Engine shutting off during long trips. (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I had to Post This picture of the LC prior to our departure...Wth my dog.

Also, thanks to front runner for my roof rack and accessories for it. I feel like the LC isfinally complete.

image-526517413.jpg
 
The problem is back!

I drove to lake arrowhead today and the car stalled after 2 hours of driving. The environment which seems to cause this is a heavy load (over 800 lbs), high outside temps ( in all cases around 100 temps), and a sudden increase in altitude.

Any suggestions?
 
You might want to keep a notebook handy with Toyota TechStream on it.
- You can hopefully check sensors: 02, Mass Airflow, etc.
- I'm not sure if this provides fuel rail pressure

Start with the basics: Air, Fuel, Spark

- I presume you have air
- Plug off a plug wire, verify you have spark during the failure
- Crank the engine a few times and then pull a spark plug. Is it wet? Got fuel?
- If it is wet and you have spark, then your mixture is off and that puts you on a sensor hunt.

I also really like the website www.justanswer.com. For $15 to $20 you get access to a Toyota technician. They will walk you through the troubleshooting process. I have no affiliation with this website. I have been very pleased with the expertise I have received on 2 really bizarre problems on an Avalon. They are much better than my local stealership.

Good Luck.
 
You might want to keep a notebook handy with Toyota TechStream on it.
- You can hopefully check sensors: 02, Mass Airflow, etc.
- I'm not sure if this provides fuel rail pressure

Start with the basics: Air, Fuel, Spark

- I presume you have air
- Plug off a plug wire, verify you have spark during the failure
- Crank the engine a few times and then pull a spark plug. Is it wet? Got fuel?
- If it is wet and you have spark, then your mixture is off and that puts you on a sensor hunt.

I also really like the website www.justanswer.com. For $15 to $20 you get access to a Toyota technician. They will walk you through the troubleshooting process. I have no affiliation with this website. I have been very pleased with the expertise I have received on 2 really bizarre problems on an Avalon. They are much better than my local stealership.

Good Luck.

Good suggestions, although I don't think I can keep a notebook on me as the shutting off is very rare. Last time I had ithappened was a long time ago and it happens no more twice a year.

I don't think it's spark issue And it has something to do with a combination of high heat and Altitude change.

the 2006 and 2007 went to different cats and different Configuration. I'm still leaning towards that being a problem. It may also be the fuel pump, or something to do with the mass airflow sensor as the altitude change and thinning of the air May be the problem.

One thing I did notice is the car would not start until I turned the ignition off and pull the key out put it back in then it started right up again.
 
i thought i would post the Specific variables which caused the three engine shutdowns which I have experienced.

1. July 2012, drove through northern Nevada with temperatures reaching above 100°, car was loaded with around 600 pounds and on three different occasions the car shut down.

2. April 2013, driving back from Las Vegas and crossing over into California, temperatures reaching over 100°, with about 700 pounds in the car, the car started stalling after climbing a long hill on the highway.

3. July 2013, driving up to Lake arrowhead, drove through temperatures of over 100° but when the car started stalling the temperatures were around 80°, the car was loaded with about 800 pounds and stalled after a long climb up the the mountainside.

Any one else who has had the stalling problems, can you post your variables so we can see if there any other commonalities. The obvious ones are high-temperature, car weighed down and stalling happening after long trips.

Lastly, this problem seems to be unique to 2006 and 2007 models. Does anyone know the specific changes which have taken place from 2005 to 2006 models. I know the catalytic converters changed. Anything else?
 
My 06 has done this twice, both after hill climbs. Temps were prob in the 80s, and I was in 4LO. No other factors as far as I can tell.

Solution both times was to let it sit for 5 mins. It acted like it was flooded...

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD, and hopefully approved by the NSA.
 
My 06 has done this twice, both after hill climbs. Temps were prob in the 80s, and I was in 4LO. No other factors as far as I can tell.

Solution both times was to let it sit for 5 mins. It acted like it was flooded...

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD, and hopefully approved by the NSA.

I'm hoping to keep this thread alive until someone who has solved this issue posts their findings. I'm surprised it has taken this long...
 
