Engine light and Airbag light in my 40th

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Mikesta

Never decruiserfied
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Well, want to ask the experts here about these two lights.

They have been blaring at me for 30k miles and provide a good map reading atmosphere weather I like it or not.

The Airbag light was activated immediatly after Les Shwab turned my rotors and has been on since... is this a cable that could be corrupt or needs cleaning.

The engine light came on around 130k, now the trucks at 160k... goes on and off at its own whim.

I am a computer geek by trade and am very handy... remodel houses and restore cars (old computerless ones). Can someone offer me advice or point me to the right thread. I really appreciate it!

Edit*... ah and I have never done any maintenence to this truck other than 3k oil changes and new rotors/brakes since i've owned it... to narrow down the variable for the experts equation.

thanks
 
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Take it to Autozone to have the code read and diagnose it from there. You got me on the airbag though...never had to mess with it.
 
Being a geek by trade spend a little money with Alex at www.obd-2.com. Load up this stuff on your laptop, plug it into the socket behind the fuse cover panel and diagnose away. Unfortunately, i don't think this will do anything for the hairbag light. I'd be tempted to disconnect the battery for a few so your comp resets itself....and see if it returns. Other than that...check fuses relays, crawl aroud to see if Les' boy disconnected anything.
 
Thanks Todd, now we're talking :). The EGR valve... that is located on the valve cover correct?
 
wow, it takes a brave man to drive 30K with a CEL on... :eek:
 
Mikesta,

The EGR valve is at the rear of the engine and bolts to the intake and to the EGR pipe. Do not assume this is causing your MIL.

The PCV valve is toward the front of the engine; located on the valve cover. Do not assume this is causing your MIL.

The "valve" that LX_Treme is referring to is the VSV for EGR. It is located underneath the intake; accessible from under the truck and through the side. Do not assume this is causing your MIL unless the code is a P0401; then you can become more suspiscious.

-B-
 
What "B" just said..assume nothing. Get yourself the software and cable and read the tea leaves as it were. But if I were a bettin man..open to bettin on speculation...since you've been running it for over 30k with apparently no loss in performance....$1 says it's probably O2 sensor #1.
 
look in the FSM for how to pull codes from the airbad system "SRS"


for 96 LX: may be the same for 97 LC?
2. Using diagnosis check wire:
CHECK DTC
(a) Output the DTC.
(1) Turn the ignition switch to ACC or ON position and
wait approx. 20 seconds.
(2) Using SST, connect terminals Tc and E1 of the
DLC1.
SST 09843–18020
NOTICE:
Never make a mistake with the terminal connection position
as this will cause a malfunction.
(b) Read the DTC.
Read the 2–digit DTC as indicated by the number of times
the SRS warning light blinks. As an example, the blinking
patterns, normal, 11 and 31 are as shown on the illustration.
 Normal code indication
The light will blink 2 times per second.

– DIAGNOSTICS SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM

 Malfunction code indication
The first blinking output indicates the first digit
of a 2–digit DTC. After a 1.5 second pause,
the second blinking output will indicate the
second digit.


If there are 2 or more codes, there will be a 2.5 second pause
between each codes. After al the codes have been output,
there will be a 4.0 second pause and they will all be repeated.
HINT:
 In the event of a number of trouble codes, indication will
start from the smallest numbered code.
 If it does not output a DTC or outputs a DTC without terminal
connection, proceed to the Tc terminal circuit inspection
on page DI–267.

1996 LEXUS LX450 (RM482U)


once you have the code the FSM should point you in the right direction


did they turn the rotors in place? wonder if they damaged one of the harnesses? could be as simple as somethign unplugged
 
All this advice has been helpful, will have to get this tool... perhaps after I get my 45LV garaged.
 
Warning: stupid question:

You're sure it's the airbag light and not the ABS light?
 
Dont believe in stupid questions...

the ABS light would show a bright ABS (always should when your first turn your key on)... second icon from the left

The airbag light I see is all the way to the left on the dash... and shows an airbag (large circle) a seatbelt and a man reclined.


How I wish it was ABS
 
Mikesta said:
Dont believe in stupid questions...
the ABS light would show a bright ABS (always should when your first turn your key on)... second icon from the left
The airbag light I see is all the way to the left on the dash... and shows an airbag (large circle) a seatbelt and a man reclined.
How I wish it was ABS

I wouldn't drive 2 miles with an airbag light on, let alone 30K. Same goes for the MIL. Spend $40 and buy a OBD-II reader from Autozone. These lights indicate a malfunction and to ignore them could cause serious damage, mechanically and financially. The truck won't last you as long as it should ignoring problems like these.

