Engine trouble help. pulled head today

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I think the FJ60 2F swap should be a piece of cake compared to a Chevy swap...

It depends on how you want to count it. The Toyota 3 speed will work with the early cast iron GM bellhousing that also has mounting pads to eliminate the need for a cross member. You could also locate the SBC to eliminate the need for custom drive shafts. The split transfer case will need new drive shafts and a parking brake and these are not cheap. You want to go into this knowing everything it takes and what all the options are.

I like 2Fs and I have no problem with this choice, but it is not a drop in swap.
 
It depends on how you want to count it. The Toyota 3 speed will work with the early cast iron GM bellhousing that also has mounting pads to eliminate the need for a cross member. You could also locate the SBC to eliminate the need for custom drive shafts. The split transfer case will need new drive shafts and a parking brake and these are not cheap. You want to go into this knowing everything it takes and what all the options are.

I like 2Fs and I have no problem with this choice, but it is not a drop in swap.

Very True Pin Head it not a drop in swap. But for what I wanted to accomplish in the end, it made the most sense. Pin Head you know your stuff and I appreciate your comments.

Let me ask you all this
if I use the 2f and the 4 speed out of the 84 FJ60 will my 3speed TC bolt right up to it and give me the correct drive shaft length?
 
No, it won't, but custom drive shafts will be about $500-$600 for the pair.


Not my experience.... I think you should be able to get shafts made at a local shop for $150-200 each.

Pretty much any swap you do is going to require new driveshafts. If you are luck and/or clever you might be able to source shafts that are longer than you need and get them shortened - at a price considerably less than whole new ones.
 
Look like AA makes an adapter to go from my 10 spline 3sp TC to the 84 16 spline 4 speed trans

http://www.advanceadapters.com/prod...-to-land-cruiser-10-spline-tcase-adapter-kit/

looks like its only about a inch thick. And I moved my rear axle back one inch already by drilling my spring perch.
this might be a way to go no?

That might save you dealing with the parking brake issue. I put an H55f and split case behind the 2F in my 40 and I sourced a LATE FJ40 rear axle with integrated parking brake (like the 60 rear axles). I later sourced a 70 series rear axle, also with the parking brake, that I will be using in my FJ45LV. Those cost me in the neighborhood of $250 each (WITH a 4.11 diff in each)

Mark
 
Look like AA makes an adapter to go from my 10 spline 3sp TC to the 84 16 spline 4 speed trans

http://www.advanceadapters.com/prod...-to-land-cruiser-10-spline-tcase-adapter-kit/

That kit mates the earlier (75-7/80) 4 speed transmissions to the 3 speed t-case.

The FJ60/62 H42 transmission (8/80+ ) is a 19 spline output.

One option would be to see if you can find the Diff flanges from some 75-78 diffs (10 spline) and swap those over to your differentials and then have the FJ60 driveshafts cut down to the appropriate length.
 
That kit mates the earlier (75-7/80) 4 speed transmissions to the 3 speed t-case. The FJ60/62 H42 transmission (8/80+ ) is a 19 spline output. One option would be to see if you can find the Diff flanges from some 75-78 diffs (10 spline) and swap those over to your differentials and then have the FJ60 driveshafts cut down to the appropriate length.

Awwww ok. Hey come to think of it I have a diff flange off the 76 Fj40 front end I swapped in to my cruiser last month!
 
No, you guys aren't understanding where the 10/16/19 spline is located. It is on the output of the transmission, that spears the main drive gear in the transfer case. Has nothing to do w/ the splines on the diff or t-case output flanges.

Dad, you need to trade the FJ60 bellhousing, trans & t-fer for a 74-80 FJ40/55 BH, 4spd & transfer. Then the shifter will look right, t-case P-brake will be right, BH will drop onto stock frame mounts...

Also be aware the engine mount ears on the FJ60 block are different than your FJ40. Use the FJ40 mount ears, drilling the M10 bolt holes to M12. Also check the thickness of the mounts to see if the bolts into the block will be the correct length. IIRC, the early mounts are thinner, so the FJ60 bolts will bottom out in the threaded holes.
 
No, you guys aren't understanding where the 10/16/19 spline is located. It is on the output of the transmission, that spears the main drive gear in the transfer case. Has nothing to do w/ the splines on the diff or t-case output flanges. Dad, you need to trade the FJ60 bellhousing, trans & t-fer for a 74-80 FJ40/55 BH, 4spd & transfer. Then the shifter will look right, t-case P-brake will be right, BH will drop onto stock frame mounts... Also be aware the engine mount ears on the FJ60 block are different than your FJ40. Use the FJ40 mount ears, drilling the M10 bolt holes to M12. Also check the thickness of the mounts to see if the bolts into the block will be the correct length. IIRC, the early mounts are thinner, so the FJ60 bolts will bottom out in the threaded holes.

Thanks for the info Jim

My game plan (as of right now) is to keep the FJ60 engine, trans and tc and either adapt the 60 crossmember to my 40 or just make a new one.

Good info on the engine mounts. I did not know that!

The heart transplant operating room
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Cool.

Swap on an FJ40 top cover/shifter assembly to get the stick coming through the floor in a more forward location, not underneath the bench seat.

An emergency/park brake of some sort is still a good idea (as well as a legal requirement).

A low cost option for the d-shafts is to slip together a pair of hybrid shafts. The slip yoke spline is the same on the 69 & 84 shafts. Pull them all apart at the slips. for the rear, use the rear FJ60 tube and a 69 stub. For the front, use the rear 69 tube and the FJ60 rear stub. Both d-shafts now have one big end for FJ60 t-case, and one small flage for 69 axle. Both d-shafts are too long, so have d-shaft shop cut them down & rebalance. Should cost $100-150 to have the pair done.
And there will be one 84 front shaft leftover w/ a DC CV joint, which can be sold for a few dollars.
 
Cool.

Swap on an FJ40 top cover/shifter assembly to get the stick coming through the floor in a more forward location, not underneath the bench seat.

An emergency/park brake of some sort is still a good idea (as well as a legal requirement).

A low cost option for the d-shafts is to slip together a pair of hybrid shafts. The slip yoke spline is the same on the 69 & 84 shafts. Pull them all apart at the slips. for the rear, use the rear FJ60 tube and a 69 stub. For the front, use the rear 69 tube and the FJ60 rear stub. Both d-shafts now have one big end for FJ60 t-case, and one small flage for 69 axle. Both d-shafts are too long, so have d-shaft shop cut them down & rebalance. Should cost $100-150 to have the pair done.
And there will be one 84 front shaft leftover w/ a DC CV joint, which can be sold for a few dollars.

My 65 has the 3 on the tree right now so i will have to figure out the shifter location, cut a hole in the trans hump cover and if the shifter is to far back ? I will figure something out. Make my own custom bent shifter possibly, or find a 40 top cover like you suggested. That's exactly what I was thinking on the drive shafts too. make a mix and match drive shaft and have a drive shaft shop cut it all to the right size and balance it for me. should not be too much.
 

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