I found this on the forum. the symptoms seem to be exactly what I have. The uphill requires more use of the throttle, while the downhill requires completely off throttle. BTW...we have a cabin in Lake Arrowhead and we've taken several trips out there this year alone. This last visit was the only time the LC has stalled on that route. And it just so happens I used a different route this time then ever before (navigation rerouted me). The new route had a steep downhill roll of a .25mile or so after the 30minute climb up the mountain.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/524291-100-vx-2uz-fe-stalling.html

the problem is the member is discussing a second tank in the spare tire compartment and really doesn't have a solution for solving the problem. There is a detailed explanation and a diagram of the fuel system.
 
Add my 2006 to the list...

Happened on Friday - in perhaps one of the worst possible places. I was driving on I70 from Denver to Vail, and about half way through the Eisenhower Tunnel engine was feeling sluggish, looked down at the dash and noticed the car was no longer running. I threw on the hazard lights, shifted to neutral and tried to restart with no luck. I was able to coast a bit, but came to a dead stop in the tunnel, a few hundred feet from the end.

While stopped, had wife start to call the auto club, while I tried everything I could think of (without being able to get out of the car - heavy tunnel traffic).

- Pulled key out, back in, verified the security light goes off
- Tried cranking with WOT (both using the crank-hold and holding key turned)
- shut off all electronics, a/c, etc
- rubbed belly, tapped head...

Engine was turning over, just not starting. A few minutes later a CDOT truck came up behind and pushed me (bumper to bumper) out of the tunnel to a safe position.

Now that I was safe, and not causing havoc in the tunnel, I opened up the gas cap - did not hear any venting. Looked under the hood for anything obvious, didn't see any issues. Probably about 15-20 minutes has gone by so I tried to restart, and... starts right up.

A friendly tow truck driver comes by, to see if I need any help - he says my fuel pump overheated (similar to vapor lock on carbureted cars). He says he sees it all day long up there.

It was around 70/75 F out. Off/on light rain.
I was a little low on gas - no light on, so probably had at least 5 gallons left in the tank.
Denver is at 5280 feet, car died in the tunnel around 11,000 feet. Very heavy traffic leading up the tunnel - stop and go for much the way.

This the first/only time I've had this problem, but have only owned this 2006 100 for 8-9 months. No CEL during the ordeal.

Got just over 100K miles, truck has been healthy and decent maintenance records. I did have issues with the Air Injection Pump Emissions Systems - but believe those are all behind me.
 
Overheating fuel pump actually makes perfect sense for my two shutoff issues...

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD, and hopefully approved by the NSA.
 
I've always suspected your the fuel pump, I guess I just needed confirmation to do it. I happen to have an extended warranty which covers the fuel pump, I will try to let you guys know.
 
Might be a long shot but something similar happens on 2006 Yamaha raptor atv's and here's the fix:

HOW TO CHECK FUEL PUMP VAPOR LOCK FOR '06 RAPTOR 700



Vapor lock on the '06 Yamaha Raptor 700's has been a common problem.

Symptom: Intermittent “hard starting” when the engine is hot, usually occurring 5 – 10 minutes after shutting the engine off. Most commonly reported in the Northeastern regions and desert.

Cause: The seasonal gasoline in these areas has lower vapor pressure and subsequently lower boiling point then fuel commonly found in other regions. This allows bubbles to collect in the fuel pick-up tube, causing the pump to temporarily cavitate or vapor lock. The pump will usually prime after several minutes and operate normal again.

Remedy: The fuel-vapor bleed hole was enlarged on mid production units to prevent vapor build up. If you experience a similar compliant, replace the fuel pump with FUEL PUMP COMP. (P/N:1S3-13907-02-00) which has a 0.8 mm bleed hole.
 
I've always suspected the fuel pump, I just needed confirmation to do it. I happen to have an extended warranty which covers the fuel pump, I will try and let you guys know.

My iPhone voice recognition needs some upgrading...
 
Would Not Start on Imogene Pass

I had a similar issue two weekends ago with my 2006 LC, so I found this thread and have been following it. The difference is my LC did not stall...it just would not start.

My wife and I went to Ouray for some camping and wheeling. We took Ophir Pass to Teluride, had lunch, and then started up Imogene Pass.

When we got to the top of Imogene (>13000 feet), I shut off the truck to take some pictures and check the tire pressures. Sat for about 10 minutes. Then we decided to take in another view from the top about a half mile away. Truck started right up and we drove 1/2 mile. Shut off the truck and took some more pics.