Jim
 
"The Airbag light was activated immediatly after Les Shwab turned my rotors and has been on since... is this a cable that could be corrupt or needs cleaning"
.

This one, the airbag light, might be as simple as a fuse. It's common safety practice for mechanics to interrupt the airbag circuitry whenever working near the bag so that an inadvertent short won't activate the bag and decapitate a mechanic. It's also common for the mechanic to neglect to plug it back in when finished. Some places make it a practice to unplug the bags whenever a vehicle comes in for whatever reason. Normally it'd be kinda' surprising that it wouldn't be noticed in roadtesting a brake job, but at a Les Schwab outlet anything is possible. Look for large yellow fuseholders at your fuseblock.
 
Honk: Great info... thanks, I will check this tonight

LX_treme: This happens with my truck as well... It is very intermittent, and has been for the 30k miles.

Having owned over 70 cars in 16 years, I have found that lights pop up more times so that you can take it into the dealership and have them tell you you need all this expensive work done. I have always ignored lights... always, unless of course I did find a loss of power or electrical problems, and its probably saved me alot of money... actually, it has. I usually drive cars till they die and get another one, however on this 40th, I will never sell it... it will be rebuilt by my now 1 year old in 14 years and given to him. So, I may or may not put another Motor in it in the next 15 years... of course by that time it will be 300k +.... ok back off the rabbit trail...

I do want to take good care of this truck, and so far this site has been very helpful... this thread expecially... havent found a site better so far.

I hope to contribute, and will keep this thread alive with updates.
 
Mikesta,

A couple of things -

First, reading the airbag code doesn't really require a SST - a paperclip works just as well. You are just jumping two pins on the diagnosic connector under the hood. I did this myself last week.

Second, get a FSM, or at least the $10 for 24 hours of access on the online one. It has an entire section on diagnosing SRS airbag issues. What the codes mean and what the troubleshooting steps are. Same thing a factory trained tech would use.

Once you figure out what is wrong and fix it, you can reset the SRS light with two regular wires. I did this myself last week as well. Instructions are in the FSM, and also if you search for my username and airbag you'll find them posted here.

With the online access to the FSM, if you are comfortable with computers and have a fast connection, you can download the entire fsm in a reasonably short time.

Good luck,
Charlie

PS. An OBD-II code reader is a great investment. I've saved countless $$$ on a variety of vehicles by using this code reader. I overpaid, I got it when I needed to figure something out in a hurry. It paid for itself the first time I used it and I have used it on at least 6 different vehicles since then - now including our new-to-us landcruiser. (note- The Toyota dealer will charge you for reading any codes. $35 to read an airbag code that will cost you all of $.01 for a paperclip. I've heard as much as $99 to read an OBD-II code - but never asked myself)
 
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CharlieS, I like the way you think. :beer:

My dealership charges $89 to reset the thing.

Can someone please provide EXACT instructions, and pics would be one step better. I am somewhat familiar, I have done similar diagnosis on a motorcycle.

Thanks,

Frank
 
CharlieS said:
Mikesta,

A couple of things -

First, reading the airbag code doesn't really require a SST - a paperclip works just as well. You are just jumping two pins on the diagnosic connector under the hood. I did this myself last week.

Ok, I can do this, can you tell me exactly where it is? And does the key have to be off?

CharlieS said:
Second, get a FSM, or at least the $10 for 24 hours of access on the online one. It has an entire section on diagnosing SRS airbag issues. What the codes mean and what the troubleshooting steps are. Same thing a factory trained tech would use.

Please explain, what is "FMS"? What does this do for me exactly?

CharlieS said:
Once you figure out what is wrong and fix it, you can reset the SRS light with two regular wires. I did this myself last week as well. Instructions are in the FSM, and also if you search for my username and airbag you'll find them posted here.

With the online access to the FSM, if you are comfortable with computers and have a fast connection, you can download the entire fsm in a reasonably short time.

OK, exactly how do you reset it with two regular wires?

Thanks,

Frank
 
FSM = Factory Service Manual, a very comprehensive manual written by Toyota specifically for your model and year. Far superior to the Hanes/Chiltons manuals. It is just about required for this kind of work. It will have the diagrams and directions you will need. You can order the printed copy of the FSM from CDan at a good discounted price, and/or get the electronic copy online, see the FAQ, I have both the printed and electronic copies, having both is nice. Unfortunately had to pay full price for the printed copies as Dan cannot get the slightly different LX450 Manuals.

You should also get the EWD (electric wiring diagram) wile you are at it incase you have to chase wires.
 

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