Engine swap just delayed. Rebuild 1F or find 2F?

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Mar 29, 2009
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Location
Durango, CO
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www.source3.com
If anyone has been following my post on my planned engine swap, the project was delayed. In summary:
I told my wife that I found a donor truck and was moving forward. Well...she reminded me that I promised her that I would build a woodworking shop for her before working on the FJ40. . Ahh shoot...I did say this. The swap has just been delayed a year or so.
Please recall that my 1F engine has 2 cylinders with a compression of 40psi. I want to be able to drive the FJ40 with full compression and go out on the trails.

So, I need to either:

  1. Rebuild the 1F engine.
  2. Find a 2F engine to replace 1F. A few questions though:
    • does anyone have a 2F engine for sell?
    • if so, will it mate with my 3spd tranny without mods? Cash will be tight while I am building the shop and I do not want to spend extra money on missing parts, adapters, bell housings, etc.
Thanks,
 
If anyone has been following my post on my planned engine swap, the project was delayed. In summary:
I told my wife that I found a donor truck and was moving forward. Well...she reminded me that I promised her that I would build a woodworking shop for her before working on the FJ40. . Ahh shoot...I did say this. The swap has just been delayed a year or so.
Please recall that my 1F engine has 2 cylinders with a compression of 40psi. I want to be able to drive the FJ40 with full compression and go out on the trails.

So, I need to either:

  1. Rebuild the 1F engine.
  2. Find a 2F engine to replace 1F. A few questions though:
    • does anyone have a 2F engine for sell?
    • if so, will it mate with my 3spd tranny without mods? Cash will be tight while I am building the shop and I do not want to spend extra money on missing parts, adapters, bell housings, etc.
Thanks,

Man! This might turn into a bidding war!

We have a very healthy 1979 2F, H42 and one piece T-case that will be for sale very, very shortly. Probably the instant that the 3B I'm swapping into the truck gets permanently mounted (3 of 4 mounts are just tacked into place right now). As soon as I know I'm happy with how it sits, then the engine will be for sale.

I know Vince expressed interest, and Greg might know somebody who was interested as well.

I think a 2F would mate to your 3 speed--but why not switch to a 4 speed? We want to sell the engine/trans as a unit (I've never separated them, they're still attached as a unit).

But to answer your question: yes. There are 2Fs locally that will be for sale soon. I know I have the one, and I'm sure there are others (what condition they are in, I can't say). The only reason this one was pulled was to swap in the 3B.

Dan
 
Coupla things. Why did you put LC project priorities behind some artsy fartsy woodworking project - rookie manuever.

Anyway, I think you're going down the wrong path. The F series engines have plenty of umph to push around a 40 on the trail. The truck was designed to function properly in the field even with a very tired engine (ask me how I know). Keep in mind also that while 40 psi ain't great, you're never going to meet factory compression specs at this altitude. As I recall, your truck was not hitting all cylinders when you had it at the meeting at my place, which could be a factor in low compression from just a gunked up cylinder or two. More importantly, though, is that I never saw or smelled evidence of oil burning in the exhaust so I think your F has lot's more life in it. To avoid having the truck sit for a year and spending $$ on new motors and such I would recommend the following:

Sort out whatever fuel/ignition issues are causing your misfire. From the smell of your exhaust you were rich, meaning fuel starvation was liekely not the issue. Check or replace your dizzy cap/rotor and plug wires. Check in the dizzy for broken or missing centrifugal advance springs. These engines are extremely sensitive to timing, so ensure it's correct (my experience was 7 deg BTDC was best at this altitude).

Once you get all 6 banging, do the Mark Whately "diesel in the crankcase trick" (search MUD). This will loosen up any gook that's causing your rings to not seal well.

My sense is that you have an otherwise healthy engine, it just has a case of the sniffles or maybe even Swine Flu. Let me know what I can do to help.
Once you get all 6 bangin
 
Sort out whatever fuel/ignition issues are causing your misfire. From the smell of your exhaust you were rich, meaning fuel starvation was liekely not the issue. Check or replace your dizzy cap/rotor and plug wires. Check in the dizzy for broken or missing centrifugal advance springs. These engines are extremely sensitive to timing, so ensure it's correct (my experience was 7 deg BTDC was best at this altitude).

I replaced the wires, cap, plug, condensor, points, rotar, fuel filter. Adjusted carb and timing. I cannot get the timing to remain at 7 deg BTDC. I thought this may be due to my compression. And one "minor" issue. When I went to replace the points, my distro had the original points rivited in place. I drilled out the rivet and the pivot arm of the points did not fit snug in the whole I drilled out. However, the screw to hold down the points feels like it holds the points in place. But turning at a high rate, who knows what is really going on. Thinking about replaceing points with a Petronix now that they have the burn out while key on issue fixed.

After Pappy and Bad Mojo have their wrench days perhaps some of us could get together and take a look what is going on.

Once you get all 6 banging, do the Mark Whately "diesel in the crankcase trick" (search MUD). This will loosen up any gook that's causing your rings to not seal well.

Then there is Marvels Mystery Oil. However, I have never tried it. Was recommended to my by an oil field operator. Swares by it. What the hey, what do I got to lose if it fouls up my engine.
 
I know where there is a FJ60 electronic ignition system. Highly recommend.
 
I know where there is a FJ60 electronic ignition system. Highly recommend.

In the FJ60 over at the u pull it?

A word about FJ60 dizzy upgrade (see post #19)
I think the FJ60 ignition upgrade is way better (that's what I did on my 40) but the Pertronix thing is way cheaper. A lot depends on how well you can scrounge up parts. Keep in mind that the FJ60 ignition is basically waterproof, so one more advantage not yet mentioned.

The entire Pertronix package is $150 or so. Easy drop in.

Some rough costs to run FJ60 ignition:

Distributor: $100
Coil/Ignitor: $50 (+ spare $50)
New wires:$40
JimC rebuild/recurve $100
Carb rebuild/mods if no ported vacuum: $300
New side cover $72 (I've seen used for much less)


Anyway, FJ60 ignition is a great mod, it just isn't a cheap mod. Try the pertronix and see how you like it.​
 
Those prices for the FJ60 ignition is stupid money. More reasonable:

Distributor: $25
Coil/Ignitor: $15
Side cover: $10 at best.

These are prices at the U-Pull. Like I said, if Shawn hasn't sold that stuff I know where you can find it.
 
You got me all excitied when you said FJ60 at U-Pull. Then I checked their website and there wasn't one. :frown: oh well. So what makes the FJ60 starter better?
 
Before you start swapping out old techknology for new, get your current stuff running right and then you'll have a better idea what really needs replacing.

You won't be able to set a soild base timing as long as you have a regular missfire.

The "mystery oil" thing will have about 25% effectiness as the diesel approach at several times the cost. Fix the shade tree mechanic stuff before jumoing into the more esoteric fixes people talk about.
 
I'm with Greg, look to fix what you have. Live with a 4 cylinder for a while if needbe. Unless you find a 2f really cheap, drive it until you are ready to do it right. I had a 4 cylinder 2f for a long time in a 40. It got me around, just not very fast.
 
i do still have the ignition parts. when/if you are ready.
 

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