator, cruise control and transmission kick-down). Use tape on one of the nuts so you can keep track of its position. Otherwise they'll move around and you'll have to play the fun game of adjusting all your cables. Ask me how I know, I went through this crap last time. Not fun.

Mark all your vacuum hoses. The ones on the throttle body are marked with letters that go to the EGR modulator.

Careful with the lower throttle body bolts. Use a magnet tool, otherwise they'll fall down into the pits of doom. Not really, but it sucks dropping parts to the ground when you're on top of the engine.

Throttle body off. Intake manifold still fairly clean since I cleaned it when I first bought the truck (spray cleaner and a brush)

Pipe wrench to remove the nut from the EGR valve. Came off easily since I had also removed this a few months ago. It was a bitch to get off last time. The studs that hold the valve need to come off too. Those need a Torx socket which I don't have (ordered, on the way). You can also get them off with a 5mm socket.

EGR valve off. Protective wrap around the engine harness is toast, literally. I'll need to re-wrap this. Anybody think it'd be worthwhile or a good idea to wrap the EGR pipe or insulate it with something?

Been soaking these devil heathens in PB Blaster for the past two days. What do you guys think? Will they come off? I'll be ordering new studs and new nuts. I'm hoping they'll come out without issue. I'd hate to break one inside the block. That would totally suck.

My parts table so far I think I may tackle that upper intake manifold tomorrow. That's another miserable part, need to lay under the truck with 30" of extensions!

 

[SierraMtns]

Man your doing a great job....Keep up the good work and enjoy knowing that it is done right and your saving money for all your goodies.

 

[jcardona1]

Man your doing a great job....Keep up the good work and enjoy knowing that it is done right and your saving money for all your goodies.

Thanks man! Yeah there's no way I could afford to pay a shop for all the labor!

 

[jcardona1]

HEAD GASKET - DAY 2

Well, I got a lot more done today than I thought I would! I started off by checking the exhaust manifold nuts to see how hard they would be. To my surprise they came off with hardly any effort, almost scary how easy they came off! Somebody removed them before? Is PB Blaster that good? Even the bolts on the y-pipe came off easily.

Anyhow, this is what I used to loosen up the 4 nuts at the y-pipe. I did this from underneath the truck using a 25" breaker bar and a few extensions. These made easy work of those nuts.

The last 2 nuts/studs on the manifold are hard to reach no matter what you do. The last port has 3 nuts instead of 2 like the other due to the port that goes to the EGR pipe. There's 2 towards the back, one hidden on the bottom. I ended up removing the engine hoist hook to have better access (red arrows).

The last 2 nuts. You can see I was starting to strip them until I removed the engine hook.

The breaker bar BARELY fit against the fire wall to reach that last nut.

Both manifolds out! Even the studs came out very easily, most came out with the nut. The remaining studs I removed with an E8 torx socket. With the manifolds out you can appreciate the massive size of this tractor engine

Exhaust ports 4~6. They look good, no evidence of 'steam cleaning' from a leaking head gasket.

Closeup of #5

And the infamous #6. Here's something interesting. Looks like coolant seeping out of the head gasket. Could it be????

With the exhaust manifold out I got to work on the intake manifold, upper half. This is a pain in the ass to remove. There's 3 bolts that you will NOT be able to reach from the engine bay. You need to remove them from underneath, using about 30" of extensions. I did this before already so I knew what to expect. It all came out quite easily. Now's your chance to fix P0401 once and for all!

Upper intake manifold out! The nuts I removed from underneath the truck are the last 3, closest to the firewall.

And the junk removed so far. You can see now why having a spare table is so useful.

Next step I think will be the distributor/plugs/wires, belts and alternator. Stay tuned

 

[TYM4FUN]

It's nice having rust free trucks.... Your making good progress. Thanks for all the pics and tips!

 

[jcardona1]

It's nice having rust free trucks.... Your making good progress. Thanks for all the pics and tips!

No problem! I figure they'll help somebody down the road. It can seem like a daunting task to tear into this engine. And hi-res pics are always nice. Too many blurry cam cell phone shots

Rust-free...tell me about it! I was just reading the recent thread about the $800 exhaust install because of broken studs. I'm glad we're snow and salt free here on the west coast

 

[SierraMtns]

Whats your plans with the head? You find a good machine shop in Sac?