I should have said that it sputtered for a few seconds, not minutes. I've owned the LC for one year and that was the only time it happened.
Engine shutting off during long trips.
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I should have said that it sputtered for a few seconds, not minutes. I've owned the LC for one year and that was the only time it happened.
I'll look into that, thanks for the suggestion.
My new to me 2006 just did the same thing. Pulled a trailer with two 4wheelers on it about 350 miles. Arrived home - parked in my driveway unloaded trailer and drove around the corner to drop the trailer off and the truck wouldn't start, cranked but wouldn't catch. Finally did after 2 tries starting and it sputtered and ran extremely rough for 30 seconds - it just acted like the motor was flooded. I shut it off - let it set another 30 seconds and it fired right up again. I could smell fuel and it acted like the motor was flooded. I'm very disappointed to say the least. I just bought the truck, with 80k miles on it. Tough pill to swallow that if you push the motor hard you have to be prepared for the motor to stall and or not want to start for 10-15 minutes. Very lame. I'm subscribed and hoping we can find a fix for it.
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- #64
I have to agree with you. I have owned mine for over one year. I bought it for the specific reason that it is overengineered. That's why I paid a premium. Having said this, it has surpassed my expectations in every other way.
I am fortunate to have a great friend who is a Toyota Super Ninja. He pointed me to a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) EG052-06 dated August 24, 2006 Titled: Intermittent Hot Soak NO-Start. The bulletin states that 05 -06 Land Cruiser 2UZ-FE Camshaft Position Sensor assembly has been improved to prevent the vehicle from not wanting to start after the motor is hot.
I never had the truck die on me while moving - my issue was after the motor was hot - it would appear to be flooded and wouldn't want to start. The TSB addresses my issue directly. The bulletin recommends replacing the camshaft position sensor if you get a check engine light with the codes P0335 and/or P1340. I have never thrown a code when I have the issue - but I am still planning on replacing the sensor in question when I complete my 90k timing belt work in the next month - it looks to be about $100 bucks and hopefully that will resolve my issue. Not sure it will fix all that has been described in this thread but I hope this helps anyone that is having the same hot-start issue.
I never had the truck die on me while moving - my issue was after the motor was hot - it would appear to be flooded and wouldn't want to start. The TSB addresses my issue directly. The bulletin recommends replacing the camshaft position sensor if you get a check engine light with the codes P0335 and/or P1340. I have never thrown a code when I have the issue - but I am still planning on replacing the sensor in question when I complete my 90k timing belt work in the next month - it looks to be about $100 bucks and hopefully that will resolve my issue. Not sure it will fix all that has been described in this thread but I hope this helps anyone that is having the same hot-start issue.
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cam position sensor
I too found that particular TSB last summer after I first started having the no start problem. I have kept replacing it in the back of my mind when I do the 90k service, but I recall the sensors with the issue would always produce the MIL, check engine light, when the problem occurred so I am not fully convinced this will solve the problem. Someone has to give it a try thought and for ~$100 and no additional labor when doing the 90k service it would be good to try it. I have never gotten a code when having hot start issues.
I too found that particular TSB last summer after I first started having the no start problem. I have kept replacing it in the back of my mind when I do the 90k service, but I recall the sensors with the issue would always produce the MIL, check engine light, when the problem occurred so I am not fully convinced this will solve the problem. Someone has to give it a try thought and for ~$100 and no additional labor when doing the 90k service it would be good to try it. I have never gotten a code when having hot start issues.
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- #67
Do you know the specific sensors?
The TSB says the event can occur WITHOUT the MIL and then gives a procedure to check the cam alignment with a specific diagnostic tool and recommends replacing the sensor if an issue is found.
The way I read it is that you can have the hot-start issue without throwing a code - which has happened to me twice.
And yes since I will be in there on the 90k service I am going to replace the sensor for sure. I'll report back after I do the work and drive it for a while.
camshaft position sensor. Part number is on the TSB at my office. Sorry.
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- #70
Great info. This forum is priceless for good information.
Utahfj62,
perhaps I was not looking at the same TSB that you have then. When you have an opportunity would you mind posing the TSB number you have so I can check it out? Your information seems slightly different then I remember...thanks.
perhaps I was not looking at the same TSB that you have then. When you have an opportunity would you mind posing the TSB number you have so I can check it out? Your information seems slightly different then I remember...thanks.
I cannot find any information regarding a TSB for the crank position sensor for this time period.
There is one for the Charcoal Canister and EVAP system.
View attachment M.I.L._ON_DTC_P0335_AND_OR_P1340_INTERMITTENT_HOT_SOAK_NO-START_T-EG052-06.pdf
Here's the PDF for the corresponding TSB.
Here's the PDF for the corresponding TSB.
That's for the camshaft.
The whole time I am searching for the crankshaft sensor since someone mentioned that one...
Gotcha.
19300–50030 seems to be the replacement part number. Toyota updated the Camshaft Sensor assembly.
19300–50030 seems to be the replacement part number. Toyota updated the Camshaft Sensor assembly.
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- #76
Can you post more information on the Charcoal Canister and EVAP system TSB? That is the information I found earlier and the reason for the engine flooding.
Document is attached.
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- #78
Got it, still having trouble opening it for my iPad. I think I just have to log on with my laptop.