Ready to go and the truck turned over, but would not start. The 10 vehicles that had been up there were now gone, so we were alone, on the top of a mountain at 5:30 pm. Still probably better than stalling in the Eisenhower Tunnel.

No codes. Strong gas smell. Also it was cold up there, but the outdoor temp was reading 91°F?? I had a 1/2 tank of gas. I had just installed a new K & N filter before the trip, so I thought maybe the MAF got oil on it. Messed with the MAF, tried to start with it unplugged (then I got codes P0102 and P0113). Replugged MAF -- no go. Waited 15 minutes and it started up but ran rough for a few minutes. I put it in gear and headed down the pass with no more problems.

Vapor lock sounds plausible. Do you think a new fuel pump would change anything if the design hasn't changed?
 
I'd replace the stock gas cap with one that has a ventilation valve and go from there.
 
what is uniquie about the 2006 fuel pump?

Our problems with either stalling or not starting seem to keep circling back to the fuel pump. Last summer we had a very hot summer here in Colorado Springs and my 2006 would stall fairly regularly even with sort of typical city driving. I did get the vehicle to my mechanic when is was stalling and barely running. It was running really rough and then stalled in the bay of the shop. He immediately pulled the fuel line off the fuel filter and i would way an excessive amount of vapor came out. We measured the fuel pressure while everything was still hot and it was 38psi. I left and he measured it after everything cooled down ant it was 42psi. He recommended fuel pump replacement and I reluctantly agreed. He had trouble finding the exact same fuel pump to replace it with and had to send two back that he ordered but turned out to not be an exact match. He told me that this seems to be an odd ball fuel pump only used in 2006, but would not replace it with anything other than an identical fuel pump. After replacement I no longer have stalling, but on two occasions the LX would not start after hot under power runs up the side of the mountain here.

Initially when there was a lot of vapour in the fuel line pump cavitation was my first thought and I explored it a bit but could not find how cavitation could be possible.

Can anyone get specific details in the fuel pumps used in 2005, 2006, and 2007 so we could start trying to determine if this overheating/cavitation is really the root cause?
 
I took a look at the part numbers and am not really sure what to make of it. Maybe Beno or our other part experts can chime in.

One source says fuel pump (23221-74110) was used from 98-06 and then changed to (23221-66040) in 2007. Another source says 06 & 07 both used the later part (23221-66040). This "MIGHT" mean the 2006 year received either fuel pump. I dunno.

Here's the thing, the replacement part number for all years 98-07 is also the later PN (23221-66040).

It might be worthwhile for those 2006 owners to check which fuel pump they have. If this problem is non-existent in 2007's, then you might have your solution right there. :meh:
 
I don't know what the original fuel pump was, but the replacement one is the 23221-66040 in my 2006. I have not experienced the stalling issue since replacement, but have had two occasions where it did not restart after a hot climb for a period of 5-15 minutes.
 
I had a similar issue two weekends ago with my 2006 LC, so I found this thread and have been following it. The difference is my LC did not stall...it just would not start.

My wife and I went to Ouray for some camping and wheeling. We took Ophir Pass to Teluride, had lunch, and then started up Imogene Pass.

When we got to the top of Imogene (>13000 feet), I shut off the truck to take some pictures and check the tire pressures. Sat for about 10 minutes. Then we decided to take in another view from the top about a half mile away. Truck started right up and we drove 1/2 mile. Shut off the truck and took some more pics.

Ready to go and the truck turned over, but would not start. The 10 vehicles that had been up there were now gone, so we were alone, on the top of a mountain at 5:30 pm. Still probably better than stalling in the Eisenhower Tunnel.

No codes. Strong gas smell. Also it was cold up there, but the outdoor temp was reading 91°F?? I had a 1/2 tank of gas. I had just installed a new K & N filter before the trip, so I thought maybe the MAF got oil on it. Messed with the MAF, tried to start with it unplugged (then I got codes P0102 and P0113). Replugged MAF -- no go. Waited 15 minutes and it started up but ran rough for a few minutes. I put it in gear and headed down the pass with no more problems.

Vapor lock sounds plausible. Do you think a new fuel pump would change anything if the design hasn't changed?

In your case I would think you got some water in the fuel. The rough idle is odd. Is this the only time it's happened?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom