Engine Hoist

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Sep 8, 2006
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Location
Costa Mesa, CA
3FE Pulled

I am pulling the motor on my 1988 FJ62 and replacing it with a used motor I purchased from another Mudder.

My questions is this: Is a 1000lb. rated hoist (Harbor Freight quality) sufficient to safely get the job done?

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Should be OK. Be careful its a big biatch!

If it wont lift it you can pull motor by itself and drop tranny/t-case from underneath.

BTW mine is 2k...

Motivation

DSCN3527.jpg
 
Is the 1000lb rating with the lift arm all the way in or extended out?
 
1k is about half of what all the other cheap, china made lifts are rated at.
i would make sure that is the actual rating, cause it sure looks like all the other 2k lifts out there.
not sure i would trust a lift only factory rated at 1k. the 2ks get wiggly and jiggly after a few uses.
 
Check the side of the crane. I believe you are talking about 1000 lb fully extended. I believe I have the same one and it is that way. I think it's 2k lb fully retracted.

Oh wait, you have the fold up legs. Mine don't do that. You should still be fine with 1000 lb capacity.

Frank
 
I use a Harbor Freight hoist.

It's load capacity increases when you shorten the arm.

Also have a floor jack, engine stand, and various jack stands from them.

Just keep hydraulic oil in them otherwise they will fail. I think we've topped them off once in the 5 years we've owned them.

Just to show you Harbor Freight is not junk:

0dcb97ef.jpg


Fully extended arm, motor/transmission/transfer. No issues.
 
Thanks everyone for your replies, I appreciate it. The lift pictured turns out to have a 2000lb. rating not exended. It should work out fine. :) Picked up the 2000lb. hoist and 1000lb. engine stand for $160.00 cash. They were brand new, never used. The guy bought them to pull a boat motor and gave up and sold the boat. :)
 
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Yeah, I wouldn't lift a 'cruiser motor with a lift rated less than a ton!
Reason being, it's a big, unwieldy beast that has a lot of mass over
more length than most motors.

I have a 1k rated engine stand that a 3fe twisted up like a taco.
Couldn't take all the weight extended out so far. And was very tippy
before it failed.
It probably would have held an orginal Hemi, but that's a very compact
engine compared to the I6. Even though it weighs more...

t
 
be carefull, youll probably gonna need a couple buddys to help the transmission over the front.
 
Yeah, I wouldn't lift a 'cruiser motor with a lift rated less than a ton!
Reason being, it's a big, unwieldy beast that has a lot of mass over
more length than most motors.

I have a 1k rated engine stand that a 3fe twisted up like a taco.
Couldn't take all the weight extended out so far. And was very tippy
before it failed.
It probably would have held an orginal Hemi, but that's a very compact
engine compared to the I6. Even though it weighs more...

Well that kinda freaks me out. Maybe I'll sell the engine stand and upgrade to a 1 ton model. :)

t

be carefull, youll probably gonna need a couple buddys to help the transmission over the front.

Forgive my ignorance but why would I need to remove the transmission??
 
It is easiest to bring the engine, transmission and t-case out all in one piece over the front bumper - see above pic

IIRC about 1100lbs
 
It is easiest to bring the engine, transmission and t-case out all in one piece over the front bumper - see above pic

IIRC about 1100lbs

Could you elaborate a bit as to why its easier to bring the trans and t-case with the motor please. I am not doing a rebuild just a swap and want to minimize the time invested. Is there just not enough room to slide the motor forward keeping the torque converter (auto) in the trans and then lift it out?
 
The bugger on these is always getting to the bolts that hold the engine and transmission together.

If you can get to those and the torque converter bolts, that's about it. The top two bolts on the bellhousing are tough.

I pulled only the engine on an '80 without any issue. I went in through the hole created when the shifter console was removed with a LOOONG extension to get to the top bolts, but after that it was OK.

Good luck, if I was just a little closer I'd come and help for the experience on a 62.
 
those 2 bolts on top of bellhousing are tricky. best to take the whole motor/trans/tcase out as one.

if you work at it fast enuf, you can have it all out in <3hours
 
those 2 bolts on top of bellhousing are tricky. best to take the whole motor/trans/tcase out as one.

if you work at it fast enuf, you can have it all out in <3hours

Thanks, I just don't think I'll have two buddies available to help out. My 19yr old is big and strong and I'm not a weakling. Can two us handle it in a pinch??

Thanks for your opinion.
 
Two harbor freight hydraulic presses failed in two shops in a year. The third one put its onwer in a hospital. Don,t bet your life on it if you value it. If it was a jack stand, go OTC.
 
Oh, and don't be afraid to (carefully) use a trolley jack underneath for guidance...

Yeah, get the beefy engine stand, the one with 4 wheels, not 3!

t
 
Yep get the 4 wheel stand. Just did my 2F a few months ago with the 2 ton lift. Glad I got that one because I had to extend it out to get the engine centered, was working by myself. Those 2Fs weigh 750 lbs I believe (-trans), and the 4 wheel stand was worth the cost when I was moving it around shop and fliping it during rebuild.
 

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