Thx
Have the identical problem, except mine is an '07 LX 470. There is a thread over at the LX Board, but not the detail as here. Several people have posted however.
Never had a stalling issue before this very hot summer. This has happened twice--First, backing a motorcycle trailer into my driveway after a 120 mile drive through the desert. Second, getting off the freeway (again with a motorcycle trailer) after a 120 mile drive through the desert. Both times the vehicle stopped dead. I tried to re-start, and it rand roughly (like the old 1970's cars with the first emission control devices that would "diesel" after the car was turned off. This would go on for about 10 seconds and the truck would die. Wait about 10 minutes, started right up.
The first time, I took the truck to Larry Miller Lexus here in Salt Lake. They ran a full computer check which (naturally) came up with nothing. However, the service writer told me that mine was the third one they had heard about that had had the problem. One was driving out of Vegas, and the other St. George in Southern Utah. No explanation, other than it sounded to him like vapor lock (which is rare in fuel-injected vehicles).
The second time, although it started, about 5 minutes later the situation repeated itself.
Here are the parameters:
No prior incidents.
76,000 miles on the truck
1/4 full gas tank
Vehicle operating at essentially idle speed when stalls
Air conditioner on.
Pulling trailer --400 lbs loaded (query--could it be an electrical glitch at the hitch? Just thinking out loud)
Good gas (bought from the same station for 4 years)--premium.
After initial start-up, engine runs very rough (knocking and rattling around 600-800 rpm) for about 10 seconds and then dies.
After about 10 minutes, starts back up and runs with no problem.
A couple of thoughts--First, I suspect it is hot temperature-related (obviously) and I think wear-related, since it seems to be a pretty new issue in the older, higher-mileage 2006-07 vehicles. Second, I doubt if it is related to the cats, or we would see it much more often as time went on. Third, it is not related to the starter, battery, or ECU. I suspect it is the cam thing, fuel pump (a wear item), gas cap or vapor control system.
In addition, it is clearly a safety issue. The first time it happened, I blocked my residential street. The second time, I blocked a freeway offramp. So I am going to write to NHTSA and file a formal safety notice. I recommend that all of you do as well. I will post the link after I do.
Second, I am going to go back to the dealer tomorrow with these TSBs and the posts and ask them to investigate with Lexus US and Toyota US. I love the truck and want to get to the bottom of the problem. These vehicles are used all over the Middle East and Africa, so they are used to really hot weather.
If it happens again, I am going to vent the gas cap, pull out and re-insert the key, turn off the air conditioner, say some Hail Marys, etc., and see if it makes a difference or can narrow this problem down.
This should be a known problem and known fix. We just have to find out what it is.
Never had a stalling issue before this very hot summer. This has happened twice--First, backing a motorcycle trailer into my driveway after a 120 mile drive through the desert. Second, getting off the freeway (again with a motorcycle trailer) after a 120 mile drive through the desert. Both times the vehicle stopped dead. I tried to re-start, and it rand roughly (like the old 1970's cars with the first emission control devices that would "diesel" after the car was turned off. This would go on for about 10 seconds and the truck would die. Wait about 10 minutes, started right up.
The first time, I took the truck to Larry Miller Lexus here in Salt Lake. They ran a full computer check which (naturally) came up with nothing. However, the service writer told me that mine was the third one they had heard about that had had the problem. One was driving out of Vegas, and the other St. George in Southern Utah. No explanation, other than it sounded to him like vapor lock (which is rare in fuel-injected vehicles).
The second time, although it started, about 5 minutes later the situation repeated itself.
Here are the parameters:
No prior incidents.
76,000 miles on the truck
1/4 full gas tank
Vehicle operating at essentially idle speed when stalls
Air conditioner on.
Pulling trailer --400 lbs loaded (query--could it be an electrical glitch at the hitch? Just thinking out loud)
Good gas (bought from the same station for 4 years)--premium.
After initial start-up, engine runs very rough (knocking and rattling around 600-800 rpm) for about 10 seconds and then dies.
After about 10 minutes, starts back up and runs with no problem.
A couple of thoughts--First, I suspect it is hot temperature-related (obviously) and I think wear-related, since it seems to be a pretty new issue in the older, higher-mileage 2006-07 vehicles. Second, I doubt if it is related to the cats, or we would see it much more often as time went on. Third, it is not related to the starter, battery, or ECU. I suspect it is the cam thing, fuel pump (a wear item), gas cap or vapor control system.
In addition, it is clearly a safety issue. The first time it happened, I blocked my residential street. The second time, I blocked a freeway offramp. So I am going to write to NHTSA and file a formal safety notice. I recommend that all of you do as well. I will post the link after I do.
Second, I am going to go back to the dealer tomorrow with these TSBs and the posts and ask them to investigate with Lexus US and Toyota US. I love the truck and want to get to the bottom of the problem. These vehicles are used all over the Middle East and Africa, so they are used to really hot weather.
If it happens again, I am going to vent the gas cap, pull out and re-insert the key, turn off the air conditioner, say some Hail Marys, etc., and see if it makes a difference or can narrow this problem down.
This should be a known problem and known fix. We just have to find out what it is.
Just thinking why not list all the differences between the 2005 and the (2006-2007's) that are having this problem. One of those components is causing the problem and I agree it must be an age wear issue??
