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engine stuck!

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by Heartworm, Jul 1, 2005.

  1. Heartworm

    Heartworm

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    I am trying to pull the 2F engine out of my 1986 FJ60. I think that I have everything broken loose. I put the jack under the transmission and used a hoist to the lift hooks. NADA! The motor won't break free. I am trying to separate the bell housing from the transmission. I have removed 4 bolts from the transmission into the bell housing. Is there something that is not obvious that I have missed? (Detached Items: exhaust pipe, all hoses and wires, front motor mounts, clutch slave, starter, fuel iines and pump, AC compressor, power steering, carb linkage, etc). Is it just binding at the trans input shaft? I have pried on it but the force just gets transfered back to the transmission. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Must return the lift Tues AM.
     
  2. djanis99

    djanis99

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    on an automatic transmission there are some bolts connecting the torque converter to the flywheel. I have never done it on an FJ but there is normally a window where you can get to these bolts.
     
  3. FJ40Jim

    FJ40Jim The Cruiser Whisperer SILVER Star

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    The front of the engine needs to be lifted just enough to come off the mounts. Now put a bottle jack under the rear of the transfer case, cause it's gonna want to drop down and bind as the snout of the tranny pulls out of the clutch.

    OK, now that the engine crane and t-case support are positioned, use a prying instrument to separate the transmission from the bellhousing. It can be stuck because there are 2 dowel pins on the bellhousing that precisely locate into the front of the tranny. They like to get stuck together. Hose down the parting area w/ penetrant. Keep prying and have a helper tug on the engine simultaneously. If all 4 bolts are out of the bellhousing, the parting line should at least open up, allowing you to get a couple of thin prytools in there to keep opening the gap.

    Once things are more than 1/4" apart, it should slip off the dowels. Then you can start lowering the t-case jack, raising the front of the engine and working it out of there. :beer: :beer:
     
  4. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

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    I normally find it easier to pull the entire drivetrain together....
     
  5. Cruiserdrew

    Cruiserdrew On the way there SILVER Star

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    I just did the opposite and pulled the tranny and transfer case. That part of the job was suprisingly easy. After the 4 bolts were out, the whole thing slid apart. Since the rear motor mount comes out with the tranny, you must support the rear of the motor with a jack-I used the mechanical jack from the Cruiser on a block of wood.

    Pay attention th Jim's advice about hanging on to the back of the t-case. The tranny and t-case will be very unstable once disconnected from the motor. Use the mechanical jack method and it should go ok. Be careful though-the tranny and transfer are heavier than you think.

    You may just want to pull the whole thing as a unit-pull the shifter boots and the shifters and you are done. Then lift out the entire drivetrain with the hoist.

    I wonder if the input shaft of the tranny is stuck or corroded in the pilot bearing?
     
  6. FJ40Jim

    FJ40Jim The Cruiser Whisperer SILVER Star

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    Bailey doesn't know that we've replaced his coffee w/ used 90Wt. :eek:

    Wait, no,... that's not right. :confused:
    Bailey doesn't know that on 81-newer Land Cruisers, the tranny/transfer assembly sits on a dedicated crossmember, making it feasible, nay easy, to undo the 4 bolts and pull the engine away from the tranny. :doh:

    On older cruisers it is extremely difficult to leave the tranny in the vehicle, since the tranny is not actually attached to the vehicle, only to the BH.