- Thread starter
- #21
Thanks for the comments guys. I like the idea of an additional jack under the trans or motor to help things along and I will be careful, use good judgment and upgrade to a 1 ton engine stand.
Engine Hoist
- Thread starter gon2srf
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Thanks for the comments guys. I like the idea of an additional jack under the trans or motor to help things along and I will be careful, use good judgment and upgrade to a 1 ton engine stand.
- Thread starter
- #22
Thanks again guys for all the great advice. I want to keep all my digits intact so I'll heed the advice and be as careful as one can.
- Thread starter
- #23
Is it pretty easy to figure out what I need to disconnect to pull the tranny and T-Case in addition to the motor?
Yes
Driveshafts, speedo cable, shift and t-case linkage (that's the big stuff)
Driveshafts, speedo cable, shift and t-case linkage (that's the big stuff)
- Thread starter
- #25
Excellent, thanks.
Sorry but the dumb questions keep coming;one more for ya.
As far as the swap and install goes, am I bolting on the tranny and t-case to the new motor and reinstalling in the same fashion I removed it?
I appreciate your patience.
Excellent, thanks.
Sorry but the dumb questions keep coming;one more for ya.
As far as the swap and install goes, am I bolting on the tranny and t-case to the new motor and reinstalling in the same fashion I removed it?
I appreciate your patience.
Correct
Plus, install a new rear main seal on that motor if it doesnt have one
You can also flush the transmission and torque converter, replace the transmission fluid filter, and replace the oil in the t-case too
- Thread starter
- #27
Correct
Plus, install a new rear main seal on that motor if it doesnt have one
You can also flush the transmission and torque converter, replace the transmission fluid filter, and replace the oil in the t-case too
Thanks, that info really helps alot. Have a good weekend.
i have that same hoist and never had a problem removing a 2f/trans/tcase... only needed my 300# ballast on the back of the hoist... and it worked fine when just pulling the motor by itself...
Good luck...
Good luck...
Yep, used the HF 2 tonner my dang self. Got it on sale with the coupon for like $129.
Also used it to flip my frame back and forth by myself with some fanciful rigging...
What he said. My cruiser needs some love, I picked up a used 2F from a muddier, found a good deal on a 1/2 ton engine stand. Tried to put the big girl on the stand and watched the fan try to touch the ground as I lowered the cherry picker. So I gave the engine stand to a buddy that does Honda stuff. Then borrowed an over built engine stand w/a missing plate and made that from 1/2" plate and 3 1/2" OD tube. I also plan to use said over built stand to hold the 2F currently in my 60 while it gets the FE treatment.
- Thread starter
- #32
i have that same hoist and never had a problem removing a 2f/trans/tcase... only needed my 300# ballast on the back of the hoist... and it worked fine when just pulling the motor by itself...
Good luck...
So all I have to do is talk my mother in law into standing on the back of my hoist and I'll be good.
So all I have to do is talk my mother in law into standing on the back of my hoist and I'll be good.
That's cold, dude ...
I've always felt a lot safer with a 1 ton lift and a load leveler -- As an FYI, if you pull the Engine/trans/tcase as a unit, you will have to get it pretty high in the air to clear the front rad core support, so be aware of that when you decide how far out to have the arm. One time, I had the combo up, and the rear chain actually bent the engine hook and the back slipped off and the whole thing crashed into the engine bay - but thankfully, just a small dent in the wheel well. Now I hook the chain AROUND the rear hook - or use a load leveler and make sure the chain angle is not too severe.
Good luck.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #34
That's cold, dude ...
I've always felt a lot safer with a 1 ton lift and a load leveler -- As an FYI, if you pull the Engine/trans/tcase as a unit, you will have to get it pretty high in the air to clear the front rad core support, so be aware of that when you decide how far out to have the arm. One time, I had the combo up, and the rear chain actually bent the engine hook and the back slipped off and the whole thing crashed into the engine bay - but thankfully, just a small dent in the wheel well. Now I hook the chain AROUND the rear hood - or use a load leveler and make sure the chain angle is not too severe.
Good luck.
Actually love my mother in law but couldn't resist.
I planned on purchasing a leveler and tearing the front end down to the bumper. Thanks for the warning, I definitely don't want to crash and burn.
I just pulled my motor a few months back. I did not pull the whole combo. I split them at the bellhousing, and left the rest intact. It was done with just two of us. I had the engine stand but I just rented the lift from a local place. That thing was huge! It made the whole thing a lot easier. To split the motor at the bellhousing, we got the engine supported with the lift and pulled the motor mounts from the engine, then dropped it down a bit (watch the tranny mount though), and pulled the top two bellhousing bolts. The rest of the bolts were done before dropping the engine down. Like I was saying though, you have to watch your tranny mount, and want some sort of jack underneath it. Then level it back out, support the tranny at level, and pull it out like "normal".
- Thread starter
- #36
So you were able to reach the bell housing bolts because you removed the motor mounts and lowered the unit. It sounds like you have a manual trans, is that right? In an auto the torque converter bolts must also be removed which is another pain in the rear from what I can tell. Either way good info thanks for sharing it.
No I have a 88 FJ62 with the a440F. The TC stays connected to the flex plate and I removed it after I pulled the motor. I was careful to pull the motor straight out to clear the input shaft and then up and out with it...You are correct that I removed the motor mounts to lower the unit, but it was more like to tip the whole thing down.
If you are only swapping the motor there is no good reason to pull the tranny and tcase with the motor.
The top bolts on the auto are easily reached through the cover under the carpet. There is a lot less hassle leaving the tranny and tcase in place. As long as you pull the cover you can even leave the tranny crossmember in place. Do support the front of the tranny.
But still a good idea to pull the center of the radiator support, just pull the radiator and cross piece not the whole thing.
Tony
The top bolts on the auto are easily reached through the cover under the carpet. There is a lot less hassle leaving the tranny and tcase in place. As long as you pull the cover you can even leave the tranny crossmember in place. Do support the front of the tranny.
But still a good idea to pull the center of the radiator support, just pull the radiator and cross piece not the whole thing.
Tony
- Thread starter
- #40
Well it seems like there are 3 different ways to go and everyone likes it the way they did it.
1. Remove the motor-tranny and t-case as a unit.
2. Support the engine with the hoist and remove the crossmember while supporting the tranny from below, remove the motor mounts and drop the motor low enough to access the upper bell housing bolts from below, them remove just the motor.
3. Access the upper bell housing bolts through the access port under the carpet and remove the motor.
There seems to be no right or wrong way, just what worked best for each individual. Removing the motor, tranny and t-case seems like you should definitely have some help though, lotta weight.
If a professional Toyota wrench pulled the motor tranny and t-case every time to save time, I would think that would be the way to go. They want to get it done ASAP. However I am going to pull the carpet and check out the access just cause I have the tools and want to give it a look, it would be interesting to see if I can get those bell housing bolts loose.
Scott
Last edited